Fi Technical
2,190 topics in this forum
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So there is someone selling a blown 15" icon and i was thinking of picking it up. I was wondering if I could recone it with Q coils and put it in a 3 cu fu. @ 32 Hz? Would this work or am i just thinking to crazy? also how much would a 15" Q recone cost to 94803? thanks
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I have been told the 12 ssd weighs 25 pounds, i was curious what does a stock 12" Q weigh? Just curious because i might get one if i can sell my 2 12" HCCA's old schools.
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I have the basics for this box already, but I need to know if I need any bracing (if so, what kind) or any other tweaking. Also the sub is facing up, does it matter where I place the sub? (closest to the port opening or furthest away) Box is 24x30x15.5 Port Width is 3.9" Volume a little under 4^3 (after displacement) Tuned a bit above 30hz Thanks
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Hello, there are two Fi Q10d2 and the amplifier DC 5.0K, in 0,5 Ohms, Xs power d1200+d3400 accumulators (44Ah and 65Ah). Advise the optimum volume and the port area under this system? Palaniry to begin with 48 liters pure and port in 250 squares, tune to of 36-38 Hz and reducing to have a look at changes. The car, Ford Focus 2 a hatch-back, the purpose to receive is more than figures on music. Thanks in advance for councils and comments. I am sorry for my English))
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How is this for 2 15 bl's? http://www.subwoofertools.com/forum/ported...mp;Fs=&CE=0
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Hello, I am trying to find designs for a single FI SSD 12 inch ported subwoofer box. I want 2 cubic feet tuned @33hz. I can only find plans for 2 SSD subs in a box. Any help would be great!
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not sure if this is the right spot to ask, but would 2 stock SSD's be ok on an AQ2200D?
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Hi. Im from Romania and i bought 8 or 9 months ago a FI Q 12''. As far as i know there are 2 speakers sent in Romania A FI Q 12 AND A 15. OK i have a little big problem with my fi q 12 sub. the spider has unsticked , or broked , from the center of VC or how is called in english and that makes the sub scratch if i play music. i stopped the music since that day cuz even if i slowly hit with my finger the surface is does pack pack !!! oufull sound. and... i expected more from Fi ... i never tought it will broke. by the way the voice coils are intact. tHE power that the sub recieved was 900 w/ 1 ohm . thanks ... i hope u can help me. http://img76.imageshack.us/my.php?image…
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I was wondering if 11.25 net tuned to 31hz and 166.25 square inches of port is too much for 4 fully loaded 12 inch BL subs running off of 6,000 watts of power?
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WHICH DESIGN WOULD BE BETTER THE SUBS SHOOTING UP WITH THE PORT AT THE BOTTOM SHOOTING BACK, OR SUBS AND PORT FACING THE SAME DIRECTION.
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well as u can see i have a kicker zx1000.1 rated at 1258 watts. which i do not have installed in my car yet which is an 02' dodge stratus R/T coupe, and i think it hase either a 85amp alt or a 90 amp alt. And im also goin to be buying a 15" BL w/ the p chamfer i already have the big3 upgrade done with elemental designs 1/0 gauge wire will i have to consider on upgrading the alternator?? ive looked all over the net, and i just cannot find one for my car, so i need some help on that IF i do NEED to upgrade and wat about mabe a battey or 2?? thanks
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I had a box designed by chris at fishercustoms, and here is what he came up with: The total Net volume came out to be 1.8cu ft exactly, a 1.74" x 14" port tuned to 33hz, 13.53 sq in of port per cu ft, and I have a couple questions: 1. Is that too small for a 12" Fi Q? They do recommend a minimum of 1.8, but i'm worried this box won't make it sound good because the net volume is too small. 2. What happens if the box is too small? 3. Whats the difference between having a larger box versus a smaller box? Like having a 2.2 versus 1.8? Most of the videos I see online of this sub have a box larger than 2.2 cu ft, and their car is basically falling apart. Any help would be gr…
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Allright i got my btl in and the dustcap got hot really fast and i mean hot hot i have 8ga wire running to the speaker and 1/0 ga ran to my optima back to my kinetik 2400 and ran it full tilt and this happend its a duel 1 fully loaded and it is in series to make it a 2 ohm load the amp is a Rockford Fosgate t2500.1bd everything seems to be fine i mean i have not "Broken" it in yet..need some help does it matter which terminal i use to run series?
