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Guess what I got yesterday!!!!!!!!!! Should be going in a 1997 Cadillac Seville These seem to be great and heavy subs, The smaller sub is my old pioneer that is also "1000 watts RMS" .I used it to show how big the Z15 is. Can't wait till my 2200.1 comes in!!!! Also, how does 6 cubes @ 32 hz sound? Anyone know how much port area I need for this?

Winnar for the new Avatar!!!!!!!!!! :) :) Figured it would be pretty cool. Thanks Also put the sticker on the wife's 4runner, she is still unaware

Because you listen to a mix of music like big rank said the Qs would be more suited for you. the BL will get louder but, the quality with some types of music will not be present vs the Qs.

it's up to you but you got a design flaw since u not breakin a 150 yet with that much power. One main thing i see immediately is your port area. You would benefit GREATLY if u rebuilt a new ported box, stay with 12cubes NET and build a massive port using roughly 300sqin minimum, 500sqin recommended but may not have the room. Make sure you built it as long as possible and test it. Take the port out, cut an inch off and test again and keep doin it til u get your highest score with this monsterous port then rebuild it permanently.

Considering there is no standard for testing which then opens the door for biased testing practices I am personally not a fan of this as a gimic. I am not at all implying that Jacob would walk a funny line, but what he competes against surely would and having people buy something else based on a bullshit test sucks. I'd much rather see the money go into product development.

ok my amplifier has no internal fusing and is around 2000 watts (i dont know how accurate hifonics amp ratings are) so do i need an 2nd fuse near the amp?? I see in your sig that you only have one amp. If that is true you'll will only need 1 fuse and that would be placed near the battery. Now the fuse you put in the holder would be rated for what the amp needs to be protected, and not the wire. But if you have two amps this is a different story. Wrong. The fuse right next to the battery protects the wire, not the amp. Thats why it is right after the battery and not right before the amp. The fuse before the amp, protects the amp. KU40 just explained this.

The Icon has a strong bottm end, yes for sure. It plays quite flat on all its frequencies. It plays so low, when you compare it to some other woofers. I mean it plays low, but always with accuracy. It is music, not !!! The Xcon is really more powerful, and is strong on the bottom too. It's called a sq woofer, but it has strong spl capacity (not for competition, but for listening). The main difference is in the output for these 2 subs. The xcon has so much output, with 1200 to 1800watts, that you can't focus on the low notes only. Everything comes in your face !!! The Icon seems to be usable for all kind of music lovers. It is very loud, don't believe it's not, at all!!! If you're not a basshead you don't really need an xcon. Maybe others will disagree!!! In my town, caraudio fanatics use to play or demo their system on a parking lot every friday night. They have loud system. But when I play, they're all amazed with the way the Icon goes low and still very clean!!! When my friend plays with his xcon, they all ask him to get out of the car, to turn it down!!!That it's not suitable for human being!!! They have never said that for all their "spl" install with "3000" watts rms. It's just my opinion. Maybe I am wrong, but I hope you can understand my words 1sashanka, as it not very easy to explain in my "English as foreign language" !!!!!!!!!!!

You're teaming up with SSA and Ford for the remake of the Taurus at the Detroit Auto Show?!

A well treated door will be better than a Q logic. Hard to give advice currently not understanding what you are willing to go through for the install.

In my 18 years of doing custom car audio i have meet a lot of installers that aren't very good at installing because they are just like you . Everyone has to learn this stuff at your own speed and it take years to get good at it .

I've got a few I'll post up in a bit. I've bought amps from cutra before...nice guy!

i would try building another box in the hatch area, before u go buying more subs..but it really depends on how much output ur looking for...if u looking for mid 140's im guessing the 12 isnt gonna do it. but if ur just looking for something that sounds good and still has a good deal of thump, then stick with the 12 and build another box.

While I don't know the quality of your "ear" so to speak...i.e. I have no idea what you will and will not like...you can get some damn fine performing drivers for much less than either Hybrid or Scanspeak. You could complete your entire 3-way front stage for probably not a lot more than a single pair of L4's and much less than a pair of 12m's, and quite possibly would end up just as happy. I would especially suggest this route if this is your first foray into either an active setup or into the finer side of sound quality. No need to break the bank on a "first" setup that's going to take a lot of learning to get right anyways. Once you get more skilled in the art you could decide if stepping up into more expensive drivers is worth the plunge (which it may not be....as I said, a lot of reasonably priced drivers really do perform quite well). If you want to look for some sites that list driver results, you can start here; http://www.zaphaudio.com http://www.audioheuristics.org/ http://www.diymobile...s-driver-specs/ All of them provide measurements on tested drivers along with some commentary to help you figure out what you're looking at. Should help point you in the direction of which affordable drivers also perform well. EDIT: Forgot to mention, you could use some of that saved speaker money on a different processor. The W505 will control the H701, and depending on install locations you would likely benefit from the H701's time alignment and adjustable slopes (neither of which I believe the Audiocontrol offers). Used H701's can be had for a decent price.

Why wouldn't I? The comments I made, and claims you've made, have nothing to do with whether or not I have heard them. BL independently is a pretty worthless spec.....You brought it into the conversation, and actually ended up being wrong on the basis of the L4's motor strength compared to the 12m. And as I mentioned above, the "reason" you brought it into the conversation wasn't accurate either. So I guess the question is.....if we both agree it's not an important number, why did you bring it up as a supposed strong point in favor of the L4? They are useful when used as intended, but only if you understand what they are telling you and the intention of their use. Which I again question on your end. Go back through my posts, and count the number of negative comments I made against Hybrid. The sole negative comment you can find was based directly on the mediocre objective results of the L3 as I indicated above. You can keep claiming I have some bias against the company if you wish, but it doesn't really make any sense if you actually read my posts. My posts have been directly questioning your comments and requested verification of your comments.....neither of which I received. You apparently aren't very familiar with Zaph Nor of the validity and usefulness of qualified third party independent measurements.

Im in shock that someone talking about buying aan udison vrx amp is using a COMPRESSED MP3 MUSIC SOURCE! Thats like wiping your behind with 100 dollar bills. Spend your money on a good head unit, twith a 24 bit D/A converter, and throw out the MP3's first. After you are done with that, save up for the Audison VRX, as it is the perfecrt match for Foacl linesou