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Nice thats what i like to hear, yes i would like the plans for your box if you dont mind. and the car its going in is a 2000 Chevy Malibu not a huge trunk but i hope its big enough for 1 15" Thanks alot buddy first thing u should is measure and get the dimensions from your trunk. that way we can see how many cubes your working with. the bl doesn't require that big of a box so if you build the box right its gona fit in your trunk. you can go to re audio and on there they have a box calculator so you can build your own box. just measure first then we can help you with the rest. also tell us what you want your box tuned to.

im needin a 4ohm load to run my ssd12d2 so thats not enough You can wire it to a 1 ohm load. 1ohm aint cracked up to b like everyone thinks sloppy n more likely to blow sumthin not a clean signal im good w 4ohm thanks English man, speak english. For all those amps you mentioned, cut the RMS power in half and that's about what you'll get out of them. If you try to push them to their rated power you'll get 10% THD. So there goes your cleaner signal than 1 ohm theory.

Not to sound retarded on this already horribly derailed topic but is there a real mathematical equation for figuring excursion from watts? Also I thought anything lower than 75w would mess up a sub? like the amplifier would start sending a DC signal because the lack of power draw and you guys know better than I do that DC messes up subs faster than AC.. But yea equation? There is. But it doesn't only have to do with power. Box size, tuning frequency, frequency of the note played, etc., all come into play when figuring out excursion with a given power input. Download a frequency response program that has an excursion plot and you'll get it. winISD is the one I'm familiar with. But I don't know the formula. As for less than 75 watts, that's just, well, absurd. What about subs that are only rated for 50 watts RMS? But I'll answer your question with a question- How many watts do you think your amplifier is putting out when your head unit is on volume 1 and you can barely hear the sub if at all? Is the sub getting messed up then? As for thread jacking, I'm not sorry. This was ridiculous in the first place.

like you said if someone is being annoying with the trunk that sounds like a bunch of dwarfs tap dancing on it the top. Of course i can appreciate good clean bass when i hear it and i will give them their props when prompted.

D2 to 1ohm D1 to 2ohm

I need a box for two Fi Q 12" ported in the trunk of a 2007 Mazda 6. I went out and took some immediate measurements of the cargo space in the trunk. Roughly 28" D x 18" H x 45" W. Looking at roughly 2.0-2.5ft^3 per subwoofer, with the box's ports tuned to 30hz.

what was the video suppose to add to this thread? making a selection on what equipment to buy based a youtube video is ridiculous...

hey guys, this is probably a noob question, but i have an 18" fi q in my car with the bp option. i have it hooked up to a hifonics 1610 1600watts rms, i am running about 1200 (i set it with a dmm). its in a 6.3 cubic foot box after displacement, and its tuned to 31 hz. my question is, why is it that when my doors are open it sounds alot louder than with the door shut. opening the windows helps when im driving, but its getting cold and i wasnt sure if there was anything i could do to make it loud with the doors and windows shut. any help would b great. thanx.