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The optimum volume is listed in the description. There are even box plans. Do you not trust the people who have their name on the subs? Come on man.

same way you would do it on any other car, just different positioning of the components. may get tricky keeping the wires safe and away from moving/hot parts. unless you're asking for specific people who have done it before, i cant help you. get a chiltons or something and study the stock location of the wires and follow those.

If your going to add more amps later you should wire accordingly. So if in the future you'll have a sub amp and front stage amps I'd just go 1/0 now and then you don't have to spend more money and time later upgrading. For your fuses between batteries, you want to fuse to the capacity of the wire itself. So the knukonceptz 1/0 wire I have is rated to 250 amps. So I have 250 amp fuses to go inbetween. Then you can run the appropriate size wire from the rear battery to your amps. I'll have 1/0 to my sub amp and 4 gauge to my front stage amp. With appropriately sized fuses for each amp. In my case 150 and 80.

An epic waste of money putting that many mids in there. And time, and space....

Your best connection would come from running a wire straight to it from a little hole in the side. But not as removable then. But yes a copper bolt would be the best bet from your list.

CEA Compliant doesn't mean shit.

It should be easy to set the highs on just music. Keep turning it up until the vocals break up then back it down untit it sounds just as clean on low volume as it does on high volume only louder. If you notice it sounds harsh or different at a higher volume turn it down. IMO, You want it set a good bit lower than max output to cover the peaks. I always try to buy way more power than I need on my front amp just so I can keep the gains down and not clip or make the highs get harsh. Play around with it OP you will hear clipping. You may not want to hear it because you want to be louder, but you will hear it. Setting gains means you have to be brutally honest with yourself and with the capabilities of your set up.

My SA-8 parts are in with the SA-10s -- could be early May. In any event -- if you detach a spider just glue it back down with some 5-minute epoxy. Get it on the landing nice and evenly under the spider and press it down then also lay some of top in the little valley between the outside roll and the basket landing rim. Get the kind with the long mixing tube : Amazon.com: Henkel 1060027 Loctite 0.5-Ounce Instant-Mix 5 Minute Epoxy, Clear: Home Improvement Available at Lowes. It needs to be kept in mind that the SA-8 has a *VERY* strong motor (twice as strong as the other "big boy" 8s on the market)-- so if it is pushed beyond the operating range of the spider there is going to be enormous force pulling on the spider landing. I *highly* suggest looking at the power to box size thread and also using appropriate sub-sonic filters on them to keep throw in the operating range of the spider.

1kHz could be a bad tone to choose if it is after your crossover. Using a DMM to set your front stage gain is also a bad idea.

Search here first, explain what you looked for and why you couldn't find it. PM me and then I'll open your topic, otherwise you've been here long enough to know that you need to try harder than this.

Use the search function and do some research. It takes time and trial and error to learn all there is to learn when it comes to front stage setup. There are many knowledgeable members that will be able to answer your question in a technical manner. I am still learning as well.

I've been in the holding pattern for some time now. Progress has been SLOW. Anyway. All 3 of the boxes I've made sound good; however, I don't like how much real estate they've taken up. With the t-line and the kerfed port I didn't end up with any room for the amps or batteries. A word for the wise. Draw out available space and them portion out sections for equipment. Seems I got caught in using all of my energy on box design and not total system design. Anyway since the 8's have been around for a while optimum size has show it's self to be .6 cu for each sub. Off the top of my head the newest box is 18.25 x 17.75 x 14.5 deep subs facing up in a triangle pattern with one 4" aero port running under the single sub. This box is turning out perfect in assembly no leaks just using glue and screws. Finally got the wire ran from alt to battery. This single wire took over 3 hrs to access and install what a bugger. Only one run left to complete the big three from the battery to the back of car. While I have several sets of speakers on hand for the components and coaxial I'm not sure which ones I'll use. Available speakers are: 6pcs. 3.5" Still water designs Mohawk series full range 5 1/4 Zapco coaxial set 6.5 Still water designs Mohawk series mid-bass set 6.5 fusion components set Not available but considering is crescendo audio ccx6 I'm taking recommendations if offered please. I haven't been able to totally finish the install because there has been always a critical piece missing. Currently is the SAX 100.4. Looks like this order because of a typo Using the audio control LC6i means it's all or nothing. It's wired to a new plug which directly plugs into the factory unit leaving oem wiring in place and running new system wires. NO t-taps here. Since I'm still stuck in the mud I'm also considering the Sound deadning but this will set me back another month!

Assuming the amplifier has flat frequency response and you have all of the filters disabled the amplifier will output the same voltage at any frequency (within it's linear range) for a given load.

I would use my ear when setting amp gains for my interior speakers, if your going active then run each set of speakers individually so you can hear the strain on them. It will be hard to tell when a tweeter is straining when you have your midbass and subs blasting too.

An epic waste of money putting that many mids in there.

he cant really give you a shipping quote off of nothing. lol depends on how big/heavy the box weighs, not just location

http://www.sundownaudio.com/index.php/frequently-asked-questions.html

between the range of 120dB to 155dB

If you need air couldn't you just bust the window? -- i might be thinking too ghetto...