Fi Technical

i've sent a couple of emails but have gotten no reply so i figured i'd just make a thread about it. I'm going to need a recone for a loaded universal btl 12. also i've heard a little bit about tinsel slap problems. If subsonics are kept under control is it really a problem? Any possible performance difference between the d2 vs d1, amplification held aside? If not then d1 is my preference.

-How many spiders are there in the N2? -Can we have super Gauss in the N2 or is it not required/superseded no longer relevant? What are the benefits and is it worth it? -AA SMD is designed by FI right...price and power handling aside which is a better driver for loud daily? Unfortunately I live on the other side of the world and have no way to listen to either of these. Thanks

Alright im not realy sure about this so ill ask it here. I ordered 2 18in D2 Single stack recones with highxmax coils but there not flatwound. Is my order wrong? im under the assumption that these should be flatwound for better power handling and cooling.

Ok, I have an older BTL18 that was originally a D1 (written on the pole) and its in need of a recone. The owner got ahold of a D2 BTL18 kit, and I got the basket cleaned up and ready. It an older non-woven tinsel kit. But, I have it a snag...the D2 coils OD is noticeably larger than the D1. I have the kit shimmed and in the gap, but is this kit going to work??? Or will the coil hit the top plate when playing? Its a tight fit, but does have some space. Anyone make the D1 to D2 switch? Please reply soon...the owner is in need of a sub.

How much does the slug only, on the new BTL weigh? Also, how is the top plate and t-yoke manufactured? Is it milled, molded, cast?

Fully loaded BTL 15" w/ single saz1500d sounds like a whole bunch of sealed 10's. Except it goes lower and gets louder. The Police's greatest hits sounds great. I'm having some front stage issues, so I've been focusing on the bass... This BTL has great SQ! Better than my friends believed it would sound. Better than I expected too. I can't wait to add the other 1500d and 'glass the enclosure and also run a 100.4 on some CDT's.

I WAS WONDERING IF I COULD FIT 2 15'' BTL'S IN MY TRUNK. IF NOT COULD I FIT 2 12'S? I wanted to build a ported sub enclosure tuned to 32 hz. I ALSO WANTED TO KNOW IF THERE WAS SOMEONE I COULD PAY TO DESIGN ME A SUB ENCLOSURE? AND I ALSO WANTED TO KNOW IF HAVING 1 AMP POWER BOTH SUBS IS ANY BETTER THAN HAVING ONE AMP PER SUB (FOR EXAMPLE 2-2,000 WATT AMPS AS OPPOSED TO 1 4,000 WATT AMP? IF ANYONE COULD HELP ME OUT I WOULD APPRECIATE IT, THANKS, IM TERRIBLE AT MATH. My trunk mesurements are in the following link, I wasn't able to figure out how to post the picture. Trunk specs

I was wondering how much it would cost and if it could be done. I want to turn my 18" btl into a twelve. Can I just buy a basket and recone or will the motor need tooling? thanks for any help.

ok guys im gettin a box for 2 BTL's fully loaded...anyone have any ideas bout where to tune it to and how big of a box??? thanks

Finally got my hands back on some straight street jam material. AKA: Qs and a BTL UFO I've seen some UFO BTLs have a spacer in between basket and the motor. Is this just an adapter for basket patterns or is it a beneficial option to the sub? Excited for my new Fi experience and so is the wife =]

I tried to get the most port area possible using an "L" slot-port. The box is 39"x18"x18". I wasn't paying attention to this when I designed (threw together) the box. Fi recommends 12-16 square inches of port for every cubic foot of interior volume. 48-64 I have 74.25 square inches of port and 44" length giving me a tuning freq of 31hz. And here's my question, should I (could I) do something (short of taking the box apart) to reduce port area, and raise tuning? Specifically, can I cut another 3/4MDF piece to fit snuggly in the port to bring the width from 5.4 to 3.75...or similar?

Howdy, I've been in the planning stages on this for a while and I think I've got it figured out. I'm going for 4 x BTL 12's Fully loaded in this wall: The specs are like this: 19.69 cubes gross 16 cubes net (Subs and Ports removed) 4 cubes per sub Tuned to 32hz with 266.875 sq. in. of port I'd like to run dual 2 ohm BTL's and have each one off of a Orion HCCA-D5000 so roughly 2500 watts RMS per sub (10k total). I'm planning to run all Knu Konceptz 1/0 wire with multiple runs to a battery bank of 6 Kinetik HC2400's in the trunk and 2 200 amp alts. So my question is, do these specs look good for the subs and such?

