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You Can find all the info needed for this subject at the below URL Enclosure Designs

As most of you know, I do measurements for a living. So I have a few pet peeves about how things are done in this industry. Nothing is standardized and the accuracy of everything is questionable and typically quite subjective. In this thread, I would like to address something I would like to see standardized and that is the sensitivity of loudspeakers. There are a lot of you car audio nuts that are afraid to run home audio drivers in your car due to the fact they are 8ohms, but you really shouldn

Just wanted to show off SSA's new addition to the site. With the help from JBLCAMRY we have had 33 enclosure designs made up for every subwoofer that we sell. This will be a great resource for all to use, whether you use our products or not, you will find this section handy i'm sure. Anyways, on to the screen shots. All of this can be found at: Sound Solutions Audio - Technical Center Enjoy

ok, just added each enclosure's internal ft^3 on the splash page for easier navigation on the page.

SSA is an awesome place. Tons of info and no bull. And everyone here seems to want to help instead of flaming the person for being an idiot.

Belt squeel means the belt is slipping which can mean its not turning your alternator to charge your electrical. Till you get this fixed i would advise you to keep your bump down and watch that voltage to avoid ruining your battery.

for one you have to use sd to either dampen or undampen a line. if the line is way to dampened in tradional sence it is considered way to learn with tight bass. port act completly different then a line and can be tuned in a way that is simulair to that of a ported in other words tweeked till you get spl or hard pucnchy bass kinda like a ported you go so big on the box and tune it to 28 to 33 hertz the note flatens out and becomnes boomy. ior smaller with a higher tune you get spl. now with a line you can make it peak changeing the sd larger or flaten it out by smaller number for sd this is all part of tuning a line. if he knows any thing he would no this and all he give is bs. btw i thought there was a rule about people postiong if they did not know what there talking then stfu. Apart from the explanation that hardly made sense, you should quit the attitude. I'm willing to bet that 95Honda has quite a bit more experience building transmission lines. It's very frustrating to see all the hype surrounding this design.

oldenglish- Context is your friend. If you re-read my posts you will note that the word "tuning" is used in reference to a resonation point, not the adjustment of the overall alignment. Once you make this connection, everything else will fall in place. It also help if you communicate with a little more clarity and brevity than a 12 year old.

some batteries may not have enough CCA or CA's so when it gets cold it may not be able to output the necessary amps to start your car.

that should save you a couple thousand e-mails lol

nice work. keep it up. king of audio sites!

Sundown - SAZ, SAX series built by Zenon (One of the top amplifier buildhouses in Korea) to Sundown specs. 10-18 volt operating range, Strappable, Great crossover flexibility. Great Customer Service. SAE series built in China to Sundown Specs. Less expensive, Great Customer Service. SAZ - 4500D also built in Korea by another buildhouse. Incriminator Audio - iirmc is built by Zenon to IA specs. Small footprint, Strappable, Great Customer Service, Crossover Flexibility, 10-18 volt operating range. Stetsom - Built in Brazil, powerful, small footprint. No other experience other than what I have read. RD - Shady owner, Shady buisness practices, Poor Customer service, Just search the net on RD audio and you will see the horror stories.

Wow! Just one more reason that SSA is the best Car Audio forum on the net!

screen shot from a few of the pages. In all there will be over 40 designs uploaded plus 3D drawings of all woofers to scale *still a work in progress, this is a huuuuge section of the website

Actually .5 ohms is less resistance than 1 ohm. But you're missing the point of this thread. This isn't talking about getting a D1 or D2 option on a single sub. It's about the design of the speaker itself in the grand scheme of things. Whether you get a D2 sub and wire it to 1 ohm and put 1,000 watts on it or get the D1 version and wire to 0.5 ohm and put 1,000 watts on it is irrelevant. Those instances will in all likelihood have the exact same output. It would take a complete redesign of the motor to have the effects this thread is talking about.

Actually, I couldn't have been happier with my Icon on 300.

Actually, you need to read Martin King's entire primer on T-lines before you ask any more questions. I have been using his guidlines for T-lines for almost 10 years and find them invaluable. Seriously, read this befor eyou ask any more questions.

