Leaderboard

It has something to do with power, but that is not the primary purpose. Think of it this way. A passive crossover is someones compromise to make a set of components cheap enough for you to buy it. Nowhere near optimized for your install. Considering install is WAY, WAY, WAY more important than drivers just using the off the shelf crossover has already seriously compromised your install. That being said, most first time active installs are failures anyways. It does take time and patience and the ability to hear and want to hear the subtleties in music. I personally have Zero interest in the 360.2, they are known to be noisy and definitely limited in processing. Considering you are contemplating horns you are going to need flexibility which to me leaves you with either a couple different headunits or an Alpine H701, Pioneer P9, Audison BitOne, 12v modded Behringer 2496 or some other used units from the past.

Maybe you shouldn't think and type. The RL-p is a great woofer and will work in many different applications. It really depends on your goals. Burping one is possible, but that will require a serious understanding of the box and frequency to really determine the power handling in that scenario. which box and which frequency tuning do you recommend to increase tolarance of box in higher power? Spend a few minutes in a real modeling program and your question will be easily answered. IMO anyone doing any sort of SPL should first really figure out how a program like WinISD works. Not that it is the gospel, but it will sure help you understand output versus tuning versus excursion which is a pre-requisite for building any burp box.

Congrats!!! Now it's easier to spread the word about you guys! Many times friends, buddies, friends of friends would ask what I have for sub drivers. When I show them what I have (1 12" Icon), their jaws just drop and pants are pooped into. The first words are always, "wtf!". And this is coming from guys with sub stages costing more than 2-3 times than mine. Congrats on the fine products you guys put out and congrats on getting back what was always been yours.

:wackit: Those are the XES amps. They were the pre-mobile ES amps.

It's not a comp sub by any means, but it can get very loud. I've put up some big numbers with mikes subs.

disagree with the 3 out of 5 for the online support. i think there is great support on ssa whcan help alot. other than that great review.

1) You should set the subsonic such that your excursion is realistic for your sub. Rule of thumb's IMO are not the way to do it. A quick model in Win ISD will show you the excursion for your power and box size. 2) You can measure. Filter frequencies are -3dB points so you could play a 10v sine wave and measure on a voltmeter, keep reducing the frequency until you hit 7.07V and that will be your crossover frequency or 3dB down point. I'd recommend burning a CD with a whole range of sine tones around your frequency of interest and use them. Of course you could use a single one if you know specifically what frequency you want it to be at. For instance, if that were 30Hz burn a 30Hz sine tone on a CD. Play the CD through your system with the filters off and measure the voltage. Now multiply that voltage by .7079. Now turn on your filter and turn the knobs until your DMM reads whatever voltage you just calculated.

If Im reading this right then it makes no sense at all to me. Do you mean 4 gauge or 4/0awg big difference? Your amps terminals have nothing to do with the Big Three wiring. You dont need 1/0awg on that amp, 4 gauge will do fine. I would suggest you get 1 reducer and run 1/0 awg from battery to distrribution block then 4 gauge from the d. block to amps terminals if you insist on using 1/0 awg. There wont be that big of a difference though, if you plan on upgrading your system in the future then I can see the point upgrading your amp's wires.

Hey dumb ass go here www.dcsoundlab.com, just contact rusty @ [email protected] or call him, 1-775-425-5700.

Unrelated still. Every brand could be different. Comparing two specific subs like above is possible, but again not for BETTER. The question is NOT answerable and rather stupid in general. Amusingly it sounds like the OP is having an argument with someone and wants backup. They are both wrong, lol. i just love these people who think they know sooooooo much and are so above they average guy that they cant answer a simple question and even go as far as to call the question stupid. thanks alot idiot!!!