Subwoofers / Speakers

I'm looking for a 12" sq sub in the 500-600w range. I haven't been keeping up, but I seem to remember reading that RE products have gone down in quality. I know the IDQ is an all time favorite. Anything else fit the bill?

So i'm in college now and i'm meeting new people that like car audio stuff. But they have Legacy and pyramid and things of that such, but their system is loud. I am going to have to attribute it to the car being small. One is a camry with 2 sony explodes and a powerbass basstube(from wallmart) hooked up to a kenwood amp. It beats pretty decent for the money he wpent on it, but i'm gonna say its a small car. Next is a chevy nova, again not as small as a camry, but not big either, so he has 2 mtx's whatever kind and a legacy amp. So he has better subs, but a crappy amp and i can barely sit in the back seat and it sounds like the trunk is about to come off. It makes no sinc…

I have most/recieving the items listed. CSS FR125s Adire SMF7's RE XXX 6.5" mids Coustic XM-7 2 AC EQTs need an amp. All will be going in a new vehicle I will be getting.

some guy offered me a brand new re xxx 18 even trade for my fi bl 15s. the bls are only like 4 months old. do i do it. no goals just loud well defined music

To run from my alt to my Sub amps, the guy said I could get away with it, if I put in a special fuse.... I am So just kidding, don't shoot.... Not even ure how I came up with that as I was typing... lol... But, Seriously on the speaker wire, think 12 ga would be decent enough to run from the amp (100.4) to the cross overs to the mid/tweet sets(Polk MM6501s)??? I was getting ready to oder some power wire and I was like, Ohhh, I need some speaker wire too.... Thinking about just buying a spool of 12 ga Stinger from Darvex... I would like to oder it all from one place if I can... If I have any left over, which I'm sure I would, I'll just keep it around for a future install…

Hello Everyone I have a 2.2 cu ft sealed enclosure (after displacement) and I was wondering if the new Mag would sound good in it. I have a PRSX720 amp that gives out 800 watts RMS @ 4 ohms thanks

this was a hard decision but i found 2 12" 2nd gen mags for 370 shipped, it was either these or the new d2, i was wondering do these also perform well in sealed apps or ported apps, also what would be a good amp to push them, my 2500d took a crap on me and is a goner.

CV stroker and stroker pro what does it compair to and how do they do in the lanes?

So i have a 2002 Chevy Tahoe. My enclosure is around 3.9 cubes net at 30hz, i know its mall (mostly port... I had an Fi Q 15" dual 1 on a Soundstream Dtr 1.3400 (3400 rms @ .5 ohm/ 2200 @ 1) and metered 146.7@45hz. I got a second Q and did 148.1 wired at .25 ohm @45hz. I later dropped a BTL 18" dual 2 in the same box and now i meter 145.8 @48hz on 2200 rms. But the 18" sounds extrmely louder than the 2 Q's.. But i would expect it from a lower peak freq.? The Tahoe flexes alot more but wouldnt that make of a lower peak? Any input on this is apreciated. Thanks

I've got 4 of the Morel MW-142's sitting in my garage and I can't help but notice that the 5" 327 component driver looks identical. The Morel MW-142 has a 3" voice coil and is rated at 150 watts RMS as well. The SI 327 driver I'm referring to is the upper right one on this page: http://www.stereointegrity.com/327.html The Morel MW-142 can be seen here: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.c...tnumber=297-020

I've recently been offered a 1993 towncar for a great deal. I was wondering if i could cram 2 soundsplinter 18's sealed in the trunk. I cant find the dimensions of the trunk, so anyone who has one should help me out! The car will be temporary because i will be buying an suv of some sort later.

I have sundown saz1500d amp...I have 0 guage power supply. First I hade a orion H2 15 D2 hooked up running at 1 ohm blew it up after a week was in a orion built to spec box...Next I purchased a RE Audio MX15 D1 Lasted 3 months was running at 2 ohms so it was getting maybe 7 or 800 watts...Dont know why im blowing sub?? amp levels are not maxed by any means...Looking for a single 15" subwoofer for daily use that wont blow up on me....I need input please Looking for SPL but I still want it to sound well... I hooked up a Orion HCCA 15 D2 And was pretty satisfied but am kind of turned off since the H2 I had hopes for blew so easily... Cant make up mind between HCCA 15 D2, An…

Ok I have a IA 40.1 and need two 15 inch subs that will handle 2k rms each daily? I play a lot of screwed & chopped mixtapes so keep that In mind as low frequency extension is key in this install.. thanks

