Subwoofers / Speakers

http://www.ubid.com/actn/opn/getpage.asp?AuctionId=10449528 Just a heads up for their old subs B)

Including batteries, subs, amps, alts, etc, what is the best way i could get a decent hairtrick done without spending $7,000? I would prefer quality brands like kinetik, fi, re, hifonics is fine if the amp is worth it, im sure you all know which brands are good enough just no sony explod shit lol. Since im in a car right now and looking for an suv, i can't say which suv exactly but probably like a trailblazer or explorer or something that this equipment would go in. Thanks

Hello everyone! Was wondering if people could help me. I currently have the following... 2 12" JL Audio W3v2 2ohm 1 Rockford Fosgate T1000.1BD I built a 3.5 cu/in ported box for them and they sound fine. Problem is the box is the wrong dimensions for the 2008 Civic Si Coupe. My current available space is.. H = 15" W = 37" D = 18" preferably smaller Those are the MAX dimensions that will fit in my trunk. I am not worried about the opening to the truck as I will build the box in the trunk if I have too. What I am wondering is if anyone has a box build that would work for the SA 12's that would work for my Civic. Just need the outside box dimensions and port dimensions …

hello ssa just wanted to know if i strapped a rockford bd3000 on either a fi btl 15" or a DD 9515" in a good ported box to specs...which will produce more numbers? and also sound better doing it?

On certain bass beats my rlp 12 makes a funny noise. Its the kick drum or bass punch type that makes it do the sounds. Its being run by a saz 1000d. Blowjob unit . . i mean head unit is the discontinued pioneer deh-p440 if that helps any. It runs through test tones without making the sound. I took it out of the box and visually nothing looks wrong. I pushed down on the cone and heard no scraping. It makes the sound at not even half excursion and can only be heard when i come close to it but i know its not healthy for the sub. It sounds like its heavily distorting but with a more metallic sound to it if that makes sense. Does anybody have any ideas? Did something get stuck…

i have a 3500d and was wondering what would be better in all aspects and sheer output? would the BTL's fully loaded or nightshades be better in my situation. either choice will have box build big enough due to it going in an suv and tuned between 30-35hz might change what i tune it too, but it is for a daily set up. and if anyone wannts to throw in opinions about the xcon or ia death penalty feel free. electrical is 250h/o alt, with 3 batteries including the one under the hood. subs will be facing up with port back. port will be running along the bottom instead of right or left side.

Hello all, Brief run down 1999 Corvette with a custom box i made a few years ago Corvette box Well after 8 years of service my JL 10w3-4(dvc) (original ones) finally is giving out. I was doing some reading on a few forums and came accross the dcon as a great preformer for the money. However with my box im very limited on options. I need to know the width of the magnet, also if anyone has a picture of maybe the speaker with a measuring tape down so i can see where the basket protrudes. I have an ancient sony xplod amp 360rms @ 4ohms, not looking to build another box just want to drop in another sub and play. According to the instructions i followed on the build of t…

i am working on a build and would like some feedback/info on my porting. a have a box that is net 7.5 cu ft. going to run 2 hdc3 15s and was going to tune around 35 hz . i figured on running 2 4inch aeroports and have come up with around 4 inch length on each for this tuning. does this seem right or am i wrong on my figuring. thanks a bunch for any info and opinions

I have a collection of some older subs and some newer subs. All are working. I can use series/parallel wiring to obtain pretty much any total load I want. Is there a way to check to see if any individual sub is less output than the rest?

Does anyone know if anybody makes a custom carbon fiber dust cap for a 10" ssa gcon?

which do you think is better for for a good LSQ setup. i have never heard any of them in person and want to make sure i get something i will like. and i would like to try it in a ported box. will have a round port if it matters 10" re audio sx series 10" re audio se series 10" fi bl 10" soundsplinter rl i

Any thoughts on which one of these 15" subs would be helpful. RE Audio SE '08 series aluminum spoke basket design---OR---Oz Audio Matrix Elite series??? Both of these are the same price which makes it even more difficult to choose. Looking for SQ so it will be going into a sealed box. Both are 4 ohm dvc wired to a 2 ohm load as my amp is only 2 ohm stable (boston acoustics gt-28 1100x1 @ 2 ohms)

I finally built my box ! (4 sq. ft vented to 28 hz) and 1500 brutus for the 15" SI. Problem is....I NEED THE SUB NOW! Whats the deal SI!! its the middle of june!

