Fi Technical

How much do they take up as a far as displacement goes..

well im planning on buying a Fi Q 12" either putting the order during this week, well the thing is that i already have the box for 1 12" it is 29w x 14h x 14d making it 2.48 cuft, 2.32 after displacement of the Fi q (.16) i went to www.the12volt.com and the calculator said that if i used a 4" diameter port it would have to be 11.33" ifor a 32hz. is that right? anyone, scott? thanks

with 2K RMS should i go with a BL or a BTL ??? i hear most people run their BTL at like 4k rms or 3k rms and i would rather run a BTL if it wont be vastly underpowered....i was reading on the forum and i think it was tejcurrent who ran 2 18" BTL's off of 2 hifonics 2K RMS amps and hit right below 151. so if i ran 2k to a Bl would it get just as loud as 2k on a BTL ?

Guys finally going to start building an enclosure for my Q 15. My plan is to do something like this: http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t203/wy...enclosure-1.jpg I am aiming for 3.5 cu. ft net after port displacement with port tuning of 30-33hz (does that makes much difference musically??). My question is: 1. What is the recommended port are for the Q15? I want to make the port as big as possible for more air to move out of the port. 2. Has anyone ever modelled the Q15 in WinISD as everytime I tried to key in the value either I will get some errors or different t/s value. I dont know whether my box will yield linear response. 3. Has anyone (expecially Scott or Nick) can …

Are they measured when the subs are new and stiff, or after they're broken in?

My space is 39" wide and I can go 20" tall. How deep do I need to make the box (and how long AND wide does my slot port need to be) to have a net volume of 4-4.5cuft and a daily tuning of 30-33hz? Power will come from 2 sundown saz1500's strapped at 2ohm. Thanks

hey all my brother is about to buy a 15 Bl(d2, cooling) and hopeing to run it off a b120d(brutus) in an enclosure witch is about 3.4-3.7 cubes...idk about how much port tho.. i do have a couple of questions tho.. is the Bl ok to run at 1200, i know the rms is at 1k and i think it can take the extra 200 watts but i want to make sure that it can, can it? is 3.4-3.7 cube well enough to run the bl at, and if so how much port would i be looking at? ok with ported boxes is it better to have the sub more towards the begining of the port or further away from the port begining? thanks, steveyblack

What wiring Options do I have with Dual D1 Coils for 1 and 2 subs need all the wiring possibilities. Thanks in advance

What is the recommended amount of port area for an SSD with copper Coils? Think I need to build another enclosure but I want to get everything panned out before I do so..

Just a quick question, I have a JL 12W6V2 that I bought on ebay a couple of years ago. Sub worked fine for a while, but eventully died on me (my fault of course, got a lil greedy with the gains lol)and has been collecting dust at the house ever since. I was wondering if FI can do a recone on this sub? Thanks.

ive been using subwoofertools.com to help me figure out what my dimensions are going to be, but i have a problem. My max dims are 36x24x12, which correct me if im wrong is 6 cubes. but i cant ever get the depth to be close enough to 12 inches for it to work. id like the box to be about 4.5 cubes at around 34 hz. the closest design ive come to is 4^3 at 34hz, but that is with the xmax part at 16... im really frustrated right now.

I figured I'd start this topic because I have noticed there are a lot of people asking this questions, I even still have a few questions. The most common besides enclosure questions is those about how powering the BTL, so maybe this will be a good blanket to answer many questions. Q1. When most people buy this sub they don't have an enormous expensive amp to power it to it's full potential-as most people just want something to hold up good for daily use and don't plan on seriously competing with it. Being that the RMS is 2000 watts, is this the minimum recommended? Obviously 500 watts will make it play, but to see good results what is the smallest amount of power recommen…

My Q15 peak is 39 htz and i didnt know if there was any good songs anyone knows cause i need one for my fist comp cause i cant use sweeps, test tones, i have to use a daily song?

