Subwoofers / Speakers

Was flipping around eBay and noticed a 10" Magnum for sale. Then I woke up .. darn it. The Hammer

same sub, same amps, same xover, same tuning, same port area. one box is 6 cubic feet and another box is 8 cubic feet. what will the audible difference be? i know the smaller box will require more power to move the same amount but aside from power handling does the ability to reproduce certain frequencies become effected?

My friend is finishing up his system and is in the market to buy a 10 inch subwoofer. He is going to run it sealed and we have narrowed the selection down the Icon or the RL-I. We decided to run it off a sundown 100.2 bridged and from what i have heard i believe it puts out about 500 watts at 4 ohms. Can it be run at 2 ohms? Also in terms of SQ does the RL-I take it?

Wooo, just got paid today time to get the ball rollin on the 12 D2.. :ph34r: :boink:

I recently acquired 2 Crescendo PWX 10's and was looking into adding one to my car to help over all output. I have three ideas for setting this up. First the speaker/s will be put in a custom fiberglass box to fit behind my center console in between the back seat. The speaker/s will be firing towards the front windshield. I have Type R 6.5 components up front and coaxial 6x9's in the back. The addition will be powered by a 2 channel MTX RT2100X amp. Here are my three ideas. 1. Bridge the amp on 4 ohms and run a single PWX 10 at 280 wrms and count on the Type R tweets being enough to keep up. 2. Run a single PWX on one channel at 85 wrms and a pair Selenium St200's runni…

Which one of these would be louder in 1.75 cubes each tuned to 33hz powered by a RF power series 500 watt amp?

I got my fiberglass box done sorta. It is done to the point that I can get an internal volume. I packed about 15 gallons of packing peanuts in there. That gives me roughly 2 cubic feet. I know peanuts are not the most accurate, but that seemed like the easiest way. So anywho, I have about 1200w to throw at a Magnum that I am gonna get. Should I go ahead and put something in there to take up some space or let it ride and see how it goes? Then make it smaller if need be? Do you trust the peanut method? I don't want to buy a bunch of sand and then have to vacuum it out. What do you guys think? Thanks - Jim

How do these compare to a kicker 12" cvr? I am looking at getting a sundown sae-1200d to drive 2 12" dc level 3s. Currently I am running a kicker zx400.1 driving a 12" kicker cvr.

In the 2.0 cubic foot recommended box, how much power can they stand for burping? At what point does the added power stop increasing SPL? I am wondering the difference in 600 wat per driver to maybe 2000 per drive on a burp . Which may be somewhat "extreme".

I have about 2.3 cuft to work with, my amp will do 800rms bridged at 4ohm, and i have 200 bucks. i want to go with a single 15. i have been looking at DD audio, DC sound labs, Fi, soundstream, and mb quarts. i am not real familiar with DD, DC, or Fi. any suggestions. My listening preference is wide. At 2.3 cuft I may have to go sealed.

So according to 12volt subwoofer wiring diagram I can wire two 2ohm DVC subwoofers to either 0.5 ohm OR 2ohm I can also wire only ONE of those subwoofers to 1ohm My question is, if I want to stick to 1ohm using those two 2ohm DVC subwoofers Can I just wire EACH sub to 1ohm, then run them to the amp each SEPARATELY from each other so that I keep 1ohm resistance? I have a Sundown 2000D

Well, I currently have two TC-7's being pushed by a RF 1000-1db. They are in a ported box, which I don't know the tuning of, but each chamber (to rec. specs) has a 13'' long 3'' wide precision port. I am thinking about getting a single Fi, so I can retain loudness, but gain quality. But then again, do you think I would be best off sealing my subs? I listen to mainly rap, but I want more quality then I currently have. I drive a 2002 honda civic si hatchback, so it is a TINY car, and gets loud easy.

I just put my system in my car from the old one and I've had a bit of problems. Its a small system and only 1 10"sub and 1 amp powering the sub. The amp has power i've tried wiring the sub for r +, l - and r -, l + on the amp The sub setting on the deck is on and set to max The sub doesn't get a signal, doesn't hit at all Any ideas on what i can do next to figure out whats going on? Thanks alot

Monday turned out to be nice so I decided that I would tackle the task of removing the rear speakers.I cant believe the buzzing & rattling that was caused by all the bass being trapped in the trunk.Well I must say theres a big difference ,I feel alot more bass coming in and filling the cabin.Just incredible what 1-12 can do if installed correctly and given the right power.It took me 1 1/2 hrs to remove the deck speakers and if I wanted to put them back aleast the process would go alittle faster(I hate molding fasteners).Anyone with a '02-'04 Camry needing help with an installation,Holla,I'm ur boi!.....I think I need a massage :thud:

I saw this post a while ago and there's something I've been wondering. I would say that I personally think the Xcon could take the Havoc ported. However, from what I understand the Havoc's get suprisingly loud sealed. How are the Xcons sealed? Comparing the AA Havoc 15 Vs. Xcon 15 sealed, either powered off a Sundown 1500 watt in 3 - 3.5 cubes sealed.

