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You're going to turn that PR inside out before you break the sub. The rule of thumb is double the cone area of what you originally have. Just a FYI. If you ask..we can probably make you some PR's that would work..and not fall apart

To tune the PR you attach weight to the moving assembly and the spider could end up supporting 2-3 lbs of weight. What happens when you hit a bump and you have 2lbs of metal washers attached to the spider ?

Good idea to use a PR to save space. And the box won't be sealed, it will still be a ported box, you are just replacing the port with the radiator. The main problem I see is forces in a car. Having a PR "fire" horizontal, you will have a lot of weight hanging off it's suspension. Hit a bump or a pothole and you can damage the PR. If it sits vertical you will get droop because of the weight.

Post in the fi audio section and you will get help http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/forum/66-general-fi/

Sean seems far more familiar with those drivers than myself. 400hz has a wavelength of 33.75", so beaming shouldn't be an issue over that bandwidth. If I haven't posted it already, you can figure out the inductive lowpass effects with the formula; f = Re/(2*Pi*Le) *Le in Henries (it's listed in T/S as millhenries, so you'll have to convert it before working the formula) Ideally this would be 1 octave above your intended crossover frequency. The other thing I would look at is a frequency response and impedance graph. A large peak in the response and a ripple in the impedance curve can indicate cone break-up at that frequency, which would want to be avoided. Other than that......as long as it plays high enough for your needs, it should play lower than your needs since low frequency performance will be improved over a 10", so you should be good to go. And really, the increased cone area will reduce the required excursion for a given output level, so distortion at various listening levels should be lower with the 12" than a 10"

That 12 can play more than high enough to blend, but will beam easier. What frequencies do you need it to play to?

Thing I am doing on my midbass testing is putting my 6.5" Peerless in and mounting to the original inside baffle and letting them play full range to find all my irritating rattles, resonances and then applying dampening as I find issues. Just like on an enclosure, rigidity is the key and the stouter the panel/pod the more midbass a person will have.

going in a seat similar to this

Or the JBL MS8

H701 will solve your woes, although with the 9886 you'll really need the controller too.

I am just not a fan of expecting such a small speaker to provide such a dynamic range. I guess it is more a personal preference, but I would never do it. Sure, tuning will be much easier, but the reality of the situation is that a 3 way will work better. As the small driver is pulling such a high workload from the lower register, reaching a fairly high excursion and realizing a rise in Qts where Bl is becoming markedly more parabolic, you are demanding the driver to perform such delicacies as the harmonics or decay from a cymbal crash... it is just not a recipe for good sound quality. I personally feel with all the work J is putting into it, he will be able to get it tuned right. It isn't like so many other active installs I see where people just toss drivers in and set their crossovers and call it active... he is working on manipulating the speakers through enclosure design and placement. I think he can get it done.