Subwoofers / Speakers

I have some 6.5 comps in the doors right now, and some 4x6's in the dash if my s10. I was wondering what was the advantage to getting "better" door/dash speakers?? I have 2 rl-p 15"s in a ported box. Would it "add" to my bass?? Sorry if this is a noob question. I just want to justify soending more money on "better" speakers (mids/highs).

I recently ordered I'd CX62s to run off of my sundown 100.4. I want to find some 2 ohm comps that can handle around 150wrms and can be had for around or less than 200. I got my IDs for under 150 so hopefully it's possible.

So in the next month i will be starting a new box build. I am kind of good at this stuff but always look for others advice. So the new build will be for 2 Fi sp4 18" fully loaded subs. 1 Crescendo Audio bc5500d and 3 xs power xp3000 batts. Still have to find some one that makes an upgraded alt for my car(2004 Hyundai Elantra gt HB) that does not cost an arm and a leg. I will be removing the back seat building a large box and then walling around it the box size is going to be 48"w x 36"h x 30"d. Will be 1.5in thick with at 2.5in front plate. From what i came up with(been a while since i made a box) was a box that will have 15.98 cuft after porting. The port is 7in tall and…

Well here goes: I have 2 15" RE SX's and two Sundown Audio SAZ 1500d's. Problem is, the Fs of the SX is 27.8 and the box that I'm going to use(or was gonna use) is tuned to 54hz. Now being that the Fs is 27.8, it's not a SPL sub now I realize in a box that is tuned to 54hz.(I'm still learning I'm a semi-newb) I've heard the 15" SX in a 46hz tuned box with a 1000 watt DD amplifier and it sounded ok, but I've had a few people tell me, these 2 SX's are going to sound bad as in terrible in a 54hz box. Does anyone have any opinions/suggestions/solutions or alternatives? I may be switching sub's and if I have to whats a better alternative? I need 2 15's with the Fs around 34-…

just installed it after i finished the box http://s163.photobucket.com/albums/t288/au...ent=Thump_2.flv

2013 dodge charger, 180amp alternator. setup 1: 2 ported (32hz) SA12s on 1400rms amp @1ohm (700rms each) setup2: 3 sealed SA12s on 2400rms amp @1.3 ohm (615 rms each) Will the stock battery and amp be able to handle the 2nd setup? which of these is better for SPL and which for SQ? Any info will help, thanks. I am leaning towards 1st setup, just wanted to know if it was worth the 2nd. Im looking at a Hifonics GLX1400.1D

Ok so im working on my box and i have the option to do 2 8's or 1-12" aero port for my box. Im not sure which will be the better way to go and i know they equal roughlly the same thing. This is what im looking at. -2 Soundqubed SDC2.5 15s -Enclosure will be 8 cubes(4 cubes per sub) @ 40hz either way -Power for now 1600 rms(will soon be about 3k before rise and voltage drop aiming at 1k per sub) Ports: 2 8" Aeros - 100.48 sq inches / 8 cubes = 12.56 sq inches port per cube 1 12" Aero - 113.04 sq inches / 8 cubes = 14.13 sq inches port per cube The 1 12" will give me alittle more port per cube then the 2 8"s, also ive always seen and been told that less ports are more e…

which brand do you think is better in subs Kicker or MTX.

Sup.. I haven't posted on here in ages because I took an lil break from car audio for an while, but with every other hobby you get that itch again and get tired of not having bass in your vehicle. I'm in a lil dilemma here. I can't make up my mind on choosing on what subwoofers I should go with. I really want 2 10" because I've never ran 2 10s before. Only 12's, that's only what I have room for seeing that my trunk is really not that big..Here's what im aiming for. 2 10" ssa dcon 2 10" sa-10 or 1 12" sa 12 2 10" sdc2.5 1 12" hdc312 copper coil Also on each particular setup, what would be the suitable amplifier is recommended and I'm going to be build my own ported bo…

i got to thinking today and was wondering how this would work out.... Lets say you have a driver that is rated at 1000 rms watts, so you give it 1000 rms at 4 ohms and no problems. Now you get an amp that does 1000rms at 1 ohm is it the same to the driver???? I was just wondering if the BL of the sub would come into play or if 1000 is 1000 no matter what. Just wondering how it all would be effected. Thanks, Brock

