Subwoofers / Speakers

Here are the links for some of my equipments, tell me what yall think. I will post up some more tomorrow. SSA Car Audio Forum -> Gallery -> Viewing image -> CIMG0708.jpg http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/index.php?app=gallery&module=images&img=4567

Ok I've had my havocs for a week now, and now I'm just reviewing them. These monsters sounds so much better since last week, I mean they sounded awesome out the box, but now they are monsterous, and play God awefully loud and deep. These subs are amazing, and the funny thing is that I have it in a prefab box that had my Diamond audio d3's in and they sound so good and much better then the Diamond subs, I know they will sound much better in the proper enclosure. Thanks again Brian for the great customer service and great product.

In the near future im going to be setting a new system in my car, im going to be running the sundown sae-1200d for my 2 sa-8's, and the sax-100.4d for my mid's and highs, and of course doing the big 3, and running a yellow top optima for my starting batt. now my factory alternator is a 110 amp. i was planning on running a tsunami 2 fared capacitor, so my question is for my set-up and system will this be sufficient, or will i need to upgrade my alt, or just add a batt.?

well i was bumping a bassmekanic CD with lots of fast beats and high pitch bumps. I bumped it for a good 45 min. I thought i smelled something But it wasnt like a strong smell of something Burning just smelled like a light hint of something I felt my subs and they where Warm But not Blazing Hot. Is it Normal for subs to gain some heat ? Was i abusing my subs ? I mean i did turn it down after I was just upset and started bumping my shit on my ride home.

So i just got my new infinity kappa speakers a few days ago. While i was installing them, i noticed they were crackling alot while i was screwing them to the door. After a good amount of investigation, i came to realize that the frame of the speaker (or any metal on it) was creating a short on the door of the car itself. I could take my knife and touch the speaker frame and then touch the door, and it would short with sparks arching at the other end. The stock speakers were coated in plastic around that area so that the screw was isolated from the speaker and wouldnt short. Does any one know why this is happening? any ideas on how to keep it from happening on my new spea…

I have 2 15" MTX thunder 4500's running at 4 ohms off a memphis 1000 watt d class. I was riding around town today when I noticed a remarkable difference in output.. I checked the subs when I got home, to see that one had NO output at all.. I took the sub out to look at it, and the voice coil seems to be "seperated" or torn away from the spider.. Is this the reason that the sub stopped working, and is it repairable? It's not a major concern, I only had these subs as a temporary fix until I order my 15" Fi BL. It would still be nice to have both of these subs in working order though. Any thoughts? here's a link to a video of what happened.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O…

so i traded my pair of treo te 15's dual4ohms that i have beatin within an inch of there lives for a 2 week old fosgate t2 12 dual 2ohm that aint even broke in . but i got just the sub cause he didnt wanna come off his enclosure he paid $400 for so i gotta build an enclosure. so did i make an ok trade? this beast weighs as much as both 15's did in the box

So my friend blew his 10" PowerBass sub in his pickup truck the other day.. He sent it off to be repaired, and wanted to get something cheap to replace it til it gets back. He goes and buys a 60$ Sony Xplode from wal-mart. He called me up and asked me if I would install his new sub.. not telling me it was a Xplod. So I get to his house and start laughing. But nonetheless, I put it in for him. After it was wired up, I had to see how it sounded.. The Xplod sounded 2x as good, and loud as the PB ever though about being. SMH. The PB was a DVC 4 ohm sub, and the Xplod is a SVC 4 ohm.. I just thought this was pretty humorous, since the local car audio dealer charged him 100$+ …

My girlfriend has a 2010 Elantra and wants a single 12 and has a Kicker ZX750.1 to power whichever we choose. The ones listed as the one's we're deciding between. Price isn't an issue between them, so please don't take that into consideration when choosing one of the options. She usually prefers the sound of sealed, but I know a ported 12 could also sound tight and hit hard.

I have a SS xxx 15 with a psi recone. the surround ripped does any one know where i can just get the surrounds ?

My jeep has 6x9 in the front and 6.5 in the back. Thy are the infinity gold system that came with the jeep. I just purchased a pair of ID ctx65cs speakers and am stuck on what I should do. My options are as follows 1. Put ID component set in back and replace front 6x9 with ID ctx69. Buy a 4 channel amps to run all 4 2. Buy another set of ctx65cs and run them in front and back off a 4 channel amp 3. Put ctx65cs in front and run off a 2 channel amp(100rms x2). Run the stock rear speakers off of the head unit. What do you guys think? I am leaning towards option 3, it will allow me to save money towards my subwoofer. I know with option 3 that my music will be a good deal lo…

anybody know of any good component sets for around 100$,size 6.5 with 1 inch tweeters.i been lookink at kiker ks but there around 150$.