Hey guys, I use two Korean build houses for amps -- the 4500D is made in a different place than my other Korean amps. I use a Chinese build house for the SAE-1200D and future SAE models (SAE-1000D was Korean). I am slowly tooling proprietary boards for Sundown one at a time... the SAZ-3500D is my board tooling, the SAZ-2500D is my board tooling, and I have several more in the works that I have not discussed. Same build house does not make all the amps the same. Support, warranty, and service also make a big difference and are the #1 reason people keep coming back to Sundown. PS: All of the new Incriminator amps are proprietary boards for IA as well. I know the guys over at IA and they make a fine product.

And there are as many bad ones about Steve at RD as there are good about Jacob. BTW, it is SUPER easy to take a great design and cut costs and ruin it. Why do you think some amps fail and others don't? Even from the same buildhouse? Why do you think a good speaker builder will spend as much (if not more) on his passive crossovers as he did drivers, but that car audio comp sets have crossovers you could build for $10? Component selection is critical, build is important, and board layouts well they aren't that much of a deal. It isn't like amplifier technology has changed all that much in the past 10 years.

x2

1)Zenon amps are korean, not chinese. Korean>China 2) RD has changed thier buildhouse to a chinese one for alot of their amps, the only ones that are zenon are the d5,d9 IIRC 3) AQ has the moved to china as well( from rumors that I have heard). 4) No way in hell would I deal with RD audio for anything, ever. Have dealt with Jacob on quite a few amps already, even some warranty work and he is amazing. NOBODY would do the warranty/customer service he does, Period. 5) AQ has the power cheaper, and is a decent guy to work with( from what I have heard) 6) Heard good things about IA as well. 7) Go Sundown, you will not be dissapointed. DONT BUY RD !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Edit: spelling PS: DONT BUY RD !!!!!!!!!!

Better not run them by your ground either :eek: Obviously neither matter. And all of those people know nothing about wire. If you can't measure an LCR difference you sure the hell can't hear it. Actually super cheap copper would be fine and still wouldn't be the "weakest" link. Hell if you could shield a coat hanger, go for it. Any shielded RCA that was decently assembled will be more than fine.

Just as different vehicles are designed for different applications, so are speakers. I offroad all the time, and Ferraris have 4 wheels and are great cars... so why wouldnt I go rock crawling in that? Doesnt mean that the Ferrari is a POS, just that offroading or towing a trailer isnt the best idea for them. TS params indicate what application a sub should be used in. In the case of the BTL, the high motor force, low Qts, and small Vas indicate a ported speaker. A low motor force, higher Qts, and huge Vas often indicates a huge sealed application or IB specific sub. BTLs will not explode into flames in sealed, but as mentioned so eloquently above, they will sound like poop. Thanks, Scott

RF marine subwoofer can be used in infinite baffle

your system is only as good as the weakest link..... but there is no point in spending $100+ on a pair of RCA's unless the rest of the system is up to the same level............. you would be fine with a mid grade RCA , just make shure thay have good quality ends and are OFC copper

If you're getting noise then maybe the conectors on your RCA may be problems or tears or rips in the RCA but buying expensive RCAs will do nothing for sound quality or performance.

It's not true, because "better grade" (i.e. fancy and expensive) RCA's are unnecessary anywhere in the system. I agree, but i know people who would object that opinion lol. As long as you keep your RCA's away from your power wires you should be just fine.

It's not true, because "better grade" (i.e. fancy and expensive) RCA's are unnecessary anywhere in the system.

Any sub on 2000 watts will get loud, what you need to do is give us goals and any other information so we can help you make a better decision on what will be good for your application. I think they recommend ported for there subs, if you want any information them go to audioque.com and do some research. You can also talk to DJ as he answers all the calls and will answer all your questions you have about his products. thank you..I went on the site no information about box reccomendations.My stock alt is 160 can i do the big 3 and 1 kinetic 2400 and 1 xs powe 3100?

