Fi Technical

I am very curious on this one. About how tall would a box have to be to fit a 18" BTL forward facing in it. I am curious cause I wonder if I can get it in the bed of my truck or not. I don't think I can, but am curious none-the-less. Thanks

Hi, I am missing the spaced spider option, what happend to this? Is this option still avalible?

I notice that on the Fi website that u have options that u can add to your sub before purchase. What does these options mean? Flatwind coil? Copper Coil? and BP Power? Can i purchase this sub without this stuff. If i dont then how will the sub perform in daily uses? Oh yea, is there a big difference in hard hitting bass with the SSD 15 and the Q 15? Thanks.

i finally found a box to fit my beautiful babies! i just need to know whether to buy it or not. heres the catch. according to fi standards: Q 12

Am using two Q 15s but in to seperate cambers that are in 2.9-3.0 cuft enclosures after all displacement, is this too small?. Would it be better to use a single or a dual camber? I was told that the single would hit harder. What do you guys think? The box is tune to 30Hz using a port that is 2 X 14 and 16.75 inches long. Am still in da building stages so i can change some things just alittle if its necessary.

i want to build a new enlosure for my 18 btl. ive never done any bandpass box before and now id like to try it. do you have any suggestions or a website were i can find a good instruction how to build a 6th order bandpass (calculator)? i have a suv and ~10 cft of space.

I was driving around and all of a sudden my btl quit. I have tried to rewire it using just one voic coil and noluck it wont even turn on... Any idea?

I own a BL and am buying an SP4. will this box design work perfectly for the SP4 and well enough for the BL? did i screw up on anything? at the bottom of my port i have bracing crossing it, will this be an issue? should the port be fully open down to the bottom of the box? i could not find any great info on port area for the SP4 so im sitting a bit over the 16 multiplier right now. i was thinking of adding a bit of that fluff to the box to make the sub feel it was in an enclosure closer to 8 cubic; is this a good idea? im going for SQ at high volume, or at least as much SQ as the SP4 can give me. what should i change, all opinions welcome. thank you. http://imgur.…

Can someone post a blue print of a ported box for this. my friend said someone was going to build me one for the past month and nothing has happen yet so i figured if someone could just post a blue print i could build it my self i was looking for something tuned around 33 hz. can someone get me dimensions and all that good stuff. thanks for hepling.

Hey guys!!! So I am currently running a box built from Dave the box guy. Its 2.5 cubes after displacement, tuned at 35 hz. I have a the ssd with flatwound and bp power, a 2010 model. Anyway, I LOVE the way this thing sounds. But I got to thinking.. I know that Fi Recommends the max ported box space to be 2.5 cubes, and thats what I run. But I am still a novice, and got curious about mechanical handling... Would running this at 1000 watts rms daily (MB Quart ONX 1500.D amp) be okay to do? Cuz thats what I am running, with the amp tuned as well. Just wanted to make sure that may check out okay, or do I need to reduce my amps tuning? Thanks guys! -Chance

Right now i have my 2 Q 12's in a 5^ft @ 33hz with 71sqin of port box. I was wondering if I built another box same size and tuning(might tune to 32hz) but with 80sqin of port would i notice any difference in sound?

I have an older RE HC 15 with the 4 spoke basket dual 2 ohm version and need a re cone kit for it, it final blew about 2 weeks ago. I have been trying to to contact Fi via email with no response. Was wondering if anyone knew which recone kit on their web site is the correct one and will fit on the HC motor and wanted to get it upgrade if possible and add a need basket as well? Can anyone help me ?

I have always done sealed boxes before and I ordered a 10 inch dual 2 ohm bl and am struggling with the port dimensions. Different programs I use come up with different numbers. The recommended dimensions are 1.2 cuft with 15 inches of port. I am assuming thats 15 square inches. I have the room for width of 16 inches wide by 13 inches tall and 19 inches deep outside dimensions. Which according to my calculations using 3/4 inch wood is 1.97 cuft. But I only need 1.2 cuft. The 13 inches is the most important measurement. I don't want to go higher or lower than that. The depth of 19 inches is what I want to shrink the most and I only want to go 15 inches wide at the n…

I have 2 loaded btl 12s that Im going to be running a T4k on. I want to use aero ports but the only way that I can get enough port area is to go a bigger than the recommended 2.5ft3. I may have to go with something like 2.7-2.9ft3.....is this ok for daily usage? Or will it hurt the woofer? I see on the Fi site that u shouldnt go any higher than 3ft3. Id be below that but they say 2.5ft3 on this site?

