Subwoofers / Speakers

I've had this sub for a few years just sitting in the garage. It has a hole in the rubber surround and one set of terminals broke off. I've attempted to fix both things, but I'm not sure about the enclosure size. It seems that the sub is so old that I can't find any info on it. I wanted to try and make a ported box, but now I'm kind of thinking on just making something around .75ft^3

So I just bought an Alpine Type-R 12" sub (dual 4 ohms). I had it wired at 4 ohms initially, because I was trying to "break it in" like I was told over and over. I wired it down to 2 ohms after a few weeks to get the full power, and after a few days, it took a shit. I'm not quite sure why. The wiring was done professionally too. My amp (Alpine MRP M500), is essentially perfect for the sub, and the box was 1.94 cubes (recommended is 1.0 - 2.0). I don't know what happened. So if anyone might have an idea why, I'd GREATLY appreciate it. This was my first sub; I'm 16, and I can't go out and buy a new one whenever I like. And this is off topic, but it's a big concern as well…

i have a pair of diamond audio s600 hex 6.5 speakers and recently the tweeters blew....i am using the supplied crossover.....i have tried to find replacement tweets but have had no luck......so my question is does any one know where i could get some or can i use a dif brand thanks.

Seems like I read a lot of posts regarding people blowing or ruining their Fi sub for various reasons, causing them to get a re-cone... My question is, are these subs easy to destroy? They seem very durable and underrated, which makes me think the opposite, but after reading on here it seems not to be the case.. I want to get a better idea as to why there are so many cases of Fi subs needing re-cones, and not other subs, like AA or SSA... Any thoughts?

i was looking at buying the mmats p2.5 10's to replace my memphis M3's since they are reasonably close in volume recommended in a sealed inclosure 0.65 cu ft. wondering what other subs there might be besides the mmats?

Well a friend of mine bought two Ample Audio ACWD 150 15's, for a price i guess no one would refuse $30, and wants me to build a box for him. The problem is I've searched the internet far and wide, and emailed tech support at ample audio for t/s parameters and enclosure recommendations all to no avail. So I'm hoping some one here on this forum has dealt with the subs before and can help me out. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

So my subwoofer (Alpine Type R 12") is dual voice coil 4 ohm. Now what I'm confused with is it's wiring down to 2 ohms (for 500 watts RMS). I wired down to "2 ohms", but is that per voice coil, making it 4 ohms, thus leaving me with only 300 watts RMS? If so, does that mean I'd have to wire it down to 1 ohm, making it 2 ohm total? Basically what I'm asking is if the ohms are per voice coil, or total. Any help would be great! This would really make things clear.

Hey guys. I noticed the prices dropped a little bit on the new TC Sounds drivers. The LMS-R 12 is now $269. Anyone here have any experience with the newer TC drivers? I know the old ones were well praised. How would the lms-r compare to an Icon? I am just always curious and noticed the price and I just started thinking.

i have a set of 18 inch treo ssx's and im really thinking about buying some smd 18s. should i use the treos or buy the smd's? OR should i use the $ and buy something else. for power right now i have a saz3500, and i have access to a diablo hellfire 8000/1. the car is a 07 magnum with about 15-16 cuft....gross dimensions...b4 port and subs some one please help

I figured I would share... I bought these a few months back dirt cheap. I was planning on using them in my car, but they are just too damn big for my doors. I wanted a bit more bottom end up front then my Hertz Milles were delivering. I love the Mille tweet, but I missed the bottom end of my CDT ES-06s. Anyways, I took some shots of it next to my ES-06. A single Anarchy weighs in at about 8 pounds apiece. For comparisons sake, the box with both my ES-06s weighed in at 6 pounds. I thought the ES-06 was huge when i first got them. Bigger then any other 6.5 mids I can recall having my hands on by a long shot. Without a doubt they are the heaviest mids, by a mile... I figured…

Just another fail in the recent line of events affecting my car... Immediately realized I'd blown one woofer the other night when it stopped playing and the car filled up with a sickening burning scent, pulled the box out today only to discover not only did I have one crunchy woofer, but other one was not far behind! These woofers have more than fulfilled my expectations and have had a long healthy life of two years, no BP Option, run at 100W over spec. Kudos to Fi for building such solid woofers. So now, I sit bassless... thinking about my next project!! I love the output these guys had, but I also missed my trunk space... many times a spare tire would've come in handy! …

is it ok to use speaker wire from canadian tire on a btl 15 dual 2 or a brand company off the internet

