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187 Series 10 Sealed .5 cubes - 1.0 cubes Ported 1.4 cubes - 2 cubes, 15 - 20 Inches of Port, 28-35 Hz 187 Series 12 Sealed 1.0 cubes - 1.4 cubes Ported 2 cubes - 2.5 cubes, 20 - 30 Inches of Port, 28-35 Hz 187 Series 15 Sealed 1.4 cubes - 2.0 cubes Ported 2.5 cubes - 3.5 cubes, 30 - 45 Inches of Port, 28-35 Hz Lethal Injection Series 10 Sealed .6 cubes - 1.0 cubes Ported .9 cubes - 1.5 cubes, 12 - 25 Inches of Port, 28-35 Hz Average: 1.25 cubes, 18 inches, 28-35 Hz Lethal Injection Series 12 Sealed .8 cubes - 1.4 cubes Ported 1.75 cubes - 2.5 cubes, 25 - 40 Inches of Port, 28-35 Hz Average: 2.00 cubes, 30 inches, 28-35 Hz Lethal Injection Series 15 Sealed 1.5 cubes - 2.0 cubes Ported 3.0 cubes - 4 cubes, 40 - 60 Inches of Port, 28-35 Hz Average: 3.5 cubes, 50 inches, 28-35 Hz Death Row Series 12 Sealed Not Recommended Ported 1.8 cubes - 2.5 cubes, 20 - 48 Inches of Port, 32-37 Hz Average: 2.20 cubes, 32 inches, 32-37 Hz Death Row Series 15 Sealed Not Recommended Ported 2.75 cubes - 4.0 cubes, 36 - 64 Inches of Port, 32-37 Hz Average: 3.25 cubes, 50 inches, 32-37 Hz Death Row Series 18 Sealed Not Recommended Ported 5.0 cubes - 8.0 cubes, 60 - 120 Inches of Port, 32-37 Hz Average: 6.5 cubes, 90 inches, 32-37 Hz Death Penalty Series 12 Sealed Not Recommended Ported 1.8 cubes - 3.0 cubes, 20 - 48 Inches of Port, 32-37 Hz Average: 2.5 cubes, 35 inches, 32-37 Hz Death Penalty Series 15 Sealed Not Recommended Ported 3.0 cubes - 5.0 cubes, 36 - 80 Inches of Port, 32-37 Hz Average: 4.0 cubes, 55 inches, 32-37 Hz Death Penalty Series 18 Sealed Not Recommended Ported 5.0 cubes - 7.5 cubes, 60 - 120 Inches of Port, 32-37 Hz Average: 6.5 cubes, 90 inches, 32-37 Hz Death Penalty Series 21 Sealed Not Recommended Ported 7.5 cubes - 10.0 cubes, 90 - 160 Inches of Port, 32-37 Hz Average: 8.5 cubes, 120 inches, 32-37 Hz Warden Series 12 Sealed Not Recommended Ported 1.8 cubes - 3.0 cubes, 20 - 48 Inches of Port, 32-37 Hz Average: 2.5 cubes, 35 inches, 32-37 Hz Warden Series 15 Sealed Not Recommended Ported 3.0 cubes - 5.0 cubes, 36 - 80 Inches of Port, 32-37 Hz Average: 4.0 cubes, 55 inches, 32-37 Hz Warden Series 18 Sealed Not Recommended Ported 5.0 cubes - 7.5 cubes, 60 - 120 Inches of Port, 32-37 Hz Average: 6.5 cubes, 90 inches, 32-37 Hz Warden Series 21 Sealed Not Recommended Ported 7.5 cubes - 10.0 cubes, 90 - 160 Inches of Port, 32-37 Hz Average: 8.5 cubes, 120 inches, 32-37 Hz

SUBS: 2 12 inch dc audio lvl 4s with lvl 5 coils D1s Aplifier: sundown 3000 Head unit: alpine Batterries: red top and a gnb Alt: who knows but need one soon Door speakers: stock for now wire: schoshe and install bay 0 gage build location: humble, tx at sound fx's house thank you darryl for all the help

Either way you are going to love the XCON. I liked them ported, the only reason I sealed them up was because I had to do something since my box was coming apart. I am more pleased with them sealed up every day and I am glad I did it. They are amazing subwoofers, NO DOUBT! Merry Christmas to you too!

nina2012 just got the perma-disabled posting capabilities...or lack there of. You can't sell Ugg's here bitch.

Aahah is that the one with the wireless sub? My dad brought that home and I just laughed. He proceeded to bring it back. Yah, that's the one. Its ok for what it is if you don't want anything more than just better sound from your TV. I mean, we're not expecting great results from an item that has no controls are we

I would email nick with pictures of the problem, along with when you bought the sub and info on your setup. You may be able to mail it in and get it repaired under warranty, but chances are since you say a coil went bad there was some user error that caused the problems. If the magnet cracked and shifted it may have rubbed the coil to death.

