Jump to content
View in the app

A better way to browse. Learn more.

SSA® Car Audio Forum

A full-screen app on your home screen with push notifications, badges and more.

To install this app on iOS and iPadOS
  1. Tap the Share icon in Safari
  2. Scroll the menu and tap Add to Home Screen.
  3. Tap Add in the top-right corner.
To install this app on Android
  1. Tap the 3-dot menu (⋮) in the top-right corner of the browser.
  2. Tap Add to Home screen or Install app.
  3. Confirm by tapping Install.

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/09/2010 in all areas

  1. How can you say if someone would be happier with something over another if you've no experience with the other product?
  2. I luv your avatar, kinda hard not to do the same thing seeing all that junk in the trunk
  3. In regards to breaking in subs, is there any advantage to be had by running the sub on a bench playing a 20Hz tone free air before installing it?
  4. I can't believe this thread is almost 17k pages long
  5. I think it's time to go get some coffee.....it's been kind of cold out here lately
  6. 1 point
    I would take the 12's. I'd only do 10's if that was my only option
  7. That's why I'm interested to see why in the hell he would want 4300 watts at less than 70% efficiency. That's fucktarded. You do realize that most modern Class-D amplifiers are 85-90% efficient right? Please don't tell me they have too much THD, that's a worthless measurement. Nope just Don't like the way they sound. As Steve will tell you it took him Many years to figure out how to make them not sound "flat". There is a World of difference. I can take a new Class D that is 1200-1500 watts replace it with a Series VIII Zues ot a Autotek 7600 and it will sound better and hit harder. I can deal with the power consumption. I don't need to anything near 4300 so it wouldn't ever get run that low. Shit the heat that Class D put's out at 1 or 1/2 ohm is more than the Zues at 4ohm's. My 2 cents I have tried everything over the years I have been doing this since 91-92 and haven't stopped once so believe me I have heard and tried alot of stuff over the years. If there wasn't that much difference the demand wouldn't be so high for Old School Quality Class A/B amps. Most people can't hear the difference between 1% THD and 2% THD.... So everything below 0.5% THD is good enough, and if you set the gain low enough you get less power and less THD. Test a class D amp at 4 ohms or test a A or B class amp at 1 ohm, let's see which one will get hotter. It's normal if you lower the impedance, the efficiency drops= more heat. Don't think you could hear a difference between different sub amps, i know that (good) highs souns different with different brands of amps. But it's a really nice amp really powerfull amp certain at the time it was made.
  8. Wow! That thing is gettin' busy! There's a guy selling two of these on **** for $300! Brand new!! 15's!!! Seeing this video makes me want them even more but he doesn't want to ship, wants to unload them locally I could have two of those bad boys, 15's, for not much more than i'm about about pay for a DD 2512
  9. So whats amazing about it? 4300watts RMS @ 1 ohm?
  10. You dont need top of the line electrical system for 1 btl, u might need a strong capacitor possibly an extra battery but u dont need to get all that stuff for it, i have a 15" btl fully loaded on a hifonics brutus 20100, 2000rms, and no extras and my battery gage is fine, i am getting an extra battery just so it takes strain off the alternator but u dont NEED it.

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.