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Volt Meter Nice voltage huh? Went ahead and foamed while i had everything apart (btw i know in the pic it says 2008, guess the camera isnt setup with right date)

Only alternator you need is a DC Power alternator... They actually do power at idle where you actually need it...the rest of those simply do not do it. They might do 40 amps at idle and 300 amps at 4000 engine RPM's...which is exactly where you dont need it. 200 amps at idle is much more important.

That is assuming 1500w output and 100% efficiency ?

2 way first time out and EXPECT to change shortly. Spending money on the HAT options isn't worthwhile, in particular since if you are truly gung ho about a 3 way you will be changing things up after you figure it all out (ie 6mo after you do the first install). Spend more time planning your install, focusing on deadening, aiming, and tuning and less time on drivers. In the end you will be rewarded. As for 2 way recommendations, I would still be a proponent of picking "easy" drivers instead of ones with anomalies. ie paper cones and not magnesium or other ones with nasty breakup modes. Get your ears used to what changes with what settings and then decide. I'd also recommend used drivers first and the expectation that you will change them up after listening to them for a while. If not, I guarantee you will toss money away as a change will be in order no matter what. Take your $700 budget and spend $150-200 on used stuff, tell us what you like and don't like about it and THEN go shopping for your $700 (-50 for depreciation) and really get your monies worth. Just my .02

I think you underestimate the difficulty in properly tuning an active setup It's no cake walk to get right. I would rather have a well executed 2-way front stage than a mediocre 3-way. Bridge 4 channels of the Lev down to two for your mids, since they will likely be 8ohm that'll give you 300w to each mid for great headroom and use the last 2 channels for the tweeters. And you'll still have all the pieces in place so that in the future it'd be a fairly simple switch to go 3-way. An RTA while possibly useful won't be extremely helpful. There are a lot of issues an RTA can't help you with. Your budget allows a pretty wide range of driver choice. You could really spend a lot less than your budget on a quality 2-way and if tuned and installed properly have really great results. EDIT: Deja Vu.....haven't we had this conversation before? LOL

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You should have more than that, that's minimum. If you want to play at full volume for more than a few minutes get more power.

Welcome to SSA! We're chalk full of experts here We appreciate you doing research as well

XCON's and Nightshades are designed for different purposes.

Decent amps don't have any headroom. An amplifier with headroom is indicative of an amplifier with a weak and poorly engineered power supply, unless it has a special gimmick in it like the RF T15KW. If the MBQ has the quality and features the owner needs, I'd take the higher power option every day of the week

You really don't want any vibration damper for a pure SPL car. Vibration dampers eat energy. If you only care about numbers on a meter, find a better way to reinforce the panels to prevent energy loss to panel motion and deformation.

Fatmat is asphalt. According to their website, they released a product called Mega Mat in 2009 which they claim is their first butyl product. There is a lot of confusion because FatMat used to claim it was butyl when it wasn't. After a lengthy debate on one of the forums, the owner agreed to remove the word "butyl" from the site. Last time I checked, he was still using it on his eBay auctions. He also stated that asphalt was a superior vibration damper in many ways, but chose not to elaborate further. I've yet to see anyone selling a butyl product say it was asphalt

I think you should get two D2's and wire the VC's in series and the speakers in parallel for a 2 ohm load on the amp, that will yield you approximately 1600 watts from the 3000D. It will help your subwoofers and amplifier last much longer. As far as your gain problem goes: Power = Voltage x Current

Unfortunately "worth" is a matter of perspective. Amplifiers are not really that important in the grand scheme of things, so I personally look for the most affordable amp that has the features, quality and power that I'm looking for. DD normally doesn't fall within that criteria for me personally. Others however may feel they are well worth any premium paid compared to more affordable amplifiers.

The sub is in a 3.0-3.1 cubic foot enclosure tuned to around 32-33 hz. Im running it of a JL 1000/1. I was playing songs like "soul survivor" Akon and Jeezy. If you blew a BL on a 1000 watt amp it's without a doubt the gains, tuning, "SUPER BASS" setting on the head unit and the loose nut behind the knobs Speakers are stupid...they do exactly what you tell them to do

Clipping LED's are worthless. Unloading occurs when you play below the tuning frequency of the port of the enclosure. If you do not have the subsonic filter set 2-3Hz below the tuning frequency of the enclosure the amplifier will play full power to the sub. Once you go below the tuning frequency of the enclosure the port no longer resonates and acts as if it were a big open hole in the box...you do not burn coils from this. You break things mechanically when you unload them, you do not burn coils. Resulting in yanking parts..popping spiders etc. If you burned the coils and/or tinsels up you are clipping them. Regardless what that little LED says. The only way to know that you are not clipping is via an Oscilloscope.

Get a TL and do some testing...... that is the only real way to tell.

fat mat is butyl rubber just like e - dead and all the others they have up dated there stuff since the sound deadener show down was written good bit of info there as for fat mat verse e dead and dynamat fat mat and e dead are basically the same products. but the e dead i had unstuck from my trunk lid it was to heavy and did not want to adhere in the Michigan sun we have here. but ya there was a noticeable in crease in db's when finished witrh the e-dead. if you think don's method will work to do a spl car go ahead and do it that way. this is why i went e dead or fat mat helps so you do not crack the roof of your car with sound pressure when the metal starts to oil can and become annealed before cracking. ya the e dead stuck to the roof of the truck but not the car maybe i should have cleaned it better?

i guess your right but it maybe a butyl asphalt base which boils down to higher butyl content. cause they call it a rubberised compound no telling what it is i got the e dead which they claim is butyl too. i think it butyl, i got ribon sealer from auto zone which is 100% butyl same stuff as the e dead i got so i am guessing it depends on how much butyl is in it.

no, that's overkill. When you have a high output alt, that's overkill. I would recommend a single d3100 just for the 3500d but since the 100.4 is also in play, i'd look at getting about 150aH worth of batt from XS Power. If going with Kinetik, i'd look at gettin around 200aH.

Please use the search function PowerBastards also this is in the completely wrong forum. Mods please move/lock

115.384615 @ 13v watts divided by volts = amps amps times volts = watts

Yeah...I could tell you. So could an Algebra book.

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Civic, I was being sarcastic FYI

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