Since you have an American car the choices are pretty limitless. Ohio Gen makes great alts as does Mean Green and Power master.

http://www.caraudioclassifieds.org/forum/showthread.php?t=23338 Looks like they're up to 22 batteries. Here's the discount break down 15 batteries sold= 5% off internet pricing plus free shipping/handling (D3100’s = $331.55 shipped) 30 batteries sold=10% off internet pricing with a $10 flat charge for shipping/handling except on single battery purchases. Single battery purchases will receive free shipping. (D3100’s = $314.10+$10 S&H) 45+ batteries sold=15% off internet pricing with a $10 flat charge for the shipping/handling except on single battery purchases. Single battery purchases will receive free shipping. (D3100’s = $296.65+$10 S&H)

i think it's in all the post 's and should be said like this you should not need it if you got the correct amount or put it this way more then the correct amount of power . if you feel you need it your running to little power and tuning up the bass boost this sends it in to cliping. wich if it';s cliping you need a bigger amp at that point most of all if it sounds like the subs are barely moving you need a bigger amp.

The only way to ever truly tell is to buy them both, put them in the same box, same car, and run them off that same amp. Then decide for yourself and sell the ones you don't like. Sad, but true.

Budget? Goals? Amps? We need more info to help you out! Why not spend some time and audition as many differen't speakers as you can? Only your ears will be able to tell you what sounds good to you!

Keywords being for an ssd there's nothing wrong with to much power, he just has to use the thing between his ears, when his playing music

its really install dependant, jacob just did a 150.7 on his single sa-8.

I wouldn't recommend doing this based upon variables of how each amp is built. Each is going to produce a different output voltage at the same frequency and ohm load amp to amp. Just the way they're built. There's no way to compensate that as it'll change at the next frequency, and the next and the next and the next.

There's a Samsung unit that isn't horrible. Although there's not much in the way of tweaking controls. Actually, there aren't any controls. You just plug it into your tv and hope you have a decent sounding output there. HT-WS1

Depending on the vehicle, you may not even be able to build a proper box for 8 15" woofers. I say go with 4 18's.

This is a horrible idea. There's a reason there are home audio amplifiers. There's also a reason people make 12v power supplies ment to take the type of abuse we're talking about here.

That black blurb you see isn't an amp. The red thing is a display. Those things you see in the background are the Zapco C2k Series of amplifiers. And your signature is too large, I'm resizing that mess.

USA vs Chinese Sure there are more of them, but they all smell like rice.

If you're buying a Warden, chances are... you don't need help on the enclosure.

For a turn on? No. lol.. No. Just splice a bit from your power wire to your remote. That'll tell you whether the turn on is damaged.

They can process it as long as the ship to address is the same as the one on the card.

Did you call them and ask for an update? You can also purchase Selenium at Parts Express.

If you're set on the Q, get the DVC 1 ohm model and wire it down to 2 ohms. Generally there is less distortion at higher impedance's.

Unless your vehicle came with a 200A+ alternator.. its time to upgrade. 6000w with only two 2400's is never a good idea. I'd bet your voltage is dropping into the mid 10's isn't it? You'll want to either look into a dual 200a alt option or a single 300-350a.

Thanks for that info, I've been looking for the article I originally saw him in for awhile now and could scarcely remember any of the details. Off to Google I go.

I'm just going to interject for a quick moment to mention that all good sound comes down to source. I'll bring up yet again, the man that WON the SQ world championships (2001-2002ish?) in a Volkswagen GTI with the stock 3-way paper cone components. The only things he added was the Pioneer P9 combo and a set of older Boston Acoustics amplifiers. Let me reiterate the stock speakers part. Processing people. That what it's all about. That is the first step to SQ. It contains your equalizer, your time alignment and your crossovers.

Depends on your vehicle, current electrical system and what amplifier you go with. But knowing that you want the BTL, plan on spending a good amount of money on your electrical.

Maybe you should just email them. If they want you to have their numbers, they should be the ones to give it to you. Not some random person on the internet.

All users with below 25 posts who entered (a lot of you had 1 post.. ) have been removed.

Stick with the 720PRS's. Those speakers are amazing. One of the best sets Pioneer has ever sold.

That's right on the edge, but you should be fine. Add a little polyfill to help the response out.

If you don't plan on using the advanced active features of the 9887, just get the Pioneer.

-1 rep for you, lets try some civility next time eh?

If you want to run 1000w and are stuck between the SSD and the Q... just get the Q.

The only recent motor changes have been to the BL and the BTL.

I bet your front wheels rub the body quite a bit.

You should hear me pee. And when I run, my balls slap my legs... o jeezus look out.

Before you even start to discuss passive radiators, you should know the rule of thumb when using them is to double the cone area of the powered woofer. In this case, dual 15" PR's.

You won't be able to see any of that.

SAZ-1500D would be plenty for 2 W7's.

That's pretty Ghetto ^ Unless you soldered the wire into that copper, your chances of it slipping out of that are pretty high.

Electrical upgrades are never a bad idea.

Also a budget and what type of box it's in would be helpful.

The strapping, the 3 ohms, even the amps them selves have nothing to do with your engine noise. Try removing the RCA's from the amp, is the noise still there? If it is, the problem lies with your amplifier ground. If its gone, the problem lies with the head unit.

Is your main run 4awg to a distro? If so, it really should be 1/0awg.

zomg rep works again, yay!

You don't think Jacob or DJ know how to gain match their amplifiers? Its a bit more complicated than just a line driver or just a splitter.

Lots of people use the MaxxLink. A lot of people gain several tenths of a Db just by swapping it in.

My opinion is that it is in fact a subwoofer that reproduces sound.