Its very rarely I truly want a specific subwoofer. The spl-15 has done it.. I really like the 12, but wanted bigger. I like the idea of supporting a company that will support you and be willing to help advice like mach-5 does. And at the prices Marks doing the spl-15 for its crazy not to pick one up. It looks to be in the same league with $600-1000 subs. So guys I really want Mark to go ahead with the build.... SO what I'm really trying to say is buy a damn woofer Thanks, Joe

Alright, as the topic says, I'm looking for a component set for my Thunderbird. I currently have a pair of Infinity Kappa coaxial speakers in it. They are 6x8 and that is what my bird is designed for. I'm looking to spend no more that $250 on a set. They will be powered by a RF P400.4 amp. I have no problem fabricating some MDF size reducers if necessary. This is my only place of reference really, and I trust most all of your opinions. No one around my area has any type of aftermarket stereo, so I really can't demo anyone. Over all what I'm looking for is something that can get loud, but still sound clean. Any suggestions or previous experience with a certain p…

i wanted to mount another set of tweeters in my door just to even out my h/u as i have my mids in the rear running off the rear outputs .... i was looking for a pair of tweeters under $100 ... they are running off the h/u so they will not be seeing over 20 rms ... i dont know if it makes a difference but all the tweeters up front are silk dome ... should the pair i am looking for be silk dome? ... also they need to not stick out so much as when i had boomer mcloud cut a hole for the door they cut it so close the the tweeter hits when the door closes ... it dosent tend to be a problem if the tweeter does not protrude to much and has some form of protective grille over it .…

I found a pair of the red stamped steel basket MTX road thunder twelves next to a dumpster outside my apartment the other day; while not being as loud, they sound considerably nicer than my lanzars; they seem to be an ancient model, but I was wondering if anyone could point me in the direction of finding a few more for a low power install for my coworker? http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=293-352

i stopped at an audio shop ive gave a lot of business to and saw where they are now carrying dd and ia. he said he had a 12" ia lethal injection they used for 3 burps and said he would take 200 for it. im thinking i should give it a shot . . . any suggestions?

I am looking to build a DIY 6.5 component set to set up in my car after I deaden the doors. I was thinking of using the Mli-65 mid but wasn't sure on the tweeter maybe these tang bands http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=264-840 My real question was, regardless of components I pick, what is the best way to cross them over? I have a HPF option on the JVC HU at 55hz, 85hz, and 125hz, then my alpine amp has a HP/LP filter from 50-400hz.

hey, i bought a fi bl 15 with the flatwind, cooling, and daily options. I am tryin to decide between 2 amps. Rockford t1000-1bd or t1500-1bd. They're both the new '09 edition. any suggestions? thanks

ok i know ive bugged a few of you guys enough but before i go and drop 2000+ on a new system i want to make sure im getting something that will most defiantly be the loudest chit on the block. I am leaning way towards 2 18" btls fully loaded running off a RF t40001bd. what would you guys go with that will still maintain a decent sq and pick up lows fully without distortions.

Hey I am thinking about getting at least one sub for my car. I listen to almost everything. I am looking for something that will sound nice and not too hard hitting. I am looking more for sound quality than noise. I also would like to know what amp I should get to power it. Any help I can get will be much appreciated.

Hi all, As per my newbies post, I've been hanging around for some time, and have now registered to enjoy the full support and knowledge of the SSA members! The sub and box size are not optional here, that's all I have to play with. For power I have 1400 @ 1 Ohm, 625 @ 2 Ohms or 312 @ 4 Ohms. I was dead set on an Audiopulse EPIC 8, but have not been able to find one for love or money! So now I have a real dilemma... simply put, which sub should I buy? I am looking ultimately for SQ, but do want it to get loud whilst retaining that SQ. I have looked at the SoundSplinter, TREO SSi, MA Audio, Elemental Designs, Digital Designs, Image Dynamics, Eclipse and RE to name but a few…