Fi Technical

Good morning to all. Ok, have a build question for the forum. I'm looking to get an 18" BTL soon and was curious as to what would sound the best in regards to sub direction. Room is not an issue as I have an SUV. I'd like to take a poll and get opinions on why you chose the following: 1.Sub up to roof and port to back of vehicle 2.Sub forward to driver and port to back of vehicle 3.Sub to back of vehicle and port to back of vehicle 4.Sub forward to driver and port forward to driver 5.Sub up to roof and port up to roof I'm really looking for ground punding and earthquaking when I want the sub to perform, yet sound decent with pop music as well. I have a broad range of mus…

for some strange reason my system hits the hardest when my box is angled like this in my trunk.. Less rattles and everything its almost as if my car pressurizes itself and it doesn't rattle or I just don't hear it..

Hey, i recently built a box for my 2 Fi X 12's, it is a ported wedge box 4.37 cuft after port and sub displacements. I have a 4 inch ,"precision port", flare port and is 6 inches deep. The problem is that the sub closer to the port moves more and im thinking that i could get more out of the subs if they both had the same movement. A little confused.. i was told that it would be louder if i would have divided the box and but two separate ports, one on each side rather than one on the passenger side. By the way i have them on a Autotek MM1000.1D

hi i wanted to know if there is a downside to using an N2 recone on a ufo btl, because i have a friend with 2 recones and have no use for them and i needed recone. would they work?

Im ordering a 15 Q soon and am going to start on my box for it. I was messing with re box calculator and having a few problems getting the right size, i have limited space in the trunk of my civic. I am going to run it ported at around 32hz and would like to get as much cubic feet as i can out of my trunk, any help would be appreciated. Box can not be wider than 34 inches, can not be taller than 16 inches, and can not be deeper than 18 inches, any help would be a appreciated. The cubic feet part is easy to me but the whole port part and how long the port should be is confusing to me. thanks Also on the re box calculator site which number do i use to figure out the 12-16 s…

Well I am gonna be going for my first recone attempt. It will be a BTL. I am feeling pretty confident but have a couple of questions. First thing How do I properly clean all the excess stuff from the original BTL. Like the surround on the basket and where the spider is glued down at. I was told just a heat gun to get it loosen up so I can just pull it all off? Second I hear alot of people talk about the "Triple joint" and how well that is glued. What is the triple joint? Also I am confused on how to properly "shim" it. Is it that the shim alligns it properly so that it doesnt rub? If so that means the paper shim is only making like a hairline gap? And wheres the best pl…

I want something that will flex glass but that i can us daily. i was sold on the btl 18" but will it handle everyday abuse? Any help would be great thanks

Just ordered my 15" SSD and cant wait for it to arrive. Now on to buying an amp for this little beast. It will be going into a 2008 Nissan Frontier 4.0L V6, enclosed in a 4.2cf. Ground Shaker box. My main concern is how much this sub can handle. Its the Dual 1 Ohm version along the flat wind coil option which Ive heard ups the power handling. Ive been looking around for an amp, Was looking at the Kicker zx1000.1 which puts out about 1100-1200W RMS, the MTX Xthunder X1000D, and the Alpine MRP M1000 all puting out similar rms W (1000-1200). I would like to go with the MTX for the reason that it is on sale for $269 on sonic. Ill include a product list below along with the mo…

I just got my box for my 2 18's Q's but i dont like the way it sounds, it's in my explorer , he tuned it to 30hz in a 13 cubic ft. box, its all high bass. i want a groundshaker. how many hz should i tune it to??

Got my car back from the dealer service dept. and my 10" rockford T2 was fried. Rockford doesn't offer a recone and the parts distributor that they referred me to says they have a really long back order on parts. I was wondering if it's possible to do anything with it? It was a pretty decent driver, and i would hate to just throw it away if there is an alternative. thanks!

Well yeh just like the title says i need some tinsels for a d1 Fully loaded BTL. I emailed a few days ago and but never got a reply. How much would they be shipped to 33027 Fl by sunday if possible

DO SSD 15 WORK SEALED I HAVE2 AND I WANT 2 GO SEALED HAS ANYONE TRIED THEM IN A SEALED ENCLOSURE YET? WHAT WOULD BE A GOOD AMP FOR THE PAIR

Been debatin on 3 10" bls or 1 15" BTL off of 4Kw. I'm thinkin about goin with 1 15" BTL so i got some questions. What options do i need exactly for the following scenario? - It's for daily, tuned to 33hz, running off of 4kw of power. No SPL but i will be playing, sometimes, bass tracks for show off purposes. Absolutely no clipping guaranteed. Let me know if this is correct or if i should change\add something- Cooling, HIXMcoil, 3rd mag(do i need?), Daily. Can the BTL take 4KW daily? I know Meade does it but is it still safe in Fi's eyes? And i would like a discussion on the cooling option. It states not to get it if used for SPL. Can someone please define what specifi…

