Fi Technical

I am 19 I have 2 sp4's on the way. I have 2 ampere 3800's. Everything going in a 98 dodge ram 1500 ext cab. I'm wanting at least 154-56db to the ear. Would 2 in a 4th order do the job or would 3 be better? I'm not trying to get 4 because I want to save money.

I have a 2003 Chevrolet Tahoe and I am going to put a Fi BL 18" in it. It will be powered with a Rockford Fosgate T10001bd amp and a Kinetik battery. Just ordered it yesterday I have a general idea of the specs on my box in order to fit the 5-10 cubic feet. It will be about 9 cubes by the time everything is displaced. The only problem since I am new to car audio and this is my first system is what are the dimensions of the port? The box will be W 45" x H 20" x D 20" with 3/4" MDF. I want to tune the box to 32Hz. Any help will be appreciated. -Kasey

So after being bassless for months now my FI BL 12 is on its way. I drive a 240sx now so i do not have much trunk room, I need help with a box design that would be optimal for the sub. Thanks for the help in advance. Trunk Dimensions: Height Sloping from 20" - 17" at the back. Length: 15". Width: 36". Simplicity is key since i do not have access to many tools.

So I know these Fi speakers can take a beating, but I had my 18" SSD playing for maybe an hour at pretty high volume with some really heavy bass and I noticed a burning smell coming from it. The dustcap was pretty warm. I know its the voice coils, but I play at the same volume all the time and have never had this problem. Is it just because of the extended usage ? I know its not good when it happens. I'm running it off an Onkyo HT-S3100 5.1 receiver. I don't think its clipping, as the receiver would shut off. The sub is fine when not played for extended periods though. Should I be worried ?

The other nite we were changin the box my fi's are in and the drill slipped and went through the rubber on the subwoofer.. He said if we put rtv silicone on the inside and outside of the cut it would be ok but Im not sure any help would be good

After first seeing the specs on the website, I noticed there are a few necessary specs not included. #1: I noticed the xmax, but nowhere did I see the xlim. #2: Recommended type of port(s)? (shape/size/depth) If I list the specs of my vehicle, maybe someone can get an idea and throw me some info. If any other info is needed, just ask. 1995 GMC Sierra LT ext cab 6.5ft bed. Rear seat bottom and back will be removed. .75" MDF enclosure with internal dimensions of 45"W x 30"H x 25"D. Subs will be up-firing. Should ports be front, rear, up or side firing? Where should the ports be located in terms of speaker location, between subs, at corners, etc? I will be aiming for…

I have 1 15 BTL Fully loaded, i was playing it today and it started smoking then went out. I have it on a Orion Hcca 5000, the gain was not up it was below half way, i wasn't playing it for a long time, i don't know what could be the problem. If you have any ideas what the problem could be, or what I could do please let me know, Thank You.

hey guys, i bought an fi btl 18" sub yesterday its my first big sub and im still learning so take it easy on me anyway, the guy i bought it from gave me the box with it as well (looks to be about 6 cubes) and there was a piece of mdf covering half of the port he mentioned something about it being there to build more pressure and im not sure what effect this would have anyway, in my opinion all it could possibly do is fuck the sub up somehow by making it move in a wa its not meant to in that box can i get any opinions on it? let me know why it could be good or bad -Stephen

Anyone here running about 140 db on a single Fi Q12? What amp and size of box did you use?

I am about to buy a FI btl and i was wondering if someone could give me good measurements of a enclosure with 10 cubes of space and is tuned to 32 Hz(s). If you need any more details please replay

So I own 2 18" BTLs. I have 2 memphis 4ks on each, and they are very loud. Because of the area I live and and personal preference, I don't choose to flexnuts very often (well once a day). Once a day I drive past my ex-fiance's house (who I left after finding out she was cheating on me). This is my once a day stress release- since she's always outside smoking and she tried to prevent me from getting subs-she hated bass- and now she gets to hear them all the time Well, I was listening to da blow by lil john, when I noticed my mirror going crazy. Then it fell off. Guess I'm going to have to go get some repair glue from walmart/advance auto tomarrow. After opening the bac…

So about a year ago, I had bought the 12" Q, had a 1.8 cu ft box @32hz built, and recently just purchased the sundown audio sae-1200d v2. The Q sounds freakin amazing, but I was at a car show this weekend, and a guy with 2 12" alpine type R's ported had beaten my output, with the same wattage. I refuse to be beaten by alpine type R's... So I want more air movin through my car, and am loving what I am hearing / seeing about the BTL. I plan on getting a 15" (if she fits) dual 2, wire it to 1ohm, and temporarily keeping the amp I just bought for it. I do have electrical work to do, but that's a whole 'nother story. The max dimensions of a box in the back of my scion tC tha…

Just to clarify. I'm looking to run the 12" in a ported enclosure. Also I'd like mostly SQ so if anyone would elaborate, i've heared sealed is more SQ ported is louder. I like louder but I've heard ported can get the SQ with loudness. Dual 2 Ohm Cooling: Yes p chamfer: yes high qts: no spider: no I heat ring: no internal lead: ?? Thanks ya'll Powered by PA-1500 - Nakamichi 1 Ch 1200 Watt Power Amplifier

Would it be smart to run the BLs down to 0.5ohms for daily use if I upgraded all my electrical? The amp is an Atomic 3000.1d

I have a 12" bl with a kicker zx1000.1 and an optima red top for a battery and even with the gain only half way up I am getting headlight dimming and my amp is clipping. I have a friend with the same amp and the 15" bl and his doesn't clip and he has a weaker battery so I have no idea why mine keeps clipping.

