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you're and your

You'll blow a Fi sub just like your T1 if you treat it the same way.

Some WRC tuning porn; I'm sure Adrian will love this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_GoM553jDk

Is that amplifier 5th channel stable to 2 ohms? Another choice not to forget is the SSA DCON. Sounds like your going for a more subtle accurate style system with the sealed enclosure. I would lean more towards the X or DCON.

Per Vance Dickason in The Loudspeaker Design Cookbook, the following are measured parameters for a 6.5" Peerless woofer; Pre-Break In (i.e. out of the box) Fs: 49.9hz Qms: 2.11 Qes: 0.44 Qts: 0.37 Vas: 16.8L Post-Break In (12hrs @ 25hz, unspecified power) Fs: 44.5hz Qms: 1.97 Qes: 0.39 Qts: 0.33 Vas: 21.6L However, enclosure requirements/performance will be nearly identical since the Fs/Qts ratio stays virtually the same even though there's a decent % variance in some of the parameters. On that point, published T/S parameters are either taken from a single driver or an average from a sample batch. The actual T/S parameters for two different drivers from the same product line can vary by as much as 10% or more (I believe most manufacturers consider a variation of 10% to be within tolerance), some have a significant difference in T/S parameters if QC is poor. So really, the difference in pre- and post-break in T/S aren't any greater than one might experience between two drivers as a result of production variances. Is "break in" a myth? No, not really. As indicated, you can clearly and easily show a measurable difference in parameters. Is there going to be a readily apparent audible difference? With your typical driver....probably not. The resultant changes in response are going to be virtually inaudible. On a high powered SPL sub with a ridiculously stiff suspension routinely driven to it's mechanical limits, results may be a little different. The variance would probably be enough for a meter to pick up (tenths of a decibel), so it may matter in that particular arena. Do you need to ascribe a particular time period for "break-in"? No. Just plug it in and play it like you normally would. If you really want to break in your driver, playing it at a low level for some arbitrary time period is counterproductive. The best way to effectively break in a driver is to play it free air at a high excursion level for a couple hours. It will be sufficiently "broken in" after that.

Port, Double baffle, flush mount, and bracing all in! Finished, boxed and shipped tomorrow!! Andrew

All done, boxed and shipped tomorrow! Pics were taken before we dusted it off hehe Andrew

The new Fi X is out which is very cheap. anyways Fi > RE

Right the first time isn't going to happen. There is no rule of thumb that will work. Generically speaking you want to bandpass your mid with a HP that allows it to play as low as possible for the listening levels and music you listen to. If it ever sounds stressed you need to raise it. The LP on the mid is a bit trickier as underlap, overlap, or the same cross point can all work depending on your installation locations and personal preferences. Typically as a rule of thumb you want to figure out how low your tweeter can play the same as with the mid, but you have to be much more careful as it is very easy to blow the tweeter. Once you have those ranges then you have to figure out when/where they mix the best. This could take many, many hours. Time alignment generically is used to compensate for path length differences. How to use it will depend on where your speakers are mounted, but usually you take the furthest away and adjust the rest to match.