Fi Technical

How loud will his be, haha. No but seriously - I was considering purchasing the 6000D because i can get one for only $100 more than the 4000D. I was going to use the 4000D for these 3 10s but hey, why not go with this one, you know? I am not going to deliver that much power to these subs, that is the point to this topic because i will not have the battery power to support the 6000ds potential. The question pertains to the BL's cooling option- Fi says as long as you do not burp the subs then the cooling option is fine for daily. I am planning on setting the amp up to output a real 4,500w(peak spikes) as if i were to have no voltage loss. Sometimes i show off setups usi…

Obviously, you can already tell I am major noob at all this, but learning. I am getting the 4 15" BL's when I save up enough to do everything. What I need to know is what Ohm do I need to pick for the BL's. I have yet to get a amp. I was hoping to run 2 amps, maybe the Kicker 2500.1, but not sure. Any and all info on what Ohm setting and amp I should get would make my day better. Thanks.

yea guys..umm ive already done the big 3..no biggie...and ive got a rebuilt alt puttin out 300 amps........but i was wonderin what would be the least and optimum output from an alt if im going to be runnin 2 fi bls..18s ..thnx

Ok in 2007 i bought 2 fully loaded 18bls. and had them in my 95 deville. but now i have a 03 and the trunk is a little smaller. right i just have one in with a 6. 75 ft3 box tuned to 32hz. well my other one is just sitting in my room wanting to be build. Ive blown both of them but reconed one couple months ago. but i want to put both in my 03 .the max size in my trunk is 41x40x15. if i keep it at 32 hz the ft3 will be 7.55, i know many will say that would be way small for 2 18s but i already got might as well just make a new box and put it in. My question is would both of my 18s at 7.55 ft3 be louder then just one at 6.75 ft3?

Hi, have my new car since a few days now, a 08 BMW 330xd :bigclap: :bigclap: :bigclap: But this time i just want a lil boombox in the panel of my trunk. I just ordered a 10 inch Fi SSD Dual 2 Ohms today and expect it by the end of the week... I wanna put it in a sealed enclosured like this finished looks like this I measured about 0.5-0.6 cu ft What you think, will this work fine?? And it gets about 900 RMS

Just Got my car finally! OMG! YES finally.... ffs Vauxhall (Opel) Corsa Sxi Twinport 3 Dr it is... now i have an Fi Q 15" which im going to go sealed and will be making a new enclosure in the workshop soon, thats sorted, going to get my self a sundown 1000 amp.. now i was just wondering about wiring products, http://www.knukonceptz.co.uk/productDetail...?prodID=KLM-AK0 http://www.knukonceptz.co.uk/productDetail...?prodID=KAR2-6M http://www.knukonceptz.co.uk/productDetail...rodID=KAR124BLS http://www.knukonceptz.co.uk/productDetail.cfm?prodID=ANL200 and some form of terminal cup for box i just want to know if this will/should cover everything to get my sub up and pumping …

So, I've got a question regarding the power handling capability of the X series 15" sub. I'm building a Tapped Horn that's going to load the sub down at 25hz and 60hz. I am expecting to see maybe 5mm excursion @ 400 watts at those two frequencies with a max excursion of 14mm @ 30Hz. My question would be, in your guys' opinion, will I burn up the VC because there won't be enough motion to cool the coil off? This whole project is a bit of a technical practical to see how low and loud I can go. The tapped horn should give me excellent low end extension into ~20Hz and keep the coil in the gap @ 400watts. Just wanted your guys' opinion on the power handing capacity. Thank…

Well here it is. A freind got a new 18inch btl, and he was throughing out his 10. I figure, since I have some left over LN from a computer cool, I would design a box and have LN cooling the sub. Yes this will involve some major work on modifying the sub. This ever been done ?, I just want to run 8000rms to it. And not have er burn. This is my first post aswell, and ill be ordering some subs later on . I figure if I vaporize the LN and have blowing through the sub, that it atleast not kill it for 10 seconds of playing. Crazy or worth a experiment ?

How much power are you guys running to your SSD's, optioned out, or not.

I want to buy Q 10's. I am looking at ported box specs and there is a pretty wide range. I am looking for flat response and good SQ with a punch. I listen to metal and rap mostly depending on the day. They will each get 1000 watts in the trunk of Grand Prix. i was looking to do 28.75 sq inches of port for both, will that be enough, or will i benefit from upping it to 31.625

I'm looking for someone to build me the box specified in the "BTL Cut sheets" thread. I have the Fully loaded 12" (2010) model BTL sub. I would like to know how much it would cost (both for the box and shipping). And I like to find someone who has made these before and knows what they are doing. If you can show me pics of your previous work that would be great. I would prefer it if you had a PayPal account as well. If there is anything you need to know from me, let me know. Thanks for any replies.

hey all, i am looking to build a 4th order wall setup in my 88 suburban with 4 BTL UFO pie slug 18s, they will have xmax coils and rig is dedicated SPL/demo. i would really love to find out what sealed size i need to base my wall off. since i want the bandwidth i am thinking 2:1 ratio. i have a calculated 100cf3 to work with so space is a plenty.. (50.25w x38t x91l) subs will be inverted (motor showing) all on the back wall, loading wall port will be drivers side. untill i find a sealed cf size per sub i really cant do a thing... ready to start buying lumber and resin

any box builders out there wondering how much you charge for a box for 2 18 BTL FL, flared port, 13ply birch, 5-6 cu a piece shared chamber. dimensions would be 52 width x 20 depth x 25 height that would be my max dimensions give or take a few in. Another guy (Ryan Wallace aka Belunt from CAJ.com) was suppose to build me a box, but i cant get in touch with him now, and im trying to get a refund. but someone let me know something. thanks