I'm currently trying to design an enclosure for 3 Bl 10's i've got 1.85cu.ft of volume (total), with displacement. What sort of port area and length would i be looking at. Also, i can increase the volume slightly, as that is with 1inch MDF

As you know this is my setup (I just posted it for people who didnt know) SUB:(1) 18'' Fi.BTL (Fully Loaded) D2,cooling,hixm coil,induct heat ring,daily AMP:(1) AudioQue 3500D (3500 Rms @ 1 Ohm!! & BTL's are recommended @ 2000 Rms) [is the amp good or what?] its getting the whole 3500 rms http://www.audioque.com/aq/AQ3500D.htm http://www.audioque.com/aq/images/AQ3500D/AQ3500Dguts.jpg (4):Screws for terminals (Better solid connection no leaks) Enclosure:(1):[Ported] 6 Cuft. (After displacemant) Tuned to 32hz. (MAYBE) 3/4 MDF (1):PAC 200amp Battery Isolator (3):300amp Iraggi HO Alternators 2 Kinetik HC 2400 Batts. Big 3 done (beefing up my electrical system) etc. Al…

I am currently waiting on my q12 dual 2 to arrive, and it is going in my work van (E-150) Passenger Converted to cargo. I have a two fold question I would like it if the box were no more then 15" front to back considering the sub facing front. My current setup has the sub firing into the back of the drivers seat as this is where it is the most protected and less likely to be damaged. I wouldn't mind using the ported box cutsheet for a Q12 as shown but I would have to put legs on the "face" and set it up so it was downfiring at the floor in order be able to carry the amount of tools/cabinets I typically do. (I am a cabinet maker so I can build anything you can imagine …

Scott suggested that I do a 0.47 cu ft box. I'm having trouble finding the right dimensions. Can anyone help?

Well just in the past few days I have noticed that my sub was not working. Me being the lazy person that I am put it off for a while assuming that just a connection was loose. Yesterday I finally got around to taking a look and all the connections outside of the box looked fine. The amp (sae-1000D) looked to be working fine, but no movement or sound from the sub. With the music playing I pushed the cone a little and then it made a little effort but once I moved my hand away it did nothing. This was initially, but today the sub does nothing at all, even when I push on it. Still not sure if the amp could be damaged, I connected another sub that I had laying around and…

Im building an enclosure for 2 12 BLs with 2500w RMS and I want to put a window in the back, Im not sure what the best material to use is, Ive heard different things but it seems my two options are 3/4inch Plexiglass or 1/2inch Lexan... Which is better?

I just got a 12 Q D2 with BP power hooked up with a JL 500/1. in a sealed 1.5(20*13*15.5) after sub displacement. is the amp to little for the sub? i set the amp to JL specs. and then i get clipping. i've used the same amp on others subs and get better sound and more power out of it. but with ported boxes using the same JL specs. how should i set it with a sealed box?

I have a fi q 12. I didnt choose the high qts option because i had planned for a ported box, but ported is wayy to big for my little trunk lol Would it matter if i put the sub, without the high qts, in a sealed box? If it matters, im going to put it in the smallest bOx possible. I dont plan on running the sub to the max, just some extra bass for daily driving. Also, i hate rattling, so you can bet i wont run it any where near max output.

Hello all. I'm getting ready to purchase a Fi Q 12 and a Candence TXA-1000d amp and I was wondering what the optimum enclosure would be for my application. I drive a 97 2dr Exploder, and listen to rock/metal.......lotso heavy stuff. I want the sub to sound as clear as possible when hitting the bass lines and bass drum and still have a nice thump too. So, if anyone has any ideas for specs for me that would be frickin' fantastic! Thanks, Mo

This is my first time to mount a sub (have to learn sometime, eh?), so bare with me. The screw holes, when i look through them, i see the foam/rubber that extends from the surround. If i stretch the circle with the screw holes, i can barely get past the outer rim of the basket; making it impossible to screw the opposite side in. SO my question is, how exactly do i screw (or bolt, undecided) the thing in? I know to pilot/predrill my holes, its just i dont know how to safely do it.

Looking for some help designing a new box for my sub. I listen to a lot of rock/metal, but I do like rap and would like to be pretty loud. Any help with sub placement, volume, what to tune it to would be great. also it is in a blazer. As of now its in a sealed box around 2.6 cube with a Hifonics 1208d and i know it has so much more potential. Thanks and if any other info is need please let me know