Subwoofers / Speakers

I'm currently saving up money for a system but I'm kinda having a hard time deciding on a subs. My options are 4 Mach 5 MJ18's or 4 Fi SSD15's. I want a loud daily driver and I would only do local comps, maybe. They would be put in their recommended ported box and they will be run off of a SAZ-3000d when it comes out. I know the SSD's are going to be more than double the cost of the mj18's but if they're worth it I would get them. What should I do?

Well I don't see a video topic for dc audio. So let me start 2 level 4 15 trunk flex but eh

Anyone know where i can get the enclosure specs for the new Li abd I series drivers? I looked on their site but found nothing. Thanks

i need your guys help with this. i am looking at buying a new sub(s). right now the sub i have in mind are either 2 10" shocker 3's or 1 15" nightshade. either setup will be in proper box with enough power. im just need to know which would be louder. also the box will be tuned to 35hz. goin in a 01 monte carlo with proper electrical.

We use a QSC Line Array setup for virtually every show we do, even in smaller areas. The disadvantage is price and setup time. The advantage is more even coverage over the area. In our situation we simply use two stacks each consisting of a KW181 Sub and two KLA12 tops. Typically we try to place them on the stage far left and right and aimed slightly inward. The thing to remember with line arrays is that to retain the advantage of the line array you need significantly less overall volume than you might be used to in a conventional setup. In a conventional setup you're depending more on volume to fill an area, but because there's less loss of sound vertically, things …

just picked this up used. hopefully have it going by april biggest ported box i can fit is 3.2 cubes net tuned to 33 hz. gonna try that out and maybe go sealed if it doesn't work out

I'm thinking about sending my blown 12" Adire Brahma MKIII to Scott over at Fi to get it reconed. Finding info on the MKIIIs is difficult. In fact, before Adire shut down, they had the MKIV in their current line up, and had a link to discontinued models. In that link, there's the Brahma MKI and MKII but nowhere was a MKIII mentioned. Anyway, according to my research, the MKI and MKII is rated at 1,600 Watts RMS, and the MKIII and MKIV is rated at 600 Watts RMS. I can't find anything explaining why there's a 1,000 Watt difference between the MKII and MKIIIs but I don't have a problem with that. I've also read that the a Brahma (I'm guessing MKI/II) can reach full excu…

Hello, I have a pair of 302's coming soon from SI. I was wondering if anyone knows the dimensions on these things. Specifically the mounting flange overall diameter and the cutout diameter. Also cutout diameter for the tweets and mounting flange size (l x w) would help to. I am nearing the end of my trunk install and need to focus on some mounting rings for the mids and tweets. I want to be able to position, fleece and glass once they get here. Nick, Sundownz, K-mart I think you guys all have experience with these. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Jim

What design is better a 4th order ported box or a 4th order passive radiator box with a one to one ratio (passive to active). The radiator seems to have so many more advantages... so why does everyone have ported boxes?? looking for some ideas and opinions on this, might redo my box soon.

this may sound funny but I built a new box today and the program from baec1 say that it is 2.1 after displacement and tuned to about 29 htz when I put the sub on I had a pop sound on heavy bass notes but I can't tell if it is coming from the sub or the port same amp as last box had to turn the gains down in the new box for fear of damage but I never heard this with the old box which was about 2.4 at 33 htz I did notice that I did not screw the port board to the top of the box only the bottom has anyone had this and does it sound like the pop from the sub next box is going to be sealed I am not smart enough for making ported boxes :thud:

take a look : http://www.bostonacoustics.com/car/car_pro...&product_id=373 kinda cool idea, but who's got coils in they're toolcase in case the sub gets fried ? whatcha think about it ?

One of my my Hertz HSK-165 tweeters came loose and I slammed it in the door... The housing cracked but it still plays. I was just wondering if there was anything I could replace it with that would work crossed at 3500 on a 12db slope? Replacement tweets are not an option. Don't need a lecture on buying authorized either. I bought these knowing there was no warranty.

