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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/29/2010 in all areas

  1. 2 12" ssa icons (prototype?) review First thing I noticed when I unpackaged them was how well built they were. The huge triple stack motor, well you guys can read the specs but the craftsmanship on these drivers is top notch. In my setup I had dual 1ohm drivers wired to 1ohm on saz-1500d amp. My electrical is stock besides the big 3 done, so I couldn't really take full advantage of the amp, but that was okay because the icons still got loud, very loud. I probably had the gain turned up 2/5 on the saz. First song I played was Narayan by The Prodigy, bass kicking in at 0:44 sounding nice and crisp at low volume, got a couple rattles here and there in the jeep. I then turned it up to hear what it could really do, the rave of the drivers, and I was astounded to hear earth shattering bass without losing any sound quality. My esophagus was tensing up and parts in my vehicle were moving and rattling that I didn't think was possible. My mirrors druped down for god's sake. Everyone knows the icons are SQ based drivers, but they do in fact get loud. Big fat punch to the gut. Next song was Cyanide by Metallica. Every drum line was dead-on, never missing a beat. These drivers carry a punch and sound amazing doing it. I couldn't ask for more, hitting the lows like I never knew possible. When setting up my amp settings and playing some test tones in the garage, I made a roll of paper towels fall from a shelf (just thought I'd share cause it was awesome ) I'll be posting another review once I have the electrical to backup my amp and the icons are broken in. Enclosure Specs: 3.5 @ 33Hz 3.5 air space .28 sub disp .077 bracing 3.75 x 12.5 port area = 13.4 sq in of port per cube Videos (sorry the camera sucks picking up audio)
  2. a bass knob works in one of two ways. 1. a remote gain adjustment that laters the impedance of the input stage of the amplifier 2. (most common) a remote amplitude cut/boost (voltage) adjustment to a fixed (or variable) frequency point with a fixed Q (slope.) It's like a remote EQ slider. The Epicenter is a digital bass restoration device. You send the Epicenter a full range, uncrossed over signal. The epicenter looks at this signal and computes, based on higher octaves, what it believes should be present in low frequencies. If bass frequencies are already present in the source material, the Epicenter won't add anything. . It uses some subharmonic algorithms to figure out what it thinks should be present in the low frequencies based on what it sees in the higher frequencies. You choose on the Epicenter what range of frequencies you want to adjust, both the center point and how wide of a range to adjust. That is done on the unit itself with 2 knobs labelled 'wide' and 'sweep'. Directly from Audiocontrol - "The Sweep knob allows the user to pick the center frequency of the bass restoration. With the Sweep knob turned all the way to the left, The Epicenter® is centering restoration on 27Hz. With the Sweep knob turned all the way to the right, The Epicenter® is centering on 63Hz. The middle position represents approximately 45Hz. The Sweep knob can be set to center The Epicenter®'s restoration anywhere between 27Hz and 63Hz. The Wide knob allows the user to control the width of the restoration. With the Wide knob turned all the way to the left, bass response is tighter and harder hitting. With the Wide knob turned all the way to the right, the bass response becomes more booming and open." Once you've tuned the unit to 'boost' (create) bass in the right frequency range, you then adjust how much restoration you want by turning the knob that is mounted in the front of your vehicle. Because the epicenter takes an uncrossed over signal to work correctly, you must cross over your signal AFTER the epicenter, which means if you are using crossovers on your head unit, you'll need a full-range output for the Epicenter, or you'll need to switch to an external crossover. Along with this digital bass restoration, the epicenter functions as a line driver, yielding up to a 10 volt output. It supports both balanced and unbalanced inputs. You can make ANY music absolutely thunderous with the epicenter. You can also drive your amplifier into HARD clipping EXTREMELY easily if you do not know what you are doing. The Epicenter is a bass-head's toy, not much more. Using it on some music results in muddy worthlessness. Using it on other music results in sickeningly deep, punchy and consuming bass. It's hit or miss, and you only get to tune the frequencies in which to recreate bass on the unit itself, so you can't tweak it for each song. You've just got the ability to turn it 'off' or adjust how much it recreates by turning it up. It's a glorified parametric EQ merged with a harmonic bass restoration device. Read the manual for some pretty pictures showing what i described Epicenter manual A parametric EQ allows you the following adjustments over the number of bands specified on the unit: Cut/Boost - (as described, raises or lowers the amplitude of the signal) Frequency center - (picks the exact frequency to adjust. not fixed points like an in-dash slider EQ) Q/slope - how quickly (sttep or shallow) the signal rises or drops back to the unaltered amplitude in either direction beyond the frequency center point being adjusted. these 3 settings are available for each of the bands on a parametric EQ. (example: Alpine 3401 and 3402 7-band EQs, retired models) An alternative to a parametric for system tuning is a 1/3 octave EQ, which offers 31 bands from 20-20,000Hz, with a fixed Q, and variable cut/boost at each frequency. (example: AudioControl EQT)
  3. If your using an SSA woofer, they have a GREAT technical section with blueprints for enclosures so you can build your own, which is the cheapest thing to do

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