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Glad you decided to join, there's A LOT of great information available and plenty of knowledgable people around to help with the questions you'll have. Don't be affraid to ask either, just follow the forum rules and have a good time!

Keep in mind that you have to quadruple displacement to maintain the same SPL for every octave decrease in frequency. So that means, for example, that if your mids are moving 3mm at 50hz to produce a given SPL level, they must excurt 12mm at 25hz to output the same SPL. Given the generally limited excursion of the majority of mids...this isn't really a good situation to put your speakers in. It's certainly possible to listen to the stereo with no HPF, but you're mainly gambling that you have the self control to always keep the volume at a level where this doesn't become dangerous.

This may sound stupid at first, but they're safe up until they fail. Like any speaker, you can play any frequency on them. It's just a matter of how much power they can handle at that frequency. I've never seen a passive crossover that comes with a HPF for the mids. You're probably better off just using the head unit HPF instead of stacking the HU and amp's filters when you have them both on. Your mids will be fine with the bass with no crossover until you hear them bottoming out or breaking up, which is normally pretty obvious in mids. You probably won't be able to play as loud as with them on, though. But if you want to play them loud, I imagine you'll want at least a 50 hz HPF on them, if not the 63. I would just stick with the system for filters you have in place now.

How old are the subs? IIRC, the older W0s liked a bit larger boxes. Maybe try about 2 cubes net tuned to 25 hz for the pair. But I wouldn't expect too much, W0s arent' known for their low end authority. At least the setup I had and the other I heard back in the day. But good luck though.

Yuck... if you'd prefer a more mature crowd I would stick around these parts... I was once a frequenter of CA.com but I felt my IQ starting to slip with each log-on so I came over here

The bridge you are referring to (as pointed out by M5) failed not necessarily because it was excited at resonance, but because it was excited at resonance and driven beyond it's mechanical limitations. Just the same a subwoofer would be damaged if you drove it past it's mechanical limits. But going back to our weight on a spring...what happens when the weight is pulled downward and released? Does the spring oscillate until it self destructs, or does it oscillate until it's energy is expended? So, how do we determine the time it takes a subwoofer excited at resonance to dissipate it's energy and cease oscillation? By the Q factor. The Q of the driver describes the amount of damping provided at resonance, or for how long after the signal is removed the driver will continue to "ring". (The terms "overshoot" and "ringing" are commonly used to express the amount of damping a driver has.) Qms is mechanical damping (i.e. the suspension). Qes is the electrical damping (i.e. the motor). And Qts is the total Q of the driver (Qts = Qms * Qes/Qms + Qes). A high Q indicates a driver that is underdamped, meaning it will "ring" for a longer period of time or that it has more "overshoot". A low Q indicates a driver is more overdamped, meaning it will have less "ringing" or less "overshoot". So the Qts tells us how a driver will behave at Fs based on the damping provided by the motor and the suspension. And, in case you've never noticed...in the vast majority of drivers on the market, the Qms is much higher than the Qes. Likewise, the total Q of the driver (Qts) is typically just slightly lower than the Qes and significantly lower than Qms. So what does this mean? It tells us that the motor provides much more damping and control over the motion of the cone than the suspension. Well, the impedance does increase but I don't believe "rise" is typically the word used to express that idea as that's most associated with enclosure and heat effects, again as M5 pointed out.