Recently I edited some music, and it had a few really low notes. Decided it was about time I moved my high pass up a little from 15hz. Did that and then for some reason decided it was a good idea to reset my gain even though it sounded perfect as is... As I was doing this and I had the gain all the way down and the deck paused, I noticed a fluttering whine coming from my subs. Thought it was a little weird cause I had never noticed it before. I forgot to mark where I had the gain before which was a mistake.. I tried to set the gain with a 40hz tone, but It was hard to tell where It actually started clipping, I was hearing distortion way before I should have. I thought I h…

Ok guys, I am going to do my best to describe my setup and goals for my next system. Please help if you have had experience with any of these subs! Right now I am running: 2007 Chrysler 300C 1- Fi Q15 4 cubes tuned to 30 hz. Cadence iA7 Optima Battery Big 3 I really like my Q but I want something LOUDER. I am willing to sacrifice some SQ for SPL. I miss my head splitting bass!!! However I DO NOT want to rid of the low end output that i love so much. Im sure any of these subs will sound good enough to suit my needs... that being said which one will be the loudest and still low on approx 1200w RMS power and i will make a new ported box to suit any subs need. I will be repla…

Hey guys, I'm new to these forums. Hopefully you are all enjoying your holidays. =) Anyways, I won't lie. I know little-to-nothing about car audio. I've been starting to pick some stuff up over the course of this past week, when I decided that I would like to start looking into subs/amps for my car. I own a 1998 Chevy Cavalier, and I currently have; Front Speakers - 4x6" JBL's (GTO6427) Click Rear Speakers - Energy 6x9" 3-Way's (ENC693X) Click Deck - Pioneer MP3 Deck w/ USB (DEH-P5000UB) Click I can't complain all that much about how things sound in my car, I really don't mind them. I'd just like to put some more power (specifically bass) into it now. When I first…

when someone say they are going to switch their speakers to active what does that mean and does it effect anything at all?

hey guys i need some help building a box for these bad boys, i'm purchasing 2 as soon as my paypal can get varified, so in the mean time i want to build a box for these, its my first time building a box and need some tips also. What would be a good amount of space for the subs, i was thinking around 4-5 cf total for the subs, tuned to 28-32hz, i'm not goin to compete or anything just want a pretty good street beater. i think i did some calcs i think the most i can fit in my car is 4.5 cf including port , but i might have to re-calc again, and any suggestions are welcome. thanx

Anyone here use around 600rms on a Mag 15? I am debating instead of adding another battery into the car to just downgrade the power going to it. 600rms would be half of what I'm sending to it now. Its in a sealed box. Think it owuld be a huge difference in output or does the Mag do really bad with that amount of power?

i have a friend that is set on a 3 way passive set up , he has a decent budget 800 bucks or so.... looking for something that will cover a great range sound good, needs to have a 1 inch tweeter for location reasons he was about to pull the trigger on a set of hertz milians or some shit... looking for options from you guys, i told him to just go active but hes not even a noob more like a boob and he was simplicity

I plan on getting a SI Mag D2 15 in the near future and I'm wondering what kind of box I can make to get the best of it. The limits of the trunk of my car are 16" high, 16" deep, and 36" long, or about a total of 4.2 cubes max internal volume. Would it make more sense to go for a large (~3 cubes) sealed enclosure (Decware Wedge style) or a amaller (~3 cubes after displacement and port) ported enclosure? Quality of sound is the most important factor, but I'd prefer lots and lots of that quality sound. The more headroom I can get, the happier I'll be. It will be powered by an Orion 1200D. It will replace two IA LI 12s sharing ~3.2 cubes at 32hz.

I've been researching some different subs that are priced around 100 to 150$. and i've been looking into the audioque sdc2.5 series ( as the title says ). I'm looking for a daily sub that can take a beating all day at rms and i wont have to worry about it. ( obviously right amp settings, etc ) I was thinking about either a wall in my explorer with 4 15's ( clamshell type box) or do a crx style box with 4 12's. I have more then enough room for both cause i have all of behind the back seat. demensions are like 52 wide 40ish deep and 40ish tall (estimations i dont remember the exact from when i last measured) Sq is important but i would like to compete locally and hopefully …

on the D2 12 info page, it states a 154db in the MECA M1 class. Who popped this number, and what show? thanks

I received my 12” Level 3 and was super excited when I opened it up. It is an amazing looking sub. However, once I pulled it out of the box, I saw that the braided wires (tinsel leads??) that connect to the terminals were disconnected on both sides (both terminals). Is this normal? And if so, is it something I can fix.

Hey guys, I was planning on getting the Oxygen audio Air-83 3-way component speakers.I liked the fact that they included a large mid-bass woofer, another decent sized mid-range and a tweeter all in one. Also, I liked how they were a component set because i do not know enough yet to run an active system. But the problem is that I waited too long and now amazon don't have them in stock. Does anyone know a comparable set? Like i said before, I'd like a large mid-bass and mid-range, component set with a passive crossover, and i would prefer not to pay through the nose to get them. Thanks guys!