Leaderboard

So I heard you liked Ford Raptors and turbos? Too bad its from Hennessey

A new TeamSSA member about to get his subs on order. Check out his video's. TeamSSA Malibu Progress Update Dual 300 amp Alts Crescendo Audio times 3

Ported: 2.5-2.75ft^3 @ 26-33hz opt. specs are from ssaudio.com I would do 2.75cubes 30hz but whatever volume fits your vehicle

Yeah they sell the latest version of it.

For you pic whores:

It's definitely best to use them in combination - you don't want the MLV to be in direct contact with the sheet metal. Use CCF to lift it off. It gets confusing because you'll see a lot of pretty outrageous claims made for CCF. Some people claim it blocks sound, others say it absorbs it. In reality, it does neither very well at all. You need to think of CCF as serving a mechanical and not an acoustical function: it keeps two things that would otherwise be in contact with each other apart. This can be MLV and sheet metal or a trim panel and sheet metal. It basically stops rattles and stops vibrations from being transmitted from one object to another. It's a gasketing material. You need mass to block sound. That's where MLV comes in. CCF is much to light to block anything useful at all. You need thickness to absorb. CCF is a poor absorber of sound for the same reason it won't absorb water. Even if it were a great absorber, a 1/8" thick material will only absorb frequencies above the audible range. A 1/4" material will just barely get into the audible range. This is why it makes no sense to line the outer skin with CCF to "absorb the back wave" from door mounted speakers. Who has speakers in their doors producing frequencies >= 27 kHz? Even if you did, how much are you willing to do to absorb it. If you wanted to absorb something meaningful, say 500 Hz, you'd need an absorbent material that's 6 or 7 inches thick. I've asked the people who claim CCF on the outer skin does wonders to explain how it does anything at all. They invariably say that they applied vibration damper to the outer skin, inner skin, trim panel and everything else they can reach. Then they applied a layer of CCF. After all of this, the speakers sound better, therefore the CCF did hat it was supposed to do The only solution that makes any sense is to acoustically reinforce the inner skin. Doing that makes what is going on with the back wave much less important. This is one of the reasons I always hang MLV on the inner skin if I can, especially if there are speakers in the doors. Adding MLV to either the inner skin or outer skin will do a pretty good job of blocking exterior noise. Inner skin improves speaker performance. Outer skin makes it harder to hear the speakers outside the car. Doors are one of the areas that frequently require us to make compromises - practical realities stop us from creating the theoretically ideal solution. For outer skin treatment I go Sheet Metal / CCF / MLV, using this technique. This requires sufficiently large access holes to get to the outer skin. The main practical reality to deal with when applying CCF and MLV to the inner skin is getting the trim panel back on. The ideal would be Sheet Metal / CCF / MLV / CCF / Trim Panel. In many cases, moving the MLV away from the sheet metal by even 1/8" will make it impossible to get the trim panel back on. For this reason, I usually hang the MLV directly on the inner skin and add a layer of CCF to the side facing the trim panel. WHen you reinstall the trim panel, the CCF compresses, the MLV is forced against the inner skin and it works out pretty well. Here's my usual door "recipe": ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Clean the outer skin thoroughly. No matter how clean the rest of the vehicle is, the inside of the doors is likely to be filthy. I use denatured alcohol on a rag. Wipe it down until the rag comes out clean. Start by pressing Extruded Butyl Rope (EBR) between the outer skin and the side impact protection beams. Leave gaps every few inches to allow water to drain. Cut some strips from a heavy plastic bag and press them into the top surface of the EBR to protect it from dirt. Apply half the CLD Tiles allocated to the outer skin above and half below the side impact protection beam. Cut 2 more CLD Tiles into smaller pieces and apply them to the inner door skin. Hang MLV on the inner door skin using Velcro Strips with pressure sensitive adhesive on both sides. The strips are 2"X4" but you can cut them in half for this application (most applications really). Start with 2 pieces in the top corners to hold the MLV in place while you trim it to fit. You want it to be as large as it can be - just barely fitting inside the trim panel when it is replaced. You will need to cut some holes in the MLV to allow cables, rods, shafts, wires, clips and the speakers to come through. You want these holes to be as small as possible. Every place we use MLV we are building a barrier and a barrier needs to be as large and contiguous as possible. It helps during the fitting process to periodically remove the MLV from the door and lay it in the trim panel to test fit it. The Velcro makes this easy. When you first hang the MLV on the door, cut holes where the trim panel clips go into the door. You can then use these holes to orient the MLV inside the trim panel. When you are satisfied with the MLV fit, add two more Velcro Strip pieces to the bottom corners. It's generally a good idea to add a third piece on top for added strength. Finally, use HH-66 Vinyl Cement to tack a layer of closed cell foam (CCF) on the side of the MLV facing the trim panel. When the trim panel is reinstalled, the CCF will compress slightly, getting rid of rattles and buzzes in the trim panel itself and between the trim panel and the inner door skin. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ I'll bet you're sorry you asked

so far I'm testing seeing what will fit i haven't cleaned it all up mounted exhaust hangers, wire looms and such.. I have had a lot of mustangs try me just off the sound of my car at the stop lights.. I also had time to install my new 100.4 still tuning on it . put carpet in my trunk put everything back in it.

The rear end had 2:49 gears in it with an open diff... so i put in a posi unit with a set of 3:42 gears... adjustable upper control arms so i could set my pinion angle. changed all the bearings and seals and put new stronger diff cover. Took the rims off they serve no purpose now... and no 22's or 26's going on this ether.... When i took the old exhaust off had room to install the holly pump took the old mechanical pump off and put on a block off plate..

SO far this year this is what I have done so far since i have been home.... Torker intake, nitrous olds 442 c heads, headman headers 3" collectors, x pipe, flow masters all 3"

yeah i was thinking how does this guys sub hit so hard with just one battery and car off.. well you are probably noob and you turned your bass knob all the way up.. didnt ya NOOB?