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I have done things with the Icon 10" that just isn't right....for example 143.6db @ 10hz with four 10" by far one of the best sounding woofers on the market...you would only be impressed

going big in size. going home in performance. FTL

From what I see, going with a single 12" would be your best bet. If you're looking for quality and boom, a single 12" will do you best in a 2c^3 enclosure. With that bit of extra airspace, 1 12" will out-perform 2 12's choked up in that small of an eclosure, as well as a single 15" in that small of an eclosure. Quality over quantity. If you're going more for looks than performance, then by all means go for the 2 12's or a 15. It's all personal preference. Look at it like this: You have 20 people standing in a small sealed off room, as opposed to 5 people standing inside the same sized room..which one will it be easier for the people to breathe? Same way when it comes to subs.. they need to breathe. Putting too many in too small of an enclosure is taking that breathing room away, thus lowering the performace and quality of the subs. My .2: Go with the 1 12" and call it a day. But like I said. It's all personal preference. P.S. Port the box. A single 12 in a 2^3 ported box would sound nice for the type of music being played. Port tuned to 30-35hz

That thread seemed to go misguided and went more towards suggestions.... this thread is geared more towards numbers...this thread isn't hurting anyone. No.. That thread is also geared towards numbers. This thread is deemed a duplicate.

first, the subwoofer size does not dictate how low it will play. If you are going for the best sound quality, i would suggest going with a single sub of the highest quality you can afford and choosing the size that works best with 2 cubes of space. It would be better to use a single 12 that requires 1 cube and have extra space than a 15 that requires 3 cubes choked in a 2 cube box. Also you may want to look at getting a single 12 and porting it, it will give you a large boost in output in the lower octaves (the Sundown SA-12 works great in 1.75 cubes, which with port volume would be perfect in 2 cubes)

correct, with that amp, the only way you could run active is if you had a fullrange speaker for the mids/highs that could play down to 500 Hz. Getting a setup like that to work at high volumes might be difficult, however it would be really cool to try if you are open to doing a little fabrication. Something like: Fostex FE126E 4.5" Full Range from Madisound for mids and highs could work crossed over to something like MLI-65 [MLI-65] - $39.60 : Mach 5 Audio might actually work well, and would be pretty unique. but, while it would be fun to experiment with a setup like that, it will be much much easier if you stay passive

Fatmat is asphalt if I recall correctly, which makes it an automatic no. If you're interested in sound deadening products, the first place you need to visit is www.sounddeadenershowdown.com Don @ SDS is a great guy and offers great products. Second, it would be helpful if you could inform us on what exactly it is you are trying to accomplish. Different deadening objectives requires different methods and, ultimately, a different product mix to achieve those goals. Just saying "I want to buy sound deadening, what's good?" isn't a very good question.

I don't know your level of car audio knowledge so i'm just gonna throw this out.. Are you certain you wired the sub up to a final load of 1ohm ? Do you have a DMM ?? If so i'd meter the speaker wires disconnected from the amp to assure you have a final load of 1ohm... Also take a phone pic of the amps settings... last time a customer said these exact words and wanted to warranty the amp thinking it was broken i asked to take a look at it first. the SSF and the LP filter was off by a shit ton.. after i tweaked the filters dramatic improvement on sound...

Here's some good reading links posted that don't sound like guesses. Keep in mind the current draw for the ohm load. It out lines every thing clearly. One note is the testing was for burps not daily music. I'm not sure if any of the posters prior to me even have the amp in question. With that said, I haven't finished my installation so I can't even give my experience yet; however, I have read every thing I could find for my build. Read the saz 1500 post and view all of the videos on the below links. These will give you the basic knowledge to answer your question. Saz 1500 and ohm loads SAZ-1500D POWER TESTING - SSA Car Audio Forum Electrical videos HIFONICS - Video Support Library These will give you a basic grasp to be able to answer your questions.

i would run a small bank if i didnt replace the alt.. perhaps 1 in the front and 2 in the rear... also make sure you get a volt meter. and keep an active eye on it.

100% install dependent

Please just use the SPL show off thread for songs that you like to "bump" to.

Or you could just chain the entire battery bank together. Use buss bars and then run all the amplifier positives to the buss bars.

Rock maybe... techno/euro-dance.. not really. SQ is the accurate reproduction of all frequencies. Music that doesn't carry a wide spectrum of frequencies is not going to show what your system can do.

That's the wrong stuff lol. That stuff is for wiring a home. Go to a welding supply store.

You're using the wrong wire if you think its not flexible.

Only because you either completely lack reading comprehension or are unable to see just how ignorant you are. You apparently failed to comprehend my first response which demonstrated your idiocy in gauging sound quality based on a competition format. You also apparently missed the following two direct quotes from the above post; "There are a fairly wide array of measurements which can indicate how "true to the source" a system will be. The further these measurements stray from ideal, the further from accuracy the system will fall. I even gave a specific example in my previous post of a situation that might sound "pleasing" on a preference level but would lack accuracy. Perhaps you should brush up on reading comprehension?" "The standard suite of properly conducted audio measurements is a good place to start. Anomalies being indicative of inaccuracies, the larger the anomaly and/or greater quantity of anomalies the further from accurate the system is. It's not perfect, but it's far better than calling everything subjective and allowing anyone's own personal preference to suffice as a definition of "sound quality"." I'm not going to detail every individual measurement available and what they mean as this is research you are fully capable of conducting on your own. The fact that measurements exist is sufficient for the purposes of this thread to establish that it's possible to objectively express accuracy or lack there-of in a system to the extent possible. However, you clearly lack the mental fortitude to see past your own erroneous viewpoint, so I can fully understand why this concept eludes you. YOU ARE STILL COMPLETELY OBLIVIOUS TO THE FACT THAT COMPETITION FORMAT DOES NOT DEFINE SOUND QUALITY. There is nothing else to say. No explanation can apparently convey this to you as I have already covered it. You are an idiot if you can't see past this simple point. Go back and read my very first response. I guess all of these speaker engineers forgo any acoustical measurements and just call in SQ competition judges in order to evaluate their speakers prior to production. Because acoustical measurements don't tell us anything about the performance of a speaker. It's these judges that define sound quality. It's the format of a car audio competition that happens to have the term "sound quality" in their title that provides the definition of sound quality to the rest of the world. And sadly, for whatever reason, this makes sense to you and is what you are arguing in support of. What's pathetic is you have no actual rebuttal to this. All you can do is pretend that nothing important was said when every point you made was shown to be ignorant, and then cling to this moronic idea that sound quality is defined by a car audio competition format. You either haven't read this thread, or haven't understood it. LOL.

