Leaderboard

the origional skins...mids mounted free air directly to the door

95 degree weather all week and I was stuck inside studying for an exam. From a book which is at best read by people with a passion for AI. Page after page and nothing sinks in...

That sucks about the cd thing.I've read the rules so I saw it before hand. I've seen a lot of guys in my org have head units that were ran from outside their vehicles. As a computer guy I've seen USB as the replacement for optical drives for some time. You would think an organization like dbdrag would recognize the trend and at least offer a decent option like a file set that contains their tones for transfer for say 5 bucks to USB drive. With all the head units on the market these days with USB option you would think they would consider that

Seeing you next to that box give's you a whole different perspective on how big it is... nicely done.

Yup, shim it and sand the spider landing and where the spider connects to it, then reglue, put pressure on it, and wait 24 hours.

Clamping the DC side of the amp would tell you how much power the amplifier is drawing from the electrical system, not outputting to the speaker. When someone "clamps" an amp they are measuring the output side of the amp, which is AC. They normally keep a DMM on the power input side to monitor what the input voltage is dropping to, but that's not how they are deriving their power output figures. Anyways.....many people fall under this delusion that they are performing some meaningful act by "clamping" their amplifiers. As Crazy said, they connect their amplifier to a load (normally just a subwoofer in most cases) and play a test tone. They then use a DMM to measure the voltage output from the amplifier and a clamp meter to measure the current on the output side of the amplifier while playing the test tone. They then use basic ohms law to calculate power (Voltage * Amps = Power) and the impedance of the load (Voltage/Amps = Resistance). As I previously mentioned, most people will also use a DMM on the power input side of the amplifier to monitor the voltage drop the electrical supply is experiencing. The problem is, 99% of the time people are simply wasting their time. It's a mostly meaningless endeavor that has been perpetually (and incorrectly) promoted on the internet as having actual relevance. There are several problems with this method. Along with being able to question the accuracy of the measurements themselves for various reasons (accuracy of the devices, the type of measurement being conducted, the varying impedance of the load, the varying stability of the supply, etc), many people try to compare these "clamp test" results to the manufacturer rated power. The problem is, the manufacturer's rated power is specified at a certain distortion level. Nobody performing these clamp tests are measuring distortion. One could make any amplifier appear highly underrated very easily in one of these "clamp" tests as there is a total disregard of distortion.

i would like to apologize to the fi and ssa forums for my outbursts at other users language and additude it is not my style.....i got a bit mad and lost my head....i do not like being called a liar for no reason... to doubt me is your right as an individual.....but to just bash me and slander my name is equally wrong but none the less i offer my apology to all that i offended...

It's not really fair comparing the low end extension of a new sub versus one that is broken in...give the Dcon some time and her fs will drop to rated parameters...

i just dont want to be taken the wrong way... im a stand up person...i really am.... if anything i learned to have my videos ready before i ever post... i just did not think it would be like this....but thats my fault

also learned how to post pics and vids

nope, subsonic filter is dependent upon an install, not sub in general. I've done setups where the subsonic needed to be set HIGHER than the tuning frequency and i've done setups where NO subsonic was needed at all tuned in the low 30s. You set the subsonic filter by mechanical means using test tones. You don't want the sub bottoming out so don't let it. Set it at the limit you want to. Maybe you want pure quality so u set it to prevent the sub from jumping out of it's xmax rating or u just want plain loud and you would set it to right before it starts bottoming out. Subsonic filter is a preference filter like a low pass filter but is more important than a LPF because it has safety purposes as well. Adjust it by install because going by a rule of thumb can still allow a sub to bottom out or reduce potential out of your install. Also, box modeling programs do NOT work with car audio. Due to how a car is laid out, a program cannot even attempt to accurately tell you anything right... and depending on what you are using it for, even calculating port tuning can be WAY off if competing! Box modeling programs may work a lot better if your setup is installed in an environment with the least obstacles in the music room which means in an environment with the least "room gain" and attractions that can influence how the sound is reproduced. these software programs can't account for things like that and anything that can cause a gain in pressure or a room that resonates at a or certain frequencies or one that is full of obstacles will have acoustical properties that will change what any box modeling software will tell you.