Oh so true. 1W/1m is infinitely more useful than 2.83V and it is always fun to see a 102dB at 2.83 V 12" sub from some companies. Creative marketing at its finest when it is a dual 1 Ohm coil and you only know they measured the driver in parallel with 2.83 V. Looks much nicer to measure things at 16W vs 1W...lol Nevermid the fact that the tolerence factor for overall TS params is huge with such a low DCR as well (how many of you have meters that read to .001 Ohms let alone measure "0" when you cross out the leadwires... now you can see how even .1 Ohm makes a HUGE difference when you are measuring a DCR of .5 Ohms for TS param calculation. 20% error... vs 5% if measured in series at 2 Ohms.... or about 1% on an 8 Ohm driver. Now from a little different viewpoint... Id love to buld 8 Ohm drivers. I can make an 8 Ohm driver do the same thing as a .5 Ohm driver, but with a smaller motor and often more overall efficiency which translates into less cost to the customer. Why dont I? Well because the market keeps heading in the direction of ultra low impedance amps and setups. The problem with this is that you are moving into a much higher current than voltage and you need to use heavier AWG wire to handle the current... which in turn makes the gaps larger/reduces flux density, increases moving mass, and requires larger motors and heavier duty parts in general. At 8 Ohms, you have signifcantly more voltage than current which means that you can reduce the wire AWG, tighten up gaps, and often shrink the motor down to maintain overall specs. I have hi-pot tested coils to over 1000V with no arcing or shorting between turns. But try to run 100 A through 20 awg wire and things tend to get mad. You do have increase inductance with a higher impedance coils of the same winding height, but relative to the DCR, it is often better of a ratio than the inductance vs dcr on the .5 Ohm coil which translates into better high frequnecy extension. As for the other stuff of interest... a higher impedance driver is not always higher efficiency with the above formula in real world practice either. Looking at a 3" coil that has 2" of windheight of round aluminum wire for coils of DCR 6.13 Ohms and 3.07 Ohms. If we jockeyed the B to be the same between both motors (by either keeping the same motor and gap for both coils, or by shrinking the motor and tighening the gap on the higher DCR coil because we can) we can knock that out of the equation. Same goes for SD since both drivers will use the same soft parts... so what we are left with is L^2 / (R * Mms^2) Since this is a normalized number we only look to see the higher value as being more efficient... For the 6.1 Ohm coil we have a wire length of 74.44m and a moving mass of 80g. Looking at it with only coil mass will yield a value of .1417 for the 6 Ohm and .111 for the 3 Ohm coil. And indeed the higher impedance coil is more efficient. But... now add the balance of the soft part moving mass of say 100g and the 6 Ohm coil is now .0280 and the 3 Ohm is .0284... 3 Ohm becomes more efficient then. Or by the example above keeping the wire Awg the same and decreasing wind height to drop DCR, you have a 3.07 Ohm coil with the same wire as the 6.13 Ohm coil with a wire length of 37.84m. Adding in the same soft part mass, you end up with a value of .0234 which is lower than both other drivers... but I would think that having half the windheight would have other drastic implications depending on how the gap height to wind height ratio is as well... with a gap of 1", you got to an even hung setup where you are not even using the balance of stray field either... resulting in more issues. At .500" gap height and even stray field both sides, you might get all of the useable B over the L of the wire with the shorter coil, but no where near the linearity of the the other two options. Keep in mind that the "l" in this equation is not the overall length of wire on the coil, but what portion of the wire is being acted on from the flux in the gap (plus stray field out of the gap). With a 4 layer coil you have an Le of 8.34 mH for the 6 Ohm and 5.25 mH for the 3 Ohm... first glance looks like the lower Ohm coil is the winner due to reduced inductance, but when you actually calculate it based off of DCR/2Pi * H for the corner frequency, 6 Ohms is 116Hz and 3 Ohms is 92. Looks like the higher inductance/DCR coil will play up higher as well... There are several other ratios and relationships between gapping, coil, B, wire and other factors that really come into play in driver design. Bl in and of itself isnt always the key either. So at the end of the day, I am forced to keep pushing in the wrong direction... Oh well, it seems that 40 lbs speakers that can do the same thing as a 90lb counterpart just dont look as cool

Picking solely on xmax, would be a stupid decision... but I do love me some excursion, and I look at it as a plus.I look at my warn status, and you talk about me being a douche and you don't like my attitude, when you come off with an attitude on countless post... you told me to post nice or not post at all... shit you never come off as "nice" and from the looks of things you are the one that comes off as a "douche".