Guys I am looking to build my first 4th order enclosure. I have always ran my subs in ported boxes but since I have 6 SP4's now I want to maximize them. Any of you guys out there running the SP4 15's in a 4th order and if so what type of numbers did you use as far as sealed/ported, cubes net and port area? I have max dimensions of 46W x 60D x 32H....Its in a Infiniti QX56 SUV on 2 Crossfire XS-8k's for power. I am doing mid 50's right now using 4 of the SP4's but the mid 50's I am doing are between 27hz and 33hz.

Hey guys, I just want to get some input on a burp box for 2 12" BL's fully loaded. This will be for a cross over and running 1000 or 2000 watts. Right now the system is up to 148.4 on 1800 watts with a some what music box. What I want to do is build the burp box so the subs are back and the port on the side. The info and input I need is the size of the box and the size of the port. Im 99% set on using a aeroport and was thinking 8" but would 8" be to small? Some people say the box needs to be big like 5 cubes and some say small like 3 cubes. So im a bit lost on where to start lol.

id like to know why my 4000 watt amp wont push 1 15 Bl fully loaded without blowing both my 40 amp fuses in it.

Configure Speaker: Ohm: dual 1/dual 2 P Chamfer: no/yes +$10 Cooling: no/yes +$40 HiXmCoil: no/yes +$20 Daily or SPL: Daily/SPL Induct Heat Ring: no/yes +$25 Universal: no/yes i just wanted to know mainly what i should get and what it does for the speaker. i was purchasing two of these if you need to know.

Hey all, Today I just got my 12" BTL and my Crunch GP3000D along with my custom box and I installed everything today and to be honest I am not impressed with this subwoofer at all. Like when the subwoofer hits, it sounds like it is bottoming out and I dont understand why. I use to have 2 12w6v2s to a JL 1000/1 and it was hitting WAY harder than my 12" BTL. I just met my friend who I sold my w6s to and he was running them to a Kenwood amp pushing 600rms to them and they were slamming compared to my BTL. I just am not impressed with the performance of the BTL at all. It cannot pick up anything high at all. I know it is a SPL sub, but I have read tons and tons of peoples rev…

New Fi Q15 owner here. Fresh to these forums too. I just wanted to share about my project and also had a few questions and was hoping for some feedback/opinions. Recently got my hands on BB6 pro and built a pretty bitchin' (and simple) PR setup for my buddy's Saturn ION that piqued my interest to try it again, but bigger and with more power. I used a Resonant Engineering SEx10 paired up with a TC sounds VMP12 (stock 390g mms) in a prefab 1.8cf sealed 15" box. Made a speaker ring adapter for the 12 in the 15" hole, and then cut a hole in the side of the box for the 10". We were very pleased with the amount of LF output this little bad boy has, and still being super clean …

I've had a Fi Q 12" for several years now... I think I got it in 2008, maybe 2009, but it was before they changed some of the options available. At the time there weren't many options and I went with the most basic setup available. Basically, I've had to reduce my trunk space consumption by moving my audio gear (wife and I had a baby in September!). Last summer I managed to move my Kicker ZX200.2 amp which is powering my front speakers (Eclipse SC6500 6.5" components with passive crossovers) and attach it to an accessible metal panel in my trunk, and I actually completely removed my Fi Q 12" in a 1.25cuft (gross, not net) box, and my Kicker ZX750.1 amp that Kicker rated…

so i bought my btl 12 in late march. and i just got the money for my new amp. a alpine m2000. but the amp kept cutting out. and i tested the voice coils on the sub and i've got a bad one. it seems to me that it was never right. and i was wondering what i should do about it. i'll call FI in the morning but do you guys have any suggestions?

Ok, so I finally finished stage 1 of my install today. It's gonna take too much time for the custom fab needed for my components to fit in my door so I used a Line Out Converter to get me by. I couldn't change out my HU because of the factory amp and it would cause the speakers not to play and there is no harness for it yet. Anyway, back to the point of the post. So I have my Q in a sealed box with about .8-.9 cubes after displacement. It's a cheap $20 prefab box. I'm just not happy with the current output of the sub. I've seen 10" Q videos, sealed and ported, where there was trunk flex and the rear view mirror noticeably vibrates, and this is only on 1000 watts. I'm runn…

My friend and I are starting to build a system for his 2004 Tahoe. We are running 4 sp4 18s. We was wondering what kind of air space and tuning we should run. The amp we are using is an American Bass VFL1100.1. Your help is appreciated.