I'm well aware SQ competitions include an RTA measurement. But the main portion of their "sound quality" scoring comes from judges listening to the vehicles. SQ competitions also used to (still might, I don't know) measure maximum peak SPL. But we wouldn't call a singular measurement of peak SPL a measure of "SQ" just because it's used in an SQ competition, would we? An RTA isn't a singular measure of sound quality, nor is it a particularly useful measurement. If you don't know much about a particular topic, it's typically best to stay silent.

Sound quality is accurate reproduction of the source. That's not subjective. Your personal preference is subjective. Is it possible to quantify all aspects of a systems sound quality? Well, theoretically it's probably possible however practically it's pretty difficult. But that doesn't mean you can substitute your personal preference of "sounds good" for accuracy to the source and still call it "sound quality", especially if the measurable properties do not coincide with an accurate reproduction of the source.

Getting sort of off topic.....but no, running a 2-way active front stage + subwoofer is a 3-way active system. A 3-way active front stage + subwoofer is a 4-way active system. Majority of people are already running their substage "active" by using the amplifier's or headunit's onboard amplifiers for the crossover. So when I was having this same argument and including the sub in my setup and claiming to have a three-way active system everyone on this forum was like no you dont have one, dont include the sub stage. Why was that? (not arguing just looking for some clarification). **I do understand how people are using there subwoofers with there headunits and amps to make it active and all that stuff. I cant remember when the thread was made but Ill search for it. Because subwoofers are generally a mono source. Your front stage uses a stereo source. 3-way + sub is accurate.

oh lord, not text talk

Well played, Aaron. Well played.

Sundown

Image Dynamics make SQ subs, even just the entry level ID series subs run about $150ea, need I say more? Here are rebadged ID12v3's for $80 shipped. Need I say more? REF-TM12.4 - Image Dynamics 12" Dual 4 Ohm OEM Tidal Audio Subwoofer

Do you need the two different size depths (top, bottom)? What type of music do you listen to mainly? What amp will you be using? I would prefer to keep the height down as much as possible. Drive a tC, and I want to be able to put the rear hatch cover down when necessary so nobody can see what I have back there. I guess I could also make an upward facing box as well so that I have more height to work with as well. I listen to a lot of rock, but I'll be bumping more hip hop when I get this put in. Also, I'm using a Cerwin Vega Stroker 1000.1.

You never answered this question. If you can, then no way would I run the little Seas... As for can you with your headunit and amp. You "can", but you won't have the control to really knock things into place. Conveniently for you though you picked a midrange that is very easy to tame so as long as your install is reasonable it should work out at least as good as a component set and has the potential to be even better.

Umm, who the hell knows. Answer the question and give us some information. Generically speaking you will need a complete custom hinge setup depending on the weight you plan.

Expect the shop to butcher the hell out of your active settings. * I don't see a processor in your list either, you are going to need one.

I'll be having lunch at Tsukiji in less than a month. that place is incredible.

I doubt it. My guess is that his front stage amp is more prone to cutting out due to voltage issues and when the sub is on he has some.

Interesting. My 8455 doesn't have that hiss, neither did my 8053. You seem to want everything and buy nothing., but it isn't like Eclipse built them anyway. More or less they are still available. What's wrong with wanting? I'm not exactly rich, and neither is my family. Dreams are good. I do have a tendency to get carried away though Nothing, but you state it in nearly every thread even somewhat related. No one really wants to read what you want when it is everything.

my front stage lets you hear everything including the space around the recording..... the JBL 660gti's are just amazing..you can even hear the fingerprint rub on the guitar strings You should listen to a Seas Excel once if you think the JBL's are transparent. You'd be floored. And yes, that is what my Eclipse was connected to. No hiss.

Check my sig

Looks like you're off to a nice start!

Hey man, it looks like a deer might have ran into the side of your truck.

44Hz-60Hz

Was that a pun? Maybe we should have used the 25% coverage method ?

Do work son! Get this thing built!!

kind of a vague question....when you ask "would it matter" in what way are you meaning?

I wish I could hear some ICON's too, they were on my list of subs to get but kinda hard to pull the trigger on them without hearing them first to see what they can do.

going big in size. going home in performance. FTL All depends on what your goal is actually

Image Dynamics make SQ subs, even just the entry level ID series subs run about $150ea, need I say more? Here are rebadged ID12v3's for $80 shipped. Need I say more? REF-TM12.4 - Image Dynamics 12" Dual 4 Ohm OEM Tidal Audio Subwoofer Yeah, you forgot to mention that those subs SQ wise sound more like the CTX line than the ID line. Need I say more?

Aren't straight ports better than the L shaped one's?

Go big or go home, 15" FTW!

That thread seemed to go misguided and went more towards suggestions.... this thread is geared more towards numbers...this thread isn't hurting anyone.