I will be running my new sundown 1200D that I got from the preorder The deepest sub I can go with is 6.5 so Im thinking Id get with 2 high powered 10s. But they will probably only get .75cu ft per sub What subs would you all recommend?

Hey guys! I received my Hovoc 15's 2 days (Thanks you Brian) ago and installed them yesterday. DAMN!!!! Thats all I can say lol. I had 2 Diamond Audio d3 previously and they were great. They hit pretty hard but didnt hit the lows hard enough for me. I had a Mmats 2000.1 amp powering both subs and the d3's couldnt handle it when cracked up, they started to smell like smoke after playing them hard and long. Overall they are great entry level subs, nice quality, and they hit hard. now for the havocs, out the box I knew these things was going to be a beast, and they are. After I installed them I rode around for a couple of hours just playing different songs and instantly thes…

im thinking about getting some ppi subs i have read that they have pretty good SQ for there price and i was just wondering if anyone knows if this is true? ive tried looking on youtube and other places but not alot of people have them or atleast they dont put them on the internet but if anyone knows anything about these subs please hit me up i would like to know more about them.. thanks

Hey guys, I currently have 2 Image Dynamic ID12's in a 4 cube ported box being pushed by an AQ1200D (870rms x 1 @ 2ohms) and my box is tuned to 30Hz. I want to "upgrade" and have something that's louder, still fairly accurate, can hit the higher bass notes (current box is severely lacking in that area, but hits the lows nicely) while still being able to bang the lows too, and has a smaller footprint. My car is a 04 Monte Carlo and currently the subs/port are rear firing, no speakers in my rear deck to allow more bass into the cabin. I'm open to all suggestions as for layout and what subs to use to accomplish my goals. My budget for sub(s) is $400 maximum! My only requirem…

the tweeter in my sig, if i change the tweeter to a different one while using the crossover would it matter? or because it is still getting the same crossover slopes its ok?

My buddy has 2cubes available in the back/trunk of an old school vette. What would give him the best overall sound out of 4 re rex10's, 2 pg rsdc12's, or a jl audio, or re se 15? All sealed off of an audioque1200.1? He listens to alot of spanish and a lil bit of rap. Big three upgraded and a decent battery under the hood lol I figured it would be the 12's bcuz the 10 wouldn't be able to get low do to the amount of air space, .5 cubes is recommended. And the 12's have more surface area than the 15. Thanks for any advice. budget is around $200 And I guess a ia 187 12's or a 15??

Part I http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3sSXayecc0I Part II http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rU2e2x4CM6E Initial Concepts: Chose good wood, 18ply 1\" full birch Final Design Chosen Woofars Lvl 4 15s

I have a new sub in a 3.5 ft3 box at 32 hz (Fishercustom designed) The amp is a Sundown saz 1000. My question is : do I have to play some special songs with the sub? What volume ? Low, high? Can I listen to anything without worrying, and the sub will be good in a few days ? After 2 hours it is still so hard!!! And it does play really low.

I have an sundown 1500d and wanted to know what sub(LVL 4, LVL 4/5 coils, and LVL 4XL) fits that amp the best? I may upgrade to more power in a couple years if i feel the need. Also what are the sound/musical differences and quality? This will be a daily/groundpounder. i thinking about getting a used LVL4/5coil 15" for $200 locally. I'm thinking about going with a 15". and if Rusty can send me a price for each shipped to 94579. Thanks.

Hey guys I was just wondering what you all think about these 2 sets of component speakers, Theyre right around the same price range, ATM im leaning more torwards the DLS's since they have a shallower mounting depth and are a bit cheaper too. Let me know what you all think of them and wut U would choose out of these 2 sets, Im open to suggestions on other comp. sets in the same price range of about $220max. And if U have any links please post them as well. Oh and these will be powered off a USAmps MD42. thanks everyone.

ok so ive came across a MMats juggernaut motor, i know they were more of a back in the day sub, but is it still worth buying and reconing? and what does it even compare to anymore

Are there any premade subwoofer enclosures that are available online to buy that would fit the Fi BTL "15 perfectly?

Hey Everyone, I am switching from my 15 BL to either 12's or 10's. I love the 15's but I sold one to a friend and am trying to sell another one that I never even used NIB. Anyway, I was thinking of doing 2 or 3 12's or maybe even 4 10's. I just have not really made up my mind yet. I have not had either and I was wondering which you guys prefer. If you were going to make a system and had either choice what would you choose and why. Also what brand would you go with, I'm looking for good loud subs that stay tight and keep there quality. For now they will be on a SAE-1200 but I plan on moving to a 2000 in the future when I upgrade my electrical further. Basically just …