I currently have a fi btl 15 fully loaded and i planed on using knu konceptz 8 gauge speaker wire but when i tried to wire the sub up the wires were too big haha...so is there anyway i can make the wires fit ive looked at banana clips and wire reducers but i dont know what to use and if it will distort or loose power

I'm getting a Fi btl 15", could I please get some suggestions on a variety of amps i could use to push it . Thanks in advance

hi guys. i was just wondering if anyone has a BTL18 in their trunk? i will be looking for a new or used car this weekend, and i want to be able to fit a decent sized box in the trunk. i really don't want to go with a hatchback, van or SUV right now i have a 2.8 cubic foot box with a fosgate t115d4 and its not loud enough for me. i will be ordering a 15 or 18 inch BTL18 before the end of the month. i want a 5 to 8 cubic foot enclosure to fit.

So im designing an enclosure for my btl thats coming in for my crew cab truck thats going to sit on top of the seat and im not sure what the best orientation for the sub and port are for trucks for the most spl. Is it sub forward port up? Sub up port up? Heres one design that i put together, about 7.75 cubes net after displacement, 32 hz, the port will be facing up and sub forward. Are there any design flaws that you guys can see with the port? Is there enough space between the end of the port and the back wall of the box? Any other recommendations or comments?

The other nite we were changin the box my fi's are in and the drill slipped and went through the rubber on the subwoofer.. He said if we put rtv silicone on the inside and outside of the cut it would be ok but Im not sure any help would be good

everyone has proclaimed the Fi as the sub to own im wondering if there are any build pics that you can release to the public i.e. ( showing the differance between Q/Bl/Btl/Btl^ loadded ) motors, spiders, coils, and how the back plates are put together etc etc etc i like the way they look just curious

Ok I am about 10-11 months from buying a 2009 Mini Cooper S (waiting because I will pay cash) so I have started my plan for the low end. I have a 10" BL on the way and plan to run it of of a Fosgate 25 to life Punch 150 (birthsheet states >800w rms) I want to keep the box small but want good bottom end I am looking at around .5- .7 ft^ Has anyone run the BL in a small box like that? Any problems or chalenges? I can go larger if need be as the car will not be a grocery chaser but my commuter car BUT I want to still have space in the tiny trunk area for the times the wife and I need to put something back there. As you can see I have time to change the plans but the BL is…

Is it that hard? How long would it usually take?

building a normal box but using two layers of 3/4 mdf all around, which way would be the strongest? i know the first would be the easiest with less cutting, but would number 2 be so much stronger that i should definetly go with that method? Number 1 Number 2 any opinions are appreciated!

so im looking to build a new box for the blow through in my truck. trying to think of some new designs to make it interesting. is there any benefit to having the subs angle towards eachother? i was thinking having them facing eachother down the center with plexi on each end so you can see the inside. thoughts?

I plan on building the enclosure per Fi's specs of 1.5 ft @33hz. The dimensions I have come up with is 14.5" x 14.5" x 18" using3/4" MDF this gives me 1.4937ft after subtracting the woofer and material displacement. I can add to the 14.5" sections of the enclosure if need be to account for port displacement. I'm not familiar with how to calculate port displacement though so I'll need some help on that as well. I planned on mounting the sub on the 14.5" X 18" side and would also prefer to have the port on that side as well. I just want to make sure that I get this right. I'm looking for maximum SQ but still want to have good output. It will be powered by 550w/rms in a PT …

hey guys .. im looking at building my own enclosure for my BTL 18" and was wondering whats the minimum cubic feet as i have a limited area to work with Thanks

Hello again hey everyone i am trying to built my box for 2 18" fully loaded dual 2ohm btl's...I am either running 2 md-3d amps (us amps ) 2000rms at 1ohm or hifonics brutus amp (not sure model number) it does 2000rms @1ohm ...and i want to have the box @ 5cu per side tuned at 32hrzt that seems to be a good spot for daily ground pounder but not sure about port size the box is going in a 99 yukon so room isnt a issue...please help thanks agian