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I am the all knowing phi... Your set-up will sound decently loud. You will annoy the fuck outta people around you and you will end up frying your equipment. But all isn't lost because someone will then steal all of your car audio equipment and you won't have to worry about fried equipment anymore. Thank you. come again.

Drop your tuning down to around 33hz and the XCON should be a low end monster with great overall SQ! Really no comparison imo, SSA ftw!

There isn't an ohm setting on any amplifier. A lot of people new to audio get this confused. There are only a limited number of ways you can wire your woofers that determine the ohms load. Which ever load you prefer/need to get the desired power to your woofers is the load you choose from the few choices. We need to know the number of woofers and their coil type/ohm rating. Think of it this way. You have a bad ass car (your amplifier), but you hook up 4 tons of dead weight behind it (4 ohm load) its going to slow the car down. Or in the case if your amplifier, it won't produce a lot of output power. Well if you lower the load, the car goes faster (amp puts out more power). If you don't have enough load, your car will break loose and you will end up in a ditch. (You're amp will get damaged) Although people run sundowns at 0.5 ohms daily, they have a good/great electrical system (or they should). If you're electrical isn't special, stay at/above 1 ohm.

For This BMW 850i, 12 into 6 May Equal $13,000 only 13k!

I can actually say, since I used to own a CVR on the same kind of set up, that the DCON's sound way better, and since its ported it hits harder too, but thats just my opinion.

Aluminum coils take more power because they are flatwound, they have more surface area for cooling. Copper coils gave more mass, they are heavier.

Copper-Versus-Aluminum Conductors

Exactly, I really hate it when noobs try to say otherwise. my bad.. I just figured if you were playing a BL to its full potential it would be louder than a BTL that isn't getting pushed so hard. It's a common misconception, but physics does not allow it.

I don't know that I'd turn the gain on the amp ALL the way up. I think it would be too easy to accidentally flip the remote gain over a few notches too far and send it into clipping. I'd rather set the gain on the amp properly, then use the remote to turn it down. You'd also have a lot more finite and incremental control over the output of the subs that way.

BTL's don't need a minimum amount of power, BTL's will be louder than BL's in a direct swap FYI.

Let me google that for you

Fi:

NEVER ask about which sub without giving EXACTLY how much space you have for a box. The previous owner may have had 4 MT's but perhaps he was a complete dipshit and had them in WAY too small of an enclosure. I would run a Hifonics if someone gave one to me.

nice name pussy wooped.

SIR YOUR TYPE R'S are for the

Don't post crap like that in someones thread. I LIKE BBQ CHICKEN..

I don't need the wireing dieagram..... and the FI Q has .75 per coil so it does come out to 1.5 not 2.

there isnt 4 fi's more like 2... lying SOB.. my 1 FI Q 15 hits harder then both of yours.. upgrade your electrical douche.. you should see how my trunk on my altima shakes with just 1.,.. cant wait for my second hehehehehe