I have been learning of some new brands as I have been on here. Let me rephrase, I have learned of brands I have never even heard of before. So in this light I thought maybe peps would give a shout out to all the quality brands they have ever had or heard of because I fell so left out, here in the sticks.

um so i got my system hooked up and i crank it up for a bit and this smell comes out of nowhere, i think its the stuff melting around the cone, either that or my Voice coil is layin on the beach. But it is still playin jsut fine.... any ideas??

i found this design on the web, and i was wondering how good it is. i know absolutly nothing about these types of designs. i would like to learn how they work, so if someone could elaborate a little it would be great....at least if this design is anywhere near accurate...

My IXL's are getting delivered today, on the SSA site it says 800wrms, on the Mach 5 site it says 1000. Which is correct?

hey guys, if i needed a level 2 or 3 in a dual 2 ohm configuration, can you make that happen for me??

After seeking help from numerious forums..(ROE, Termpro, SSA, and SMD) I've narrowed down my box design to just two for my DC LvL4 18. I just do know which one I want to build. Should I go with box 1 or box 2 Box 1: Tuning is now looking right at around 33Hz. Box 2: Tunning is around 30Hz

Anyone got a large Stereo Integrity logo as jpg, .psd, .tif, etc i want to make a speaker grill, but i need a logo so i can etch out some plexi. travis

Im trying to decide which 12" sub i want in my car (its a 75 Chevy Nova hatchback). I listen to almost nothing but rap and i want to be very loud with one 12. Amp is a sae-1200dv1,im going to do the big 3 in 1/0 gauge,and i replaced my alternator when i rebuilt my engine but i have no idea how many amps it is. My budget is $350 so ive been looking at the Mach 5 spl,fi bl,and aq hdc3 copper...open to suggestions,i will make the optimum enclosure for whichever 12 i get. Im leaning toward the mach 5 or aq for when i want to upgrade my power instead of having to add another sub and amp.

Has anyone tried painting the cone of a subwoofer? I know that you cant really use regular paint because of adding weight to the cone and changing the t/s parameters. But is there anyway to do this, I am just trying to completely black out the sub. So you dont see the company logo. I want a clean black sub. Any opinions would be appreciated. I dont want to go with sharpie option either.

Got my 2 15" xl's in love every moment of them they are absolutly amazing I was wondering how much of a difference will there be after they get a good chance to break in?

Simple question...what is the best way to break them in? Any specific notes i should try...maybe a sweap? 30hz-100hz? Sumthing like that?

is there ANY vids whatsoever of the evil subs in action? i wana see!

using my kenwood excelon x10d - 600rms at 2ohms (1ohm stable but no power rating). which would be the better sub. i listen to metal, rock, alternative rock. basicly nice accurate bass with some decent kick is the goal. i have polk db 5.25 and 1000(1in tweets) up front and 6x9s in the rear. all off the the sony hu (cdx gt310) the aa would be alittle overpowered and the fi could be run at 1ohm or 2ohm depending on vc options budget it under $200 if anyone has another option that sould be considered.

So I'm coming from a Q, it's in about 2 cubes and tuned to 30hz. I'm powering it with an MD2 being a bit conservative on the gain. The output is pretty good for a twelve in a trunk car and the lows are thunderous, but I want something that will also play the upper frequencies 45-60 a bit louder than the Q does. Lookin for something with the same punchiness of the Q also. Probably looking at 2 12's sealed, I think I'll be satisfied with the output there and I can turn it down if needed. Only subs I've considered were the SE and the SSD w/ a copper coil, possibly the TC-9 too. Any help/suggestions are welcome, I'm open to anything.

and it was like a driver that you could attach to a subwoofer box that was an alternative to porting or sealing a box. I belive it was called an Independant Radiator Driver or something to that nature. It looked like a regular speaker... had a cone and surround and what not but had no motor and i dont belive it had magnets either. So my question is... a.) if anyone knows what the hell im talking about b.) if so have they heard them in action