Found a great deal on ebay for Hertz HSK 165 and Mille MLK 2 . 2011 models . I was reading about the Mille having tweeter protection ,is this a good thing to have ? Are hertz really that good ? I've heard nothing but good reviews about them . The tweeter protection concerns me cause my Orion HCCA would cut out at loud levels but i dont think they were distorting . It had to replace them cause of that . Is it worth an extra $100 for the Mille series or should the HSK high Energy be enough ? I have about 125+ rms clean per channel from my ESX 1204 amp Thanks

okay so i have 1 set of components right now and it was reading 4ohms at the amp i got another set and was short of wires right now so i just jumped off the first 2 figuring i would just run 2ohms untill i get more wire in so thats 2 6.5s and 2tweets and now at the amp i am STILL reading 4ohms i poped doors back apart aech driver is reading 2ohms on driver side they are in series running to passive crossovers but when i check input side of the crossover it reads 4ohms no matter how many speakers i put to it i even tried running all 4 to 1 channel and i still get 4ohms could the crossover have a way to change the load like this?

okay i just went to a competition and though i did good but i want to go louder. i have a mostly rockford fosgate system. this is what i have (2) sets of sony component sets (1) T400-4 for the mids and highs (1) T1500-1BDCP for the subwoofer (1) T2D415 the subwoofer is wired down to 2-ohms Pioneer priemer 3200-ub head unit stock 90 amp alt (2) batteries one is a yellow top and the other is a shuriken 80 amp battery 0 gauge wire throughout the car big 3 done on front and back battery box is a 4 c.u. ft. ported and tuned to 36hz the car is a 1996 eclipse rs hatchback i hit 141.0db in stock 2 of the idbl competition im stuck deciding between re audio and fi but open to more…

RE MT15 + Kicker ZX2500.1 @1.4ohms + 4.5cubes @33hz w/ 90 in^2 of port = wangage? Keep in mind I have 125 sq. feet of SecondSkin Damplifier applied on my truck, including near 3 layers on the roof, the back wall, and the side walls... and two on the doors. Too bad it didn't get the part of my bed flexing like it did the back window... it's crazy worse in person ... It's pretty sick in the truck, I'm pretty confident it's the loudest daily 1sub setup in the Tri-State... but who cares... Without further ado... http://realmofexcursion.com/videos/REAudio/mt15.8.wmv nG

Ok, to start off I'll say that I am tired of listening to my stock speakers. They aren't really that bad (well I have nothing that would be "good" to compare them to) but they need some help. I'm kinda working my toward a more SQ geared install. I still need to be able to crank it and watch my passengers cringe in pain and shock, lol. So now that you know what this thread is about I'll now start of with what I have and what I am waiting on and what plans I have for the future. What I have: I have a 03 Ford F-150 Reg Cab. The truck is as bone stock as you get, manual locks, windows, I mean plan as plan jane you can get. I currently have a Eclipse 8445 head unit. I a…

I have a bit of a delima. I am going to have two 8" subs and planned to put them in my truck, but I now realize I have quite a bit less space than first anticipated. My question is, would it be better to place one sub in more space, or to put both of them into quite a bit less space? The subs are soundsplinter rl-i8's, and I have about .72ft^3 total to work with. That would be about .28ft^3 per driver after displacement. Or I could put just one in about .64ft^3 after displacement. So which would produce more output, one with more space or two with less. I will be pushing it with a memphis amp which gives 1100 rms at 1 ohm.

they hurt when you drop them on your toes.... hehe

Just as the topic says im looking for 2 zcon 12's...if anyone has em just let me know some prices

I need help troubleshooting a new speaker install/upgrade. I just installed Boston Acoustics in front and rear. SR60 6.5 components in front and SR95 6x9 in the rear deck of a 96 Impala SS. The problem is now the rear sounds much flatter and the front is way too bright up high. These were upgrades to 12 year old Boston 6.5s and Pioneer 6x9s. Old speakers sounded fine but I wanted better sound and a bit louder. Old speakers were 50w rms and new are 80-85 rms. Amp is 100x4 rms and I also have on a seperate 450w mono amp a 300W Pioneer 10' shallow sub in a sealed box inside the cabin, not the trunk. Location of the 6.5 components up front are, woofer mounted in the do…

just interested to know how it performs? and is it possible?

my tweeters are tyring to pump out way to many vocals whats the easiest way to cut some lower frequencies? I'm hoping its as easy as putting some capacitors inline with the tweeter

i wood like to find a crossfire xs spl v1 12" blown not blown or just the motor