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If you get a voltage meter, I think it would be pretty helpful. Defiantly not useless. If you plug a dmm into an amp and play music on it, you can see the numbers jumping, and it gives you an idea of how much power the subs getting. If you know that your 1000 watt amp pushes its max 1000 watts at 32v, and your music is jumping between 10 and 20 volts, then your ok. If its jumping from 30-40 volts, then the song is probably recorded at +3 db, and you should turn the volume down. I think this would be very useful because, personally I have over 10,000 songs, most of which were illegally downloaded from torrents. So sometimes I do come across songs recorded at higher DB's.

It would do nothing useful for you. As said, it wouldn't tell you if you were clipping. With music it would be jumping numbers so quickly you probably wouldn't even be able to read it anyways. And even if you did know how much power were going to your subs at any given moment (you wouldn't, but hypothetically speaking), how actually useful is this information? Not very.

1. This won't mean jack shiz on music. This won't help you determine rms. Knowing the actual power going to the subwoofers doesn't tell you anything. On music no meter will be useful. You won't know if you are clipping. It measures amperage and only that. 2. NO. It more than likely measures the voltage drop on a shunt, and the voltage drop on that is A LOT, redering the circuit pretty much useless. 3. It's useless.

You would probably be able to hear a little difference. However, if you don't fix your power problem getting a larger amp won't do anything because it won't be able to suck enough juice from your electrical system to even put out any more power.

The big 3 will help out but it sounds like your alternator has gone to crap. Dimmage means voltage drop and if your lights are dimming just from your brake you might have a problem. Take a multimeter and measure the output voltage at idle and revved to around 2200 rpm without any accessories on (positive to alternator positive terminal and neg to ground). Now do the same with the windows and or brake and see where your voltage is at. Do the same test at the battery now. Come back with some info and we will be able to see what is going on with your setup. If your electrical is healthy the big 3 will be enough.

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No it is not common at all but I was told it gives you better voltage and less voltage drops at idle so I went for it and havent looked back at all. I get a starting voltage of 14.8-15.2volts when car is cranked on and no accessories with stock battery and alternator.

Just Because It Reccommends That Amount Of Space Doesn't Mean You Need To Run It At That, Especially With A Crapfonics Bootus. Like I Was Saying, A Box That Small Is For Something That Is Used Mostly Or Only For SPL Applications. (Competition Only.) I Run Mine In 7.2 Cubic Feet After All Displacements, Because I'm Running 4kw To It, If I Was Running Less Power I Would Have Made The Box Bigger, More Power, Smaller. I Say Go With Performance Over Looks, But It's Up To You. A 15" In An Optimal Box Will Always Outdo An 18" In A Constrained One. Bigger Is Only Better When You Have The Electrical And Space To Back It Up, Bar None. I Actually Think You'd Do Better With Something Like BL's, Again, It's All Your Decision. I'd Do The Electrical Beef-up Way Before You Even Think Of Installing Anything Else. The Subwoofer And Everything That Goes Alog With It At This Point Should Be The Last Thing You're Thinking About. jay-cee, You Da Man, Wish We Had More Helpful Folks Around Here Like You. Bring Your Ass To Turkey Drag Tomorrow.

are there any subs that would work in the said 1.5 ft ported per chamber(tuned to 32hz) that would sound good but have more output than the 12w6's? If I have to rebuild the box to get more output i will, but I would like to make sure before I go to that trouble. I would love to stick with a 12 driver but I know that airspace is a little small. If it matters I listen to rock / metal, so I don't care too much about extreme lows. Ads I stated in my original post, my amp is a sundown 2000d. I want to feel that kick drum in my chest. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I would love to use something like a 12 icon but i know that my box is not enough as it is right now.

I am sure the RD is a piece of shit. I don't think your goals are in line with reality though and you could get by with a much louder "less sq" oriented sub. SQ isn't important to you at all, you just don't want a fart box. That is easy to achieve.

I would say just do the big 3 and that should fix the dimming lights

What kind of car do you have? The big 3 will definately help out

Hello. I know this probably an annoying question, but if some one could give me an honest opinion I would really appreciate it. I have a 2007 Tahoe with 2 12w6v2's. They are in a ported box at the manufactures specs of 1.5 cubic ft per driver. It definitely sounds good. I am real happy with the box design and how the whole system intergrates into my vehicle. I have a Sundown 2000d on the way. I realize this is too much power but I wanted to have room for upgrades. I was looking at the specs on the 10 Icon and it looks like it would be a good match for this setup. I believe I could modify my box to hold the tens without too much trouble and at the same time keep my design in tact. I was wondering if 1, these drivers would work in 1.5 ported chamber each tuned to about 32 hz, and 2, would I be able to achieve the same amount of output as the 12w6's even though I will be losing cone area? Honestly I wouldn't mind having a little more output than what I have now. Sorry for being long winded.