Hello everyone, I am trying to decide if I should just get an amp that will do full power at 2 ohms or order a D1 BL 10 and a recone for my BL 10 with the universal option. My current amp is 1 ohm stable, it "Can" run at .5 but only if my electrical system can support it, which it cant because its all stock. So, on to the real question, if I just order another BL 10 D2 and run my eD 9.1 at 2 ohms for 900 to 1000 watts rms, will my BL's still sound decent with only 500 watts rms. I know underpowering will not hurt a sub unless you clip, I know the recommended rms for the BL is 1000 rms, I know I should have considered all of this BEFORE I ordered my BL in D2. But I had pla…

Guys i am fully aware that the flatwind and the coppercoils are two options you can not get together... My question is why can they not be done together (i am trying to learn all i can about the build of these subs for sheer knowledge) ? I was guessing that scott hasn't found the right coil for the flatwind to get a favorable response to have both copper and flatwind.... And if there is any great advantages to having both, WILL they eventually be a way to get both options? And if you guys were to find a way to incorporate both will the Q later have an option for the copper coil (I suspect the Q has a flatwind on it, thus no option for a copper coil)?

about to drop in a pair of d2 bl 15's loaded for daily to replace my d1 q's (to go a little easier on my american bass vfl 200.1, thing smoked on me before and cost over 300 to fix) in 8.2 cubes @ 32 hz. was pushing the q's to their limits, about 1300 watts each, and raising the load to 1.4 ohms (3kw at 1 ohm) i'll probably be giving the bl's about the same power, maybe a tad more. can i expect the bl's to be louder across the board? will they still pick up the lows as well as the q's did or will i need more power to get that low end extension?

??? Thanks

Hey guys, Mr. Noob with here with another question again.......I am putting in binding posts to replace the terminal cups in my sub box cuz all my wiring is 8 gauge and the cups do not accomadate 8g wire. Plus I always go "OVERKILL" for peace of mind. When talking to Mike of Zenclosures(guy that made my box and he's GREAT guy like Scott is by the way), he said I could just use silicone to seal the new posts. I've seen people here talk about caulking so which is better? Or is silicone adequate? Enquiring minds want to know????????????????

a question for the man shawn fleming and any body else that know about spl boxes.for spl only,which box would be louder for a btl-18 with 5000 watts.a 6.2cf box with 98 inches of port,tuned to 64 hz. 7 cf box with 114 inches of port at 64 hz or a 8.5 cf box with 138 inches of port tuned at 64 hz also.for spl burps only.this setup is going in a astro van,4-btl's 18's.trying to find best box config.with port on driver side.all thoughts are welcome and valued.thanks BP.

Since the board was wiped out not many old posts to search through. Joining the FI ranks and picking up a 15" Q for the GF's car. Trunk space is important to her so I'm looking at doing: 2.8 -3.0^3 @ 31Hz. Sub will be getting around 1000rms off a PG amp. She listens to most anything but country, so I'm looking for an all around good sounding/respectably loud set up. The few posts I've found most guys are using around 3.5^3, so anyone have experience with this sub in the smallest recommended size of 2.8^3? TIA...Mike

Hello, I need help on the port volume. I have a 15" bl with a 1500.1 kicker mono amp and Will be building a 4 cubic foot box and would like it tuned to like 35 hz. I don't understand what 12-16 square inches per cubic foot means in the recomendations. I have always used/seen cubic inches for a port valume. so if someone could "please" help me out asap that would be great. Thanks alot. Farris.

Ok I'm planning to run a 15" BL in my trunk and was wondering what box idea would be louder. 1. A regular ported box facing the rear. 2. Wall off the trunk and have the sub facing the cabin in a ported box, with this setup i could make the install look nice with the box i would do the plexiglass with mirror inside of it with some L.E.D. lights in it or something to see when you pop open the trunk with the amps on the floor with a false floor, itd look real nice but it gotta sound good too...would that way be louder??? and my seat fold down if that has any factor...thanks

How well will this enclosure work for an Fi Q 10" sub. B

So after selling my Avalanche, i put my 2 13kv.2's back in my car. This is when i realize how amazingly low the avalanche gets. I am almost set on purchasing a 15" BL to replace the avalanche, but i just want to be sure that i will not be dissapointed with the low frequencies. I know it will get loud, but hell my 13kv's matched my avalanche at certain frequencies too. (BL will be on 1200 watts in 3.5 @30hz if it matters much) Anyone with experience with an avalanche as well as a BL (or other Fi sub, i assume they are a bit similar) please give me some input. I want to be absolutely positive that the BL will be $300 well spent. thanks.

my glue is coming loose from the surround to the basket what can i use to reglue