Looking at a set of used CDT CL-61 6.5. They come with tweeters and crossovers too. What to you guys think. How good will they sound?? i listen to old school rock and rap.

ok so im helping a buddy of mine build a sub box for his truck its a regular cab F-150 the sub is a 12" TE model treo sub it has for ported specs from their website: 1.6 cu ft net ,16sq in vent, 18.5 in long, F3=31HZ so i design a wedge box with the dimensions of : Height = 13.5" , width= 40.25" , upper depth = 7" , lower depth = 8.5" he wants it tune to 31Hz so i came up with these dimension for the ports: two 2" ports on each end about 5 in long know i really not sure if this is right or not was wondering if someone could give me there opinion. i dont have a box building program so i did this all my hand just some math work. thanks for your time!

I have noticed over the past few days my SPL15 was starting to rattle. I just pulled it out today and noticed the dust cap is coming loose on one side. Do I need to use any sort of special glue to fix? I was thinking of using some superglue. I also was considering epoxy but it dries too slow. Thanks

My 1977 Buick regal came stock with 6x9's in the rear deck...ive gotta replacem...what are some good budget 6x9's in the $150 and under range?

Hello. I am new here and looking for an answer to an easy question. I have a 2002 Civic and I am looking at a Q Logic Custom sub box. First, does anyone have any experience with those units. Second, the volume of the Q Logic enclosure is 0.65 cu. ft. The Fi Q I am looking at calls for 0.2-0.6 cu. ft. of volume, but it has a 0.12 cu. ft. displacement. Does this mean the Q Logic would work? The way I am calculating it is that 0.65-0.12=0.53 cu. ft. volume after installation. Thank you in advance for the help. Nick

ok, i am getting a new 15" (when they send these bad boys out). but i want to make a small sealed box, close to 2 cf. This is going to be put into a Saab 9000 hatchback. Also i have viped d1200.1. I have two box ideas, 1 is just a rectangle, and the other is a wedge design, witht the woofer facing somewhat at an angle. also i overhan the long peices over the sides. which one would sound better in my car?

Dont know much about the RE SX, XXX or the MT 12 subwoofer, just saying how how they compare to the Kicker L7 12 or the Soundstream T4 12? Do they need a ported box or a sealed box? About how much each one run in price have $1200 for the box, subs and amp?

This is one big bitch i cant wait to compete with it on saturday

Wonder if you can post movies. About to find out. Hopefully a pair of 15l7's with some excursion. I guess you can do movies:) I might have 30-35 movies:) Kicker_15L7.mpeg

well today at school my friend brought his explorer into the shop for an oil change....i could help but notice a huge "M" on his back window and knew what it was when i saw it. hes got 2 15" memphis mojo's and 2 MC2000D's powering them. his chit was slappin hard as hell. i have never heard memphis subs before and was thoroughly impressed by them. one of the loudest setups with 2 15's ive heard next to btls... what would you say are comparable subs to the mojo's...do a lot of people run them? what do you guys think about them in general...worth the money?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Brand-New-LANZAR-OPTI1532D-15-2600W-Car-Subwoofer-/250686073052?pt=Car_Subwoofers_Enclosures&hash=item3a5e0de8dc#ht_1547wt_1270 What a Rip!

A mid made by CIARE (Italian company) for Car Audio. They have a bunch of products home and car... even horns like ID but I don't know what they are worth. http://oaudio.de/media/products/0861656001182438423.pdf I was thinking of pairing those with my ID CD1v.3 horns for a 2way front stage. The new version has pretty much the same specs except for the Fs = 75hz // Re = 3ohm // Qts = 0.16 // Qes = 0.16 // Qms = 4.88 // Mms = 13.19. Your opinion appreciated, Kelvin

I am going for a SQ setup and I am going to be doing this in a Dodge ram crew cab. My question is, would you put one really good set of components up front and leave the rears stock or would you put a good set of components up front and a good set of coaxials in the rear? The price would be pretty much the same. Any help is greatly appreciated.