Fi Technical

ok someone told me before that if they were standard 3" coils then they could be reconed. well i got bored and ripped on of my blown T1's apart. outside of the coil is 3.204"-3.244" and the inside of the coil is 3.020"-3.051". bent a lil bit, maybe from removing it. how much would it cost to recone? how much power would it be able to handle? would i just be better off buying ssd's? thanks. p.s.- any more dimensions needed ill see what i can do, its kinda hard to get into the basket with a 6" dial caliper . but ill see what i can do if ya need me to. the gap in the motor is approx. .145"

Making another request for dimensions for Q 10. Trying to determine if a Q10 will fit within an existing enclosure I designed and built using different subs.

This is to FI, What are my options on reconing a TC 3hp motor to a 18"??? I need it reconed to a dvc 4 ohm. What parts will fit?? Could you pm me a cost of the recone if I send it in thanks, Joe

i have been searching the forums and technical advise.... but i dont see anything about FI speakers in a sealed application. i want to run 2-15's or 2-18's in the backseat (fiberglassed in) of my caprice, however i dont really like running ported enclosures. is sealed not an option with FI speakers?

just got a blow sx 12 and the glue on the top plate gave way when i pulled the coil out, so the gap collapsed, is there anyways to realign it, if so how much. thanks

last wee end i was playing around with my system and i was play with a cd that went 1 to 100 cycles and sweep. i thnk that i might of found my sweet spot for my explorer around 46 to 48 hz. i was look at get 2 fi sdd 18 and i as wondering would 46hz to48 hz be to high to tune a box to?

How are you guys/gals fitting such long ports that are necessary for the Q12 into not very large boxes (1.8-2.5 cuf). I am designing a ported box for my single Q12. (2.2ish cuf @ 32ish hz) I am looking at a 6" port that is around 30 inches long. Is everyone using slot ports with multiple bends? I am not looking to compete or steal any secret designs. I am just looking for suggestions of what other people are doing to port the Q12. Thanks.

Welp im getting a 12" BTL from my friend and its fully loaded with all options but he bought it maybe like a year ago or so. Now im wanting to recone it to a 18", now my question is do i have the option of adding the HiXmCoil to the recone or is it already understood you get that with a fully loaded recone or what? Thanks for the responses

does anybody have any Winisd driver files for any of the Fi subs? If so I would like to get my hands on em. Mine dont seem to be accurate and I would like to see how you guys did yours.

Howdy, I've been in the planning stages on this for a while and I think I've got it figured out. I'm going for 4 x BTL 12's Fully loaded in this wall: The specs are like this: 19.69 cubes gross 16 cubes net (Subs and Ports removed) 4 cubes per sub Tuned to 32hz with 266.875 sq. in. of port I'd like to run dual 2 ohm BTL's and have each one off of a Orion HCCA-D5000 so roughly 2500 watts RMS per sub (10k total). I'm planning to run all Knu Konceptz 1/0 wire with multiple runs to a battery bank of 6 Kinetik HC2400's in the trunk and 2 200 amp alts. So my question is, do these specs look good for the subs and such?

Well guy im new to this forum so Hi . Now to the question... I have just bought an 18" btl fully loaded with the spl option, and from what I read on here you cant play music at all with it wich is not my intentions. I want to be able to play music and not just a tone. I have just emailed trying to get my order changed to the Daily option. If it dosent go through will the Spl option really not be able to play my songs at all? Im really hoping I just didnt waste 500$...

well like i stated on someone elses thread, my tinsel lead broke and i really felt the woofer didn't sound the same anymore. i was just looking at it and noticed that the surround is starting to crack around where it meets the cone. and i also need a terminal which i broke a long time ago. my question's.... do i order the recone an do it myself? never done it, so i'm kinda wanting to try it. do i send it back to fi and have them do it? i built a box for another guy in hawaii that has a btl and was wondering if they could do my tinsels like his? or, do i buy a new woofer, because shipping back and forth might be kinda pricey? any and all suggestions welcome and …

Hello all Long story short. My friend told me to check out FI Audio. I surfed through the FI forums for days and have concluded that the SSD or Q line sub woofers will do everything I need. There are several extra options for each series. I ask you experts, what do you think is best for my application. Ohm load on the amps and cuft of the box are limiting factors. Amps: Two RF 500m's (if you are not familiar with the watts RMS or ohm configurations of these amps ask...I will explain them) Ohms limitations: min 2ohm mono load per amp or min 4ohm load in a bridge mono configuration using both amps. Box Space Ideal limit: 4cuft total or less Open options: speaker siz…

Does anyone now what happens to your cars electrical system when you strain it? cause i have not upgraded my alternator and my capacitors and lights dim horribly, only upgrade i got is a a red cap battery

