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this post is very important for daily system This is a lil formula that i use to first get the batteries for the amplifier If you are buying an amplifier like the 5k2e lets say you are going to try to keep your voltage around 13.5 volts to try make over 5000rms lil crazy formula, too make 5000rm at 13.5 volts 5000/13.5 = 370 you will need more than 370 amps continuous on your system i would rounded up and use 4 battery that each of them give you around 100ah + and a alternator to keep up the voltage and charger them !!! ( charger battery you never should have more than 2.4 to 2.5 volts on each cell, its around 14.4 volts ) high voltage can damage your batteries. lose performance on the current ( the most important ) so you can make clean power for your subs for nice time playing not a 30 secs demo You also need to that every SUB needs a 3db headroom to handle varies peak of tone which is very common on music, this 3db is twice much of power, im not telling you to put over twice much power on the subwoofer but to have a amplifier that gives twices much more power that you subs needs This will eliminate part of the power compression, when the subs voice coils rise with temperature leading to reducing the efficiency on the sub to 2db The lowest impedance wont help you to make more power (clean) like 0.5 0.35 this only will kill your batteries faster, this EITHER IS THE RIGHT WAY to fight your impedance rise To fight impedance rise, is not voltage is current !!! amps because the amplifier will need more power to produce more specially on low tones Amplifiers are equipments made to amplify the power you have (battery or power supply) to the subs If you dont have power (battery ) the amplifier will not make miracles, you cant go against physics if you this 3db room of power on your system even when you play low tone the amplifier and your electrical system will have power to them because explain better when you sub hits at 40hz the power consumption is bigger than 60hz, with this vary tones on the music, you neither need a unlimited power source (like a power supply) to give you power for the whole song because the batteries are limited source of power, after you subs hits 10 times at 40hz your batteries wont have the same performance and need your alternator are gonna keep up because the power consumption is bigger to make continuous power then with a setup with a 3db headroom on power, you subs will be hitting hard all day long because your power consumption is less than what you making this 3db rule i lot of company in brazil have this in their subs manuals, ( they recommended that so you can get most outta their equipment and be happy, you dont see amplifiers company doing this because it makes a lot of people think this amplifiers dont make power they are telling to use one with twice much power, you know im just letting you guys know how to setup and get the most outta the amplifiers and subs, because there is a lots facts that makes you amplifier make less power Ex: I got this store owner for more than 10 year on the market, he wanted to buy a 14k2e and install on a truck and i asked him about the electrical system for the amplifier this is his answer im gonna install two Powermaster D3100 which it gives 5000 watts each that should be enough to make 10000 watts This is the secret on the electrical system for your car always make more power than you need so you can keep it up nowadays with big amplifier its hard for you to keep it up with the power consumption on the big amplifier you neither need a lot of batteries or get a power supply if there is no power produce to keep up with the consumption of the amplifier first the current is gonna go down and efficiency too ( the amplifier will start to get hot) then the voltage and distortion will be produce and kill the coils on your subs !! This applies to any amplifier, this is physics im writing this out because a lot of people a asking this i hope this helps, im not much of a teacher i cant explain stuff well but here it is having any question just let me know

i would like to apologize to the fi and ssa forums for my outbursts at other users language and additude it is not my style.....i got a bit mad and lost my head....i do not like being called a liar for no reason... to doubt me is your right as an individual.....but to just bash me and slander my name is equally wrong but none the less i offer my apology to all that i offended...

lol

the origional skins...mids mounted free air directly to the door

time for the door pods.... three pairs of Diamond Audio HEX series 5.25" components with silk tweeters ..three mids and two tweets in each door along with three X-Overs and one tweet in each pillar

I had the LI series 15" and loved them! Great SQ and got plenty loud & low for me! I now have a DR 18" that I will be building a box for soon! DR is the higher power big brother of the LI series and the little bother of the DP series. IA and SSA make great drivers with exceptional customer service. Cannot go wrong with either company!

It's probably in the "order of operation". If you view the help file (or Getting Started or whatever it's called), one of the topics gives you the order to input the parameters, which parameters will auto-calculate and basically walks you through it. You will need to let WinISD auto-calculate certain parameters (which may vary slightly compared to the manufacturer's parameters, in most cases it's not enough variance to matter in the modeling). If you don't do this, chances are good the input figures won't match exactly with what WinISD calculates they should be and it won't let you save the file. Also keep in mind that the Re listed on Fi's website is per coil, so you will need to double Re (since the parameters are with coils in series) when you input it into WinISD. Nope its doing exactly what it's supposed to do. The BTL cannot be modeled in WinISD. Sure it can. The BTL isn't a physics-defying transducer. It's not that modeling programs can't model the BTL. The "issue" is that WinISD and other modeling programs suggest certain "target curves" which the BTL's parameters don't allow it to meet with a reasonably sized enclosure. So yes, while it's best to stay within Fi's recommended enclosure range and not use the modeling programs suggestions.....getting the driver loaded into a modeling program and comparing the differences in enclosure volumes and tunings within Fi's recommended range will help the user determine which alignment fits their needs best or the differences between them.

haha nice captions to go along with a sexy enclosure

6ft @ 31 definitely looks the nicest

JUST CURIOUS, HOW MUCH DOES A BTL 15" COST? AND AN 18" BTL?