I have (4) N2 15s walled in my car. They've been installed for a couple months now and have been ripping my head off daily. Doing a 155 outlaw at 28hz! Anyways, today I seemingly lost a coil on one sub. No smoke or anything of that nature, just for some reason one coil on one sub is done for. Took the sub out and the voice coil looks fresh as can be. The other coil on the sub also reads out just fine. All of my other subs are also perfectly fine. Really have no idea what the hell happened. Subs were bought brand new from Fi of course. Can or would this be fixed under warranty? I'd really like to get this taken care of before the comp season starts heating up here.

since I've been frequenting this forum more, I have noticed there is a significant number of issues with the Q line. I'm guessing just coincidence? Or is there a ryme or reason?

I have been building my brothers blazer for stereo competition. I have the build in the build log area under "walling an s-10 blazer". The system is Four MA Audio 802sx amps (about 2500 watts RMS) to four 15inch fully loaded BLs with the SPL option and they are dual one ohm. The amps are then running at 1/2 ohm mono. They are in a 23 cubic foot box with a port mouth of 32 x 9 inches and it is 2 1/4 inches deep. Our best test score today was a 153.7 at 51 hz. We tried longer ports but the one we started with is the loudest so far. We have not tried making the port mouth smaller and it can not be any bigger. We also have not tried putting stuff in the box to take up…

Hi everyone, first post here. I have an Fi Q 12, I ordered it fully loaded with the high QTS option with the intention to use it in a sealed enclosure. I currently have it in a 1cu ft box. Unfortunately the sub response really rolls off below 35-40hz, which is very disappointing. I have had much lower end subwoofers in sealed boxes that were actually much better on the low end frequencies. So my thoughts are to try it in a ported enclosure and see how it responds. Problem is I have High QTS. What will happen and how will the sub react to a ported enclosure? If anyone has any input on how else to solve my issue or any ideas about the enclosure let me know, it's greatly a…

Hello all, Havent been on the forums for a while but Im doing a new build and need some recommendations. I was thinking of purchasing 2 Q10" subs and installing them in .8cu ft enclosures. These enclosures are Subthump stealth boxes that fit behind the wheel wells of a 2010 Camaro. I have a few questions. 1) Whats the diameter of the magnet on the 10" Q? The max magnet diameter of this box design is 6.75". Will it fit? And do any of the build options change the magnet size? (cooling option. pchamfer, etc.) 2) The specs on Fi's website recommend .2-.5 cuft after displacement with the high qts option. The boxes I'm looking at are .8cuft. I see people on the forum talking a…

Does anyone happen to know the magnet diameter on the older style Q10? I'm working on a new enclosure and have some very odd space constraints. If anyone could help me out that would be great. Thanks in advance, Mike B.

I know the routine in making a sealed enclosure but have a few questions before I begin.... This is the first one I am making for my 15" Q and I am getting 3/4 mdf and using 1.5" on the front where the sub is mounted. I was planning on using liquid nails to glue the boards together and then screw them- should I then caulk around the inside after that? Also when doubling up the front baffle, should I just glue and screw two pieces of 3/4 mdf together and then attach to the rest of the box and cut my sub hole in both? Any other tips, or things I forgot before I start building? Thanks guys for the help!

Has anyone on here made a box for any of the bl woofers on here from the box cut forum? I have never made a box before and found that cut sheet page and if it saves me $300 by not going to a car audio store to have one built I think I would give it a shot. Just looking for input on if they came out nice sound wise and all. Thanks for your time people's

i have a guy that wants me to do a wall install in a 2004 sunfirefor 2 btl 15's or 18's. im going to have the wall on the smaller side so it can take a little more power but do you guys think 2 btl's can take a xx-maxximus (last years) for everyday use??? or would he be better off with 2 xxv-Colossus (new ones)??

I'm gonna be putting together a daily driver system soon, and want something that pounds, has control, and sounds bad ass doing it.. I have a 2007 Trailblazer SS.... I listen to a lot of death metal, heavy metal, some alternative, some rap, and techno/electronic type music as well.. I've been kicking around the idea of three 12" Image Dynamics IDQ's, or three 12" Alpine Type R's (i know, not the same league), or even three JL 12w6v2's.... I looked at the Fi Q's, and they're nice, but a little more than I wish to spend per sub. The SSD's are a much better option. I put them in WinISD, and much to my suprise, the response is pretty much spot on with the 12w6v2.. So now,…

Hi guys, need help on box measurements, such as specs for depth, height, length, port size for my ssd 12" in a sedan for trunk firing, thanks in advance

When I took out my subs I found a brownish materials on the sub terminals. Upon inspecting, I suspect the glue from the cone to the surround is melting. Is there any reason to it? Also would any glue which is strong enough would fix this. I plan to use the 10 minuted epoxy as its avaiable in anywhere in my please compared to the CA glue or the original glue that was used. Would the epoxy do its job without affecting any performance? thanks