Leaderboard

I noticed a protect/pop issue on mine, but then I read the manual and noticed why. Haven't had it since, don't have any noise problems either.

Just an FYI... they can take anywhere from 1 to 10 days to build depending on how busy we are. Please do not ask for status updates the next day -- it just takes us away from finishing everyone's woofers. This goes for ANY custom job... re-coning a woofer, building drop-ins, NS v.2, Z v.2, etc. We try to keep it down to 5 days or less but it can take longer sometimes !

Ok, that's 2 confirmations! I can't take credit for that idea (user AccordFlex suggested it) but good to see it works Here is the thread on 6GA if you get around to registering and posting...I'll be putting a post in there right now Voltage Drop Question - 6th Gen Accord DIY and Performance forums

If your looking for ear loudness then most of the time a ported enclosure will be louder than sealed. If your going with the XCON, your getting a very good versatile driver that can perform great in both sealed and ported.

Welcome to the wonderful world of the Honda Electronic Load Detection system! This post basically sums it up 6th Gen Accord DIY and Performance forums - View Single Post - Voltage Drop Question If these cars were offered in Japan, we could simply swap to a JDM ECU. What I've thought about so far are a couple things: -(Kind of confirmed from another 6GA member) Drive with your headlights on -(Unconfirmed as of right now) Add in the Canadian OEM DRL module so there is a constant load -(Unconfirmed) Convert to OBDI with a P28 or P13 ECU -(Undone as far as I'm aware) Add some kind of resistor network to the ECU to fool it -EDIT: (Would have to ask a tuner) Remove ECU and move to a standalone like AEM EMS So options are slim as of right now. Try your headlights for now, I guess. To fix the ELD issue, the load/fix will NEED to be recognized by the ECU. Pulling power off the battery using a relay harness or amp power wire doesn't work...hence the ELD kicking in. Edit: Had the ECU numbers backwards. Fixored.

Why don't you get out your tape measure and go use it?

Temporarily disconnect the 2nd battery to test the theory.

D4. Wire each sub's coils in series, giving you eight 8 ohm subs. Then wire all 8 in parallel = 1 ohm.

send a pm to Argent Audio. He seems to be on top of things around here.

I have the exact same setup and i went with a Crescendo Audio 3kwp. Its a fairly new company that has awesome prices for the quality of it. Its supposedly the same guts as the Sundown 3000d and Atomic 3000 except for sundown custom heatsinks. The amp does put out rated power and it is warrantied at .5 ohms and has a 2 year transferable warranty. Check it out and it costs $550.00 shipped

i found this bench in tampa. lol had to take a pic to show ya

well it would depend what we are comparing here, basically the advantages of a component set are: better crossovers and independent mounting location of tweeter. if your willing to install a new set of speakers in your doors but too lazy to not mount the tweeters in different places to get a better stage then why bother going thru the trouble of replacing the speakers at all.. but if you want to make a better investment in your car stereo get a component set like i mentioned. maybe you will find that the tweeters sounds good next to the mid, you still have the advantage of a better xover. the only advantage there is to buy coaxs, imo, is that you can find them cheap as an upgrade from stock.... period if you worried about cutting your car up to mount the tweeters try this out.... go to walmart and get some velcro with the adhesive backing and stick the tweeter in the surface mount cups (using the velco patches on the back to stick the tweeter where u want them). put the tweeters close to the edge of trim panels so u can hid the wires without cutting a hole for them. (try different locations)

depends, in all honesty, one tiny air leak isn't going to make any audible difference. Let alone several tiny air leaks. None of that is audible. I strongly disagree. Have you ever even heard a leaky sealed enclosure? Yes, but we're not talking about a sealed enclosure are we? Also, Richard Clark must be a moron then. The same goes for a leaky vented enclosure. It's best to not have an air leak because that will make a weak spot in the joint, you'll have yourself a broken enclosure. Also, I don't give a flying fuck about Richard Clark.