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I have 4 18 inch fully loaded BTLs that I will use for a daily driver. Can anyone help with how many cubic feet each sub should get? I want a ported box and will power them with 2 jbl a6000 amps. The manual says 5- 8 cubic feet but what size should i go with?
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How well will this enclosure work for an Fi Q 10" sub. B
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Hi, i've been passive for a few months right now. My last system was one 15 btl dual 2 on two RF t20001bds @ 2 ohms with few kinetiks and 300 amp alt. I think of adding another btl 15 but keep the amps, one btl strapped to 1 ohm and one t20001 @ 1 ohms per sub. Do you think this would hit harder or should i just recone the current btl to dual 1 to use the full power of the amps.... Patrick
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I'm needing some advice on a box design for a 18" btl (old style) going in the back of a 1996 gmc suburban. Its a daily driver (no competitions) and Im looking for decent sound quality while hitting low and hard. I listen to mostly rap music and a little r & b. Not sure which way I should face the sub or the port or any of the box details to best suit my needs. Space should not be a issue since its going in suburban. Here are some other details about the install. Amp: Memphis 16-2000d (old school mojo) Components: 2 sets of CDT CL-61A w/ a kicker zx200.2 amp Electrical: 200 HO alternator and 2 yellow tops. 1/0 monster cable everywhere Head Unit: Jensen vm9411x (Yes …
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Ok I am about 10-11 months from buying a 2009 Mini Cooper S (waiting because I will pay cash) so I have started my plan for the low end. I have a 10" BL on the way and plan to run it of of a Fosgate 25 to life Punch 150 (birthsheet states >800w rms) I want to keep the box small but want good bottom end I am looking at around .5- .7 ft^ Has anyone run the BL in a small box like that? Any problems or chalenges? I can go larger if need be as the car will not be a grocery chaser but my commuter car BUT I want to still have space in the tiny trunk area for the times the wife and I need to put something back there. As you can see I have time to change the plans but the BL is…
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For my Alero trunk I'm eventually going to buy a BTL 18 D2 with daily/all options. This is the cheapest & loudest daily setup I can think of and I've drawn up a shizload of boxes. I want lots of bass but don't want to shell out for a huge amp, alt, and batts. Power will be maximum 2000-2200 watts @ 1ohm unless I can borrow a huge amp for burps if having 1 fully charged battery will git-r-done. I will buy 1 battery and upgrade the alt if I have to but nothing crazy. RE Enclosure Calculator 1" MDF with 1" double baffle and no other bracing besides rabbit joints which I still am not sure if to use .25". 37 width x 28.72 depth (29.72 with baffle) x 20.5 height Displacemen…
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hello I would like a design for a single with dimensions of 17H, 40W , & 18D Mmaybe alll the WAY to 22 but sub will be to close to trunk wall ... on you tube thers a design double port the guy has It on a civic very nice.oh and tuned to 33 to 35
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which of the old 3 slug options were cosidered basically universal, D1 or D2. i bought my btl from teampsi on ca.com, on his ad he said its a D1 so its basically universal. i have read else where that the D2 were the ones considered universal. can anyone clear this up? im about to order a recone, and i want D2's but i want to make sure it will fit! thanks fellas
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I've seen where eveyone says speaker terminals suck, so whats the best one to use? And if its bolt terminal, do i just put a hole in the mdf and put a 3/8" bolt through it? How do i hook the wires to it on each side? I realize this is probably about as noob as it gets too, but i mentioned big 3 to one of the big 'audio' shops around here, and they looked at me like i was an idiot for thinking there was such a thing (i'm saying this just to show you i have noone to learn from in the local area haha). Thanks
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So, I've got a question regarding the power handling capability of the X series 15" sub. I'm building a Tapped Horn that's going to load the sub down at 25hz and 60hz. I am expecting to see maybe 5mm excursion @ 400 watts at those two frequencies with a max excursion of 14mm @ 30Hz. My question would be, in your guys' opinion, will I burn up the VC because there won't be enough motion to cool the coil off? This whole project is a bit of a technical practical to see how low and loud I can go. The tapped horn should give me excellent low end extension into ~20Hz and keep the coil in the gap @ 400watts. Just wanted your guys' opinion on the power handing capacity. Thank…
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