Fi Technical

I'm just curious, what in the heck is the cause of my Fi SSD 15" terminals on basket to melt? I've think It's killed my amp - A kicker ZX1000.1 with little warning. I had everything wired correctly and it's been bumping flawlessly for several months when last week I noticed my amp was off. I started looking over all my wiring starting from the hood, to the amp, to the sub. When I pulled my sub out I noticed on one side of the coil the positive and negative, well rather the positive melted towards the negitive post and caused a short. Im just curious as to what caused this? I'm still running a stock alt in the car and I know the kicker amp drawed alot of power to whe…

I am looking into buying the 15 or 18. I would like to say that I would rather get the 18, but that's not true. I want to get whatever will promote the best response with my trunk size. I have a 03 grand prix, and the height of the trunk is only 17 inches. The maximum dimensions the box width and length can be are 35 x 30. My main question is if the surround of the sub is only 1 1/2 to 2 inches away from the lid, will that decrease my response? With the 18 the dimensions would be 15 tall x 35 wide x 29 deep with the port firing into the cab tuned at 33hz. Will smaller actually give me the most bass? I'm not worried about SQ, just spl... Thanks in advance! Any help and ad…

I saw some mj-18 motors for sale and I was wondering if you had recones available for them. I will need 15" baskets aswell. Thanks, Ryan

Currently have a 12" BTL (D2, loaded, daily) powered by 2500D. Box is 2.5cuft @ 32Hz (after displacement). External dimensions 27" x 18" x 16". Port is 14.5" x 2.5" x 40"? (forget, used subwoofertool.com few years back) Would like to get a bit more out of the lows. They hit good as it is now, even down to 25Hz, but they could probably be better. Just wondering what I would need to do to make another box that specializes in the bottom end more. Smaller box? Larger port?..etc. Was thinking, maybe 28-30Hz tune? Maximum dimensions: 31" x 18" x 16"

Right now i have my 2 Q 12's in a 5^ft @ 33hz with 71sqin of port box. I was wondering if I built another box same size and tuning(might tune to 32hz) but with 80sqin of port would i notice any difference in sound?

Due to tight angles I need to know the OD on the Motor for a 12" BL. Thanks

just got a blow sx 12 and the glue on the top plate gave way when i pulled the coil out, so the gap collapsed, is there anyways to realign it, if so how much. thanks

I know to pilot my screws, but the problem is i'm using 1 front baffle for the sub, and maybe i'm wrong, but i just dont see 3/4" screw holding that for that long. am i wrong or am i supposed to use a different kind of screw?

This is my first time to mount a sub (have to learn sometime, eh?), so bare with me. The screw holes, when i look through them, i see the foam/rubber that extends from the surround. If i stretch the circle with the screw holes, i can barely get past the outer rim of the basket; making it impossible to screw the opposite side in. SO my question is, how exactly do i screw (or bolt, undecided) the thing in? I know to pilot/predrill my holes, its just i dont know how to safely do it.

I see that the mounting depth on the 15" BTL is 8.25"; so Im assuming the mounting depth with the 3rd mag would be a inch more @ 9.25"? Would 1/2" between the back of the woofer and the enclosure be enough to let the sub vent? Cuz 1/2" is all I can do

Got my bl today, went to bolt it into the box and noticed that the holes in the gasket don't go all the way through. I can see the holes on the bottom then the lip that comes off of the surround goes over the whole and blocks it. Do i drill through it?

Never mounted an amplifier right next to a woofer before, so it i tried it. Currently I have two 15" Fi Q's mounted invertedly behind the back seat of my car. There was just enough room to mount the p450.4 in between the magnets of the Q's, which positioned the amp perfectly at the reach through in the back seat. Doesn't seem to affect any perfomance aspect of the amplifier, so I guess all is good there, maybe i got lucky, or maybe i'm just sketchin. Next item of business though, What about mounting batteries too close to woofers? Does it matter? Talking kinetiks here too, not some cheap lead acid. I wouldn't see why this would be a problem, but I learn new things al…

i got an Fi BTL 12 and i would like to know what the best way about mounting it in the whole would be.... what kinda screws...coarse thread, t-nuts?

I'm looking for the exact dimensions of the MT gap or the exact coil dimensions to see what other coils will work with it. If Scott or Nick see this i'd appreciate some info. If anyone has the MT coil sitting around and has access to a dial caliper or something to measure precisely I would really appreciate the help. Or if anyone knows the gap dimensions off the top of their head lol...

i bought a mt motor a few weeks ago and ups damaged it....the pole has shifted to one side........can you fix this? or is it a 53 pound paper weight?

Hey guys, i need another recone for my MT. Im looking for dual 1.4, optimized for use with 2 powerbass xa3000d's. I want stiff but not super stiff, i was thinking quad spider, 2 stiff, 2 med stacked alternatly, with heavy duty tinsel. If you guys have another idea im open to it. Lemme know please need it asap. BTW itll be shipped to ontario canada.

is the mt dvc 1.4 copper coil available through u guys here at Fi?

Hi, Ive got a MTX TA81001 amp that pushes 1500 watts at 1 ohm and im going to run a 15 inch Q. Do i need to get the BP option or will it be fine without it.

im currently in the process of building my system using the said products in the Title.. my question are, will this amp be good if not perfect for the 18" BTL fully loaded? is the amp stable at 1 ohm? ive seen the specs of this amp but im kinda confused cause it was only CEA certified at 2000wrms @ 2ohms. i'll be adding a Kinetik HC2400 battery using a 90 amp stock alt and a regular battery? do you think my electricals can handle my system? and lastly, im gonna jail the sub with a 5cu.ft. (net) enclosure tuned at around 30 to 33Hz. will this planned system work? oh and btw, is that amp even good enough to work with in the first place?

I looked at the voice coil on one and there were markings. What does FC FW mean? Plus how will I know if it has the cooling option I ordered?

Can someone tell me why about 1/4 of the spider would be torn and a lil crispy and the rest be fine? the coil looks fine too btw...powered by a KX1200.1 in a 2.6 internal sealed enclosure...it smells AND feels as if it were on fire...the gains were fine and everything, i wasnt even playing full tilt when all the sudden...silence, no pop or any sound, just no bass and the smell

Just got my 15" BL two days ago "THNX Scott!" Just wondering your guys opinion on this box design... does everything checkout? I'm iffy about the 3.8ft^3 should i cut it back to 3.5^3 http://www.subwoofertools.com/forum/ported...s=34.5&CE=0

I haven't purchased the Q yet but here is the box. Will the bracing get in the way or will I be good? I'll get measurements tomorrow of how far from the hole the bracing is and how many inches in between the two peices if that would help. Appreciate it!

Hey guys!!! So I am currently running a box built from Dave the box guy. Its 2.5 cubes after displacement, tuned at 35 hz. I have a the ssd with flatwound and bp power, a 2010 model. Anyway, I LOVE the way this thing sounds. But I got to thinking.. I know that Fi Recommends the max ported box space to be 2.5 cubes, and thats what I run. But I am still a novice, and got curious about mechanical handling... Would running this at 1000 watts rms daily (MB Quart ONX 1500.D amp) be okay to do? Cuz thats what I am running, with the amp tuned as well. Just wanted to make sure that may check out okay, or do I need to reduce my amps tuning? Thanks guys! -Chance

it was making a popping sound a few days ago. then yesterday it happened the coil broke from the cone. im going to try in glue it back witch glue should i use ?