Leaderboard

for the sake of 'not' assuming, is your wiring all up to the task? asking if the big three has been done, secure grounds, solid connections, large enough gauge wiring? as far as adding a second alt, i would if i just had it, lol. just because if nothing else. and yes the brutus likes the current, no doubt. i am anxious to know about your wiring though, also, you said at idle, you are at 12.4 is your alt rated at 260 at idle, that is a big alt if so, what happens to the voltage at 2000 rpms and higher volume?

I have a problem with going below 13v

To the best of my knowledge, Kinetik has exclusive rights to most if not all of their batteries and does not sell those rights to other companies for use. They may be built at the same buildhouse, but that doesn't make them the same battery.

in my personal opinion, i never like to drop below 12.5v even at idle! If i drop below that, either turn it down or get more battery. However, i would advise to never drop below 12v because it will put a strain on the alternator trying to keep everything charged.

I'd go ahead and install the second alt. You know the saying, "It takes power to make power"? It's very true.

You probably didn't see he already has an alt and he is wondering installing a second one. It's still not difficult.

The problem with low voltage is that it damages your amp. Yes it will still play and amplify a signal, but that one time 1,000 watt amp may only be putting out 750 watts after seeing low voltage situations and it will keep getting worse until one day it gives up. A battery rests at 12.4, it would be advised to keep your voltage above that at all times to be safe.

I see no reason why not to install that second alternator. Plus that I've heard Hifonics like some stable power to them.

I wouldnt go any lower than 11 volts at any dip. Especially not if it stays there for extended periods of time. Amps dont like low voltage.

no, sundown does around 1600w@1ohm and the ap does hair over 2000w @4ohm U can wire to both of those configurations. Do not choose based on power alone because u will not hear the difference.

LOL Signatured Sean deserves the credit Check MY signature.

Jacob was born with MOSFET's and 1/0 gauge in his hands, he just put them together

PM'ing a lot of the company's may not be a good thing since they are barely on here and are busy with other things then responding to pm's. That is why I said your best bet is to email or call these guys if you really want to get in touch with them.

Your best bet is to decide on which company you want to build your box for you and then proceed to email, call or make a topic under there thread on this forum. I doubt they are on here enough to look at every question about boxes, this will get you started on getting your box built faster.

Welcome and glad you could join us

Im curious as to if there is that big of a difference myself, I heard that Shuriken's are rebadged Kinetiks just at a lower cost. A friend of mine who owns a shop in Chicago said he stopped selling Kinetiks to sell the Shuriken's and they perform good. I was thinking about purchasing a Shuriken to test out but would like to know if others have dealt with one yet also.

well yeah thats cool if thats what you have, go ftw with the 16g and be done with it

good start and keep us posted

great products in a wiring kit, i got to get my hands on a multimeter asap. Im mad you beat me to punch, have fun installing

definately definately.. the wire is packed too.. it's not just all insulator.. quality stuff.. but head on down to radio shack.. got mine there only $20.. already tested my voltage and was just about to post results.. and some more pics eventually.. but i need that sub and then i can really have fun do you have a voltmeter by any chance? yeah i have an audiocontrol epic-160 that has a voltmeter on it, right under the radio

I have mines wired into the radio's wires since I customized my dash kit and fit it into the pocket under the radio. I suggest you use your radio's wiring since you will probably have that voltmeter somewher up close to the dash so it can be read easier

i just used the standard blue 18g remote wire but 16g would do the trick if you dont have any 18g laying around just make sure your ground wire is the same as the power wire

haha now that i think of it.. i do.. i just got like 17ft of it in that amp kit that i dont need.. but for the power and ground i'll probably just use 16g rockford speaker wire.. sound good to you? in my opinion i dont think that will be needed but maybe someone else will chime in if im wrong, it is still going to read the voltage of the vehicle the same with either wire.

thats a good car off voltage but that starting voltage should be better. All with stock alt, batter but Big 3 Done: Im 13.1 with car offf Im 14.7 when car first cranked Im14.1-14.3 with lights and ac full blust with two high amps on, 93 degree texas night

good location to mount the meter

good job man, would you like to do my trunk (just playing), enjoying the build so far

or just go to home depot and buy a black shelf board like i did (it will save you the time cutting and painting), works out just the same. I have my board holding my two amps for my mids & tweeters

do you have any other amps in the car, for your interior speakers. if so where are you going to mount them

now thats one fine piece of sound audio equipment right there

whats the name of that mike jones song you were playing, I thought you had the saz-2000d hooked up in the video but I thought wrong

yeah I seen it, looks great for it just to be the jl audio 250/1. I wanna put my 2000D in also but Im a little skeptical on it, even though MemphisMzd said put it in and watch the voltage (maybe in august if batteries still havent been bough then I will just install it and be real cautious with it)

Did you finally wire you sub to a 1 ohm load and if so how is the voltage?

