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Phil Collins - In The Air Tonight (bass test version).mp3 - 4shared.com - online file sharing and storage - download

Vibration damper (like Dynamat) inside the box will not help at all, at least not enough to be worth doing. The resonant frequency of the box should be well above the frequencies produced by the sub(s) inside. What you are feeling is either distortion from the pressure changes in the box, in which case bracing is what you need, or resonance from overtones or other speakers in the vehicle. I'd be very surprise if it is a problem if the vibration or movement is barely detectable.

vibration is only bad if you can hear it. like your license plate, trunk lid, change in your ashtray, or other annoyances. feeling vibrations on the the box is perfectly fine. as long as you have it secured so it doesnt move around youll be fine. now the panels of the box flexing can be detrimental. i dont think that box is big enough to have to worry about massive flex but you could brace it if it helps you sleep at night. Panel flex = peakiness in response first and foremost. It's not good.

The Icon is sealed, and sounds great, more then loud enough with only ~500w. I love the Leviathan, it has some quirks like a protection circuit where if you leave it to loud when you turn off the vehicle and then turn it back on it will go into protect. At times I think my protection circuit on it has been a little touchy but thats not a big deal. I also love the fact that I can run everything off of one amp.

One more for you guys since I see you like surprise bass. Sadly it is not the best quality. But perfect for a demo, scaring someone who has not heard your system yet. 4 shared Good vibrations The song is in a rar because 4shared detects it like an illegal copy which it isn't since the song is some kind of a remix. surprise buttsex at 2:55 > 33hz

Impressions... I will admit I was skeptical on how big of an impact deadening the doors would do, fearing I wouldn't notice a difference. I was leery the whole time I was doing the install. First impressions when one door was done, there was a noticeable difference in the way the door sounded when it was shut. It was a nice thud instead of the other door which was a higher pitched thud, believe me I walked back and forth opening and closing each door and listening several times. Driving down the road when it was all done was satisfying ( I live on a dirt road), the road noise was lowered by a lot. Then I went to an empty parking lot and listened to the stereo for about an hour and a half making little changes in the processing, eq, etc. Rolling up and down windows walking around the car, being more then pleased. Then went on a drive raising and lowering the volume noticing the differences in how loud a car passed , it is quite a difference quieter with the windows down and almost non existent with the windows up( all with the stereo turned all the way down). It appears that the sound from the stereo is cleaner also, which I would attribute to not having to fight the background road noise. So in short I am very pleased with the way it turned out and with the customer service from Sound Deadener Showdown. http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi

Not half of the voltage. That is incorrect. You would multiple your "passband" voltage by .707, and that would give you the target voltage for the crossover, or the -3db point of the signal. We can verify this with Ohms Law, which I'll show down below. You could just start with an 80hz tone and leave the crossover off (assuming it has an "off" switch or the range is adjustable enough to leave the initial signal unaffected). But you wouldn't have a target voltage of 10V for the -3db point. The target voltage for the -3db point, based on a 20V starting voltage, would be 14.14V. We can verify this back with Ohms Law. For example purposes, we'll pretend load (speaker) is 4ohm. 20V^2/4ohm = 100w 14.14V^2/4ohm = 49.9w (we'll just round this up to an even 50) 10*log(100/50) = 3db So, we just verified the difference in voltage is 3db The reason the target voltage for the -3db point of the signal is .707 and not half is because the decibel difference for voltage is a 20*log function and not a 10*log function like power output differences are. 20*log(1/.707) = 3db Half voltage would instead be -6db.

Fundamentally there is still one really major problem. If you have a 15" sub with a ton of powering playing 60Hz and want an 8" midbass to "keep up" with it at 61Hz you are going to have to find a midbass that embarasses that sub. Good luck with that. Yes I know that the filters are far from brick wall, that was just to clarify the ridiculousness of the request. Figure out the cone area and excursion difference and the acoustic potential of the 15 will KILL anything in that range. If the OP truly would describe his GOALS as outlined in the little notes in my sig we would come to a different conclusion I am sure. I can surely make an educated guess on the best solution for him, but he makes more stupid threads without any input that we need on his part so I don't feel like it. I'll give you a MAJOR FUCKING hint though. Rethink your subs crossover point. For your goals they make no sense. On top of that, determining crossovers and slopes before you get the drivers is a major fail. They will sound like ass with the guess settings and really need to be "tuned" in place. No one can ever tell you ahead of time what they "should" be.

lol at thread

Watch Cesar Milan. The dog Whisperer.

I didnt say you were beating his ass i said i suggested a way to use positive gestures instead of beating his ass (not that you were). im not an advocate for dogs or anything i was just trying to help.