My sub is less than a year old. Listening to it while driving on the highway one day at about 1/3 the volume and it just shut off. I thought it was the amp or a bad connection somewhere. How do I get this fixed? Is it covered under warranty? I have an Fi Q 12

I have two Fi X 12's and the tensil leads slap really bad. I have about 450watts on each.. i know the RMS is 300 watts.. but the sub is still putting out clean sound other than the leads... i noticed that the tensil's aren't aligned with the pad on the back of the cone. if i were to relocate the pads do you think this would solve the problem? THANKS

I just picked up two BTL 18's, dual 2's, fully loaded, and will be running them off of two modded Memphis Mojo MC-2000d amplifiers (1 on each driver at 1 ohm), approx. 3000 watts each. In my vehicle, which is a 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser, I don't have a whole lot of useable space to work with and still maintain practicality, so the enclosure is going to be a bit tight for specs. I will run the subs inverted to try to save as much airspace as I can, but I only have a total of 11.2 cubes to work with, before port displacement. I will be able to run 4.7 cubes per driver after displacement, while running more than sufficient power to the drivers, at 3000 watts per. Fi recommends…

Hey guys im looking to try out the maxx link but i have a question for ya. Im gonna be running 4 kicker zx2500.1 amps and 2 18in Btl dual 1 ohm subs. The zx amps are 2 ohm stable and i was wondering if there is any possible configuration to have the amps see a 2ohm load once strapped. Also would i be better without the maxx link and running each amp to each coil? What ohm loads could i see there. thanks

Hey guys, I have an 18" BL running at about 1200 watts and this thing moves air. I've had some problems with my rear deck flapping up and down no matter how much I seal it off. It seems air is always getting into it. It will even start shaking my rear seats and moving them in and out (they are foldable). My rear speakers currently are a sealed speaker. In such that they are an older JBL pair I got from a friend's lincoln. So the cone isn't being moved or anything by the air. I don't ever use rear fil, i just threw them in there to help seal up the rear deck and so on. My question is this though...by attempting to seal up the rear deck (dynamating it, covering all the hole…

Hey everybody, i have 2 2400 watt mono amps (linked together it makes a 2 ohm load) each amp is 1700 rms (by titanium power) im hooking up a Fi 15"btl 1ohm dvc. how do i wire my sub to have a 2 ohm load? Because my amp goes in protect mode at really high volume help please!!! i just have it wired like this (dont pay attention to the ohms) this connection works alomost to the highest voulume output on my stereo but then goes to protect mode http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/woof...mp;woofer_imp=1 i tried this but it gets the amp in safe mode at mid volume http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j230/spa...SERIES-DUAL.jpg any help please!!

Could somebody tell me what the diameter of the magnet is on the 12" BTL. And, what is the mounting depth of the same sub is. And one more thing, if I build a box that is 5" at the top, 11" at the bottom, 20" tall, and 40" wide, will that be enough room to fit a 12" BTL with just cooling(will it be deep enough)?

Hallo from greece. I want to know how many litr do i want for two Q 15" to play deep bass at 32hz???What power RMS can handle 2 of them together??? Thanks.

the thread is much more developed here http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=265327 but i will post here anyways, since i would like to get an idea of what some new tinsel will cost me so i can try to do a repair. so my btl stopped working today when i was listening to it on volume 35/70 on the highway. i thought maybe my wires came loose. get home, pull out the woofer and this is what i see at first glance i thought i clipped it. i take a look at the coil...its fine. never smelled anything either and everything is in the same condition as when i recieved the sub. and the other tinsels dont look burned to me at all. i am the third owner of the sub. it does loo…

Hey I'm looking to run two Loaded BL 15s. Will these hold approx. 1700 rms each? for light daily use and some compeition use as well? Also is there a tuning frequency that I can get where they will drop hard and still be loud on about 45 hz tones for comps or do I need to just build two interchangable boxes? What size would you reccomend if I'm driving a Jeep and have a lot of room. This is a crappy first thread I know but I am looking for advice direct from the Fi experts lol.

Hey everybody, I have a BL 15 dual 2 with every option except universal and extreme leads. I am currently giving the sub about 1400 watts RMS. I am pretty sure that it can handle this, but since it is quite a bit above the rated power I just wanted to be sure that I am not going to blow the sub (because it gets REALLY loud). I am sort of afraid to turn it up all the way right now so any advice would be appreciated. My amp is a Lanzar Opti2000D and my head unit is a Pioneer DEH-P6900UB (if that matters...) Install pics (just for fun): http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/3536/dsc04662lz5.jpg http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/7650/dsc04659ym2.jpg http://img152.imageshack.us/…