So what about this example, if I set my highpass filter at 300Hz on my midrange and the Sub Sonic Filter at 500Hz will that cancel out the high pass filter or raise the octave slope?

I dont think I will ever understand the background info to this stuff but I do appreciate your help and info you provided.

I guess once I get an understanding of the technical side then I can go out and apply it to the real world, it seems simple but trying to apply it may be difficult. Its like I want to learn it on paper (or words form) then take it outside and test it system wise to see if there is a sound difference associated with it. Question #1: I understand how if you drop the sub sonic filter below the high pass filter it will attenuate the frequencies lower than the subsonic filter faster than the ones above it till it reaches the high pass filter point. So if the sub sonic filter and high pass filter are the same then it will attenuate the frequencies below both filters. So does it affect the frequencies above the filters? Question #2: Can you set the sub sonic filter above the high pass filter (I know manually you can just by turning the knob but is it common). For example if you set the high pass filter at 500Hz and sub sonic filter at 750Hz or higher, how would it affect the frequencies? Thanks Guys

Its soo hard for me to abundantly learn without some visual aides. I need to see it, to understand it. Dont worry dude. It will come to you eventually. I thought I was going to shit myself on Impious' last post! Haha yeah I feel you and we are on the same tip, when I go out there and mess with the filters I can hear the difference but I kinda want to know why that difference is happening or how it is happening? Then I didnt know it was gonna be that technical but hey time is my friend so it will come to me with the help of these knowledgeable individuals on this forum.

Honestly Impious if those graphs were helping me I wouldnt be asking these questions but I can go with High pass filter 1 and high pass filter 2. My high pass filter 1 is my amps filter since I have the filter on the headunit as through so the amp controls it till I get a better headunit. After reading posts #85My link Im getting a better understanding of the slope thing.

Sorry bigrank916, dont mean to be difficult but let me start over so we can get this down because I want to buy the wood this weekend and get them to cut it at Home Depot. I want it to be a rear firing port and subwoofer enclosure (17"H x 33"W x 21''D=max dimensions, /75" mdf) double baffle, between 3.75-3.85ft^3 @ 31hz.

x2, is there a way I can get that program so I can play with it and make some changes.

Well not a problem at all I understand, Im gonna need for you to do a little more work and I will be done. Can we change the max dimensions depth to 20"D and lower the tuning close to 30Hz (30-30.5hz) and volume after displacement 3.6-3.8ft^3. Thanks and I promise Im stuck with these numbers I just posted.

Naw I dont need any 45's, I think a double baffle will suffice enough (I already though of doing that). So is it 3.72ft^3 @ 30.63 or 30.01hz for tuning, perfect box man I definitely appreciate it. Happy New Years to you and yours.

Just curious as to what the white blocks are in the port, if you dont want to answer I understand. But thanks a million again.

Ok well if you ever consider selling you enclosure software keep me in mind. Thanks Again.

I got a negative reputation to this specific post, and I am just curious to why i would even get one for this, there is absolutely nothing wrong with this message???? Sry if i bother anyone, i'm just confused at this. I evened you out, your neutral now.

What prices are you looking at for both amps? If you are comparing 1500D to 3000D then their prices are identical right? Have you looked for some second hand saz1500D? I've seen some for 300$. I don't know how much is AudioPipe but you can find some good amps for cheap. Look here for actual power : SSA Car Audio Forum -> Sundown Technical

I am designing an enclosure for a Sundown Audio Z-15 (D4 wired to 2 ohms on a Sundown Audio SAZ-2000D), it will be a daily driver. I listen to a lot of chopped and screwed, r&b, old school and rap so I decided to stick with 31Hz. This may be a temporary box or a full time box depending on how it and the sub treat me. I havent build a box since August of 2008 so its been a while, my max dimensions are 16.5"H x 34"W x 21"D. Jacob told me I can make the enclosure as big as 4ft^3 and tuning anywhere from 30-35Hz and 28Hz if I wanna go lower. So right now Im sitting with a box at 3.85ft^3 @ 31hz with 60 in^2 of port area (port area range = 46-62in^2). Made of 3/4" mdf, standard slot port (l-shaped) opening. Enclosure Dimensions Outside = 16.5"H x 33"W x 20"D Port = 15"H x 4"W x 29.75"D Sub Displacement = 0.19ft^3 Physical Port Length = 15.25" Cut-Out Baffles Back = 33" x 15" Front = 28.25" x 15" Right Side = 18.5" x 15" Left Side = 19.25" x 15" Port 1 = 14.5" x 15" Port 2= 7.75" x 15" Bottom/Top = 33" x 20" (2) Thanks for help, if there need to be any corrections than let me know I would appreciate it. I got the specs from two different box designing programs.