Are there any 3D designing software to design a custom subwoofers box? thanks -JJ

hi there i need some help with a box design. i plan on sealling off the trunk in my civic. i have a fully loaded btl. the box in it pounds now on highs. its a dual ported box not sure if its effecting more or less out put of the sub or not just wondering if a single ported box will be different its tuned at 35hz. i have a little over 5 cubes. i am looking for a single ported design with both the sub and the port firing forward. i plan on also doing competitions with this setup. i just got a new alternator coming and 1/0 guage wire. i am going to get a kinetics 16 volt battery or two depending on if i need it. but what box design would you recommend for spl and bass race.l…

Ok I read the options page and I understand it pretty well. My question is I know I need to get one of the cooling options on the sub but which one? The sub will be used for daily. If I go with cooling, the strength of the motor will be reduced but if I g with just teh p/chamfer option, will it be enough to keep things under control? I really don't want to loose any structural integrity inside the motor if I don't have to. And the inner heat sink? I don't quite understand that one what is it for, and do I need it? So the options that I think I need are: p/chamfer, hi xmax coil, daily, universal? Would these options be what Ineed for daily 2k+ rms? thanks

Is 324sq in per sub too large for a striclty SPL enclsure using 4 Fi BTL 18's in a 32cu ft. box

Hey guys, Mr. Noob with here with another question again.......I am putting in binding posts to replace the terminal cups in my sub box cuz all my wiring is 8 gauge and the cups do not accomadate 8g wire. Plus I always go "OVERKILL" for peace of mind. When talking to Mike of Zenclosures(guy that made my box and he's GREAT guy like Scott is by the way), he said I could just use silicone to seal the new posts. I've seen people here talk about caulking so which is better? Or is silicone adequate? Enquiring minds want to know????????????????

I just hooked up my brand new fi ssd 12 dual 1 ohm sub and hooked it up to a kicker zx750.1 amp and put it in a 2.5 cu ft box tuned to 33 hz. i turned the gain 1/2 way and bass boost to 9db. When i turn the head unit up the sub starts to smell like its burning glue or something. any ideas?

Hi, I found another thread where FI can recone a 3hp to a 18" for me, I found the price. I'm just curious as to what soft parts would be used to recone(as in what lines it would come from) or what parts in general(how many spiders etc, stiffness.) And do you beleive that the reconed 3hp would be good for 2500rms daily?? thanks, Joe I need the end load to be 2 ohm..so either 4 ohm dvc, or 1 ohm dvc.

im running 2 bl 18s off 2 saz-1500ds now, subs up, port back. I got guy that wants to buy my subs possibly, so im looking at other options. How would 4 ssd18's take the 2 saz-1500ds? Would they get enough power? thanks

i've sent a couple of emails but have gotten no reply so i figured i'd just make a thread about it. I'm going to need a recone for a loaded universal btl 12. also i've heard a little bit about tinsel slap problems. If subsonics are kept under control is it really a problem? Any possible performance difference between the d2 vs d1, amplification held aside? If not then d1 is my preference.

ok so im wanting to upgrade from a 12 btl to a 15 btl..and my question is do i have enough room. i have this to work with......24 tall 42 wide 19 deep..thanks for the help

Hey guys i have a couple of questions, i got a saz1500d, and i am going to be ordering a 15q, should i run the sub at 2 ohms (800watts rms) or 1 ohm (1500rms)? Right now i only have 4 ga running to the back, will that be okay if i run it at 1ohms or should i stick with 2 ohms, I am going to run the most likely sealed in a 2.5 cu ft box. i have a 09 toyota corolla, not that much trunk space, or will it sound better in a 3 cu ft box ported? If you guys have any other helpful tips please let me know. Thanks

Hello all. my enclosure will be finished soon.. like i haven't a lot of space in my CLK trunk,i have made a 3.6 cu ft @ 33hz box(after port and diplacement... 55 square for the port area). So do you think it's good for daily? (no SPL competitions)... low will be good? good SQ ? value for the subsonic? I have ordered my amp, a "little" Digital Designs Z1 this beast give 4000-4500w/1ohm at 12v.. my new batt is a NSB90(enough for the Z1) give me your ideas,pronostics i'll be back with a video soooooonnnnnnnnnn... ps:Scott,like you have told me,i have dropped my car ....2inch with the total weight