New woofers coming! Details will be coming on a slow but consistent basis. What can I tell you so far? More XMAX than the "SQL", higher power handling, multiple coil configurations, larger coils, bigger magnets, etc. Price? Well...you'll get a lot of bang for your buck. STAY TUNED!!!! :dj:

what sub will handle 3k rms daily?

hi i bought a btl 15 fully loaded just wonderin what gauge size the wires should be

I am wondering how these subs would compare as far as sound quality and SPL. , both 15" . Both powered by either sundown SAZ 1000d or a rockford t1000bd. I want to get a good quality sub and I am leaning toward the ICON but I am wondering if the SSD is a close enough match to save some money.

Hi guys I am trying to figure out what is the best sub for around $200 that I can get. Here are my criteria: 15" 1000 rms More for SPL than SQ ~$200 I would prefer 1ohm stable but doesn't really matter.... My amp is a AQ1200D-rated at 870rms @ 2ohms and 1200rms @1ohm.... So far I am leaning towards the Alpine Type-R 15", many people have positive reviews about it... What other subs could I look at? thanks in advance!

how much better is the mmats p2.5 vs the memphis m3's im lookin to buy some new 10's without changing enclosures and spending to much money.

To start off with, I have a 2000 Silverado ext.cab with RF 400.4 on mids/highs. Diamond Audio m361 components in the front doors and m341 components in the ream so I have quality mids/highs to hang with the subs I choose. I want to go with 2 12" subs in a 1.15cub ft box per sub(sealed). I will be running a RF BD1500.1 on the subs, at 13.8volts it puts out 1,627watts @ 2ohms. I was dead set on the IA Lethal Injection's, but I wanted to know what was everyone's impression of the FI Q. How does it compare to the LI in the air space I have and what are the pros and cons of each? I know the LI's come fully loaded, but you have to pay for the extras in the FI Q. I want s…

i have a set of the hybrid clarus c61-2s. i let them break in for a few days and decided to tune them today. everything sounded great until my right tweeter cut out. the mid on the right side and the left tweeter and mid are fine though. tried different songs. and it cuts out on songs with alot of highs. i have a kenwood kdc-X994. ive tried setting the gains with volume 25/35 30/35 and 35/35. i emailed kenwood and they said theis headunit doesnt clip at any volume. i adjusted the gains everythime i changed the volume and it still cuts out. if i turn the gains down the tweeter is ok but im eally losing output. checked both tweeters with a dmm and they read the same. cant …

So i decided to upgrade my frontstage and ordered a sundown sax 100.2 off db-r, it does 100w rms x 2 @ 4 ohm and 200x 2 @ 2 ohm. Now im looking for some component speakers. ive never looked into good door speakers. i just replaced my stock door speakers with cheap 6x8 3 way pioneer speakers from walmart and was fine with that for awhile. but now id like to get something thatll sound better and actually provide some midbass. any suggestions and recommendations are appreciated, i have no experience with upgrading my front stage so any input helps. my budget is around 200, i can spend a little more if i have to. i think i want to run them at 4 ohms

Hi, im planning on ordering 2 fi q 15's today. i was just wondering wether i should bother for getting the cooling, the I heat ring, ETC. please let me know your opinion, thanks

Ok i know this is the ohm load i want but are the coils that are run + to - being used or just the + to + and - to - ones being used Thanks

1999 mercedes benz kompressor c230 I plans are to stay full IA apart from components/coaxials via CDT. But I don't consider this a car really "usable" for spl so i'm at a loss as to what I should go for now, original plans were 6 10" 187 in a s10 extended cab on a new 20.1 but... didn't go that route and this is what I ended up with for 3000 dollars. Hey, it's a benz I still would like to do the 20.1 down the road but i'm at a total loss as to what subs to try now as room/trunk would be an issue, never had a trunk car so i'm unsure how those setups work exactly. Anyone have any suggestions as to what size/sub to try ( sticking with IA ) to give me the bass i'd like but …

Will SA-8's perform well in a sealed box for midbass (80hz-250hz)? I honestly have no idea what makes for a good midbass driver vs subwoofer. any input would be appreciated