Leaderboard

Thanks everyone! And the female is Nicole. A friend of mine who is my personal model when ever I feel like testing new lighting setups or wanna try shot idea's. Not my old lady, but I have been telling her for the last year we are gonna get married and she should just accept it and break up with her d-bag boyfriend! lol One of the coolest chicks I know. She is also the only female I know that gets into my car and wants the volume turned up! Most bitch and say turn it down it hurts my ears... lol So for some more eye candy... 1. 2. A shot from the beginning of the summer when I was seeing how well I could balance studio strobe with the sun in frame... not easy to over power the sun!

And you HP them at 40Hz per your other thread. Those must be some seriously monster midbasses. Huh? By that do you mean they are at the minimum or the maximum or not? Also curious how you measured "200w" without setting your gains. Do you actually know anything about your own install other than what drivers and amps you have? So far every time you post it sure seems that you are just regurgitating marketing garbage about something you have very little understanding about. Now why is this on topic? Sorry to NCSU, but I really wanted to make sure that either when he read his thread or anyone else searched and read this that they realized that your recommendations are not even in the ballpark. Your drivers WILL not take 200w at 40Hz. Send me one, I'd be glad to measure at what power you will be mechanically running out of excursion and guarantee it will be significantly lower than 200w. Don't expect it to be working when it returns. On the same note, your front stage isn't loud. If you truly think it is you really don't understand what loud is. You think its loud because you've compared to other things that aren't loud. Those drivers will NOT help the OP. NCSU you are stuck in a hard spot. Fitting the horns under your dash will indeed give you what you look for, but will require some modifications to make them fit. I'd seriously contemplate those mods and see if you can find a work around. Other formats of horns aren't going to achieve your other goal of not ripping your head off. Small format and horn is just not a good idea. There is no real commercial application for them so they just haven't been developed and engineering wise it wouldn't be trivial. Look at your car again and do it with a measuring tape. See if you can make them fit. If not, we will have to contemplate a different path.

Randal, do you ever answer a question. I asked a very simple, yes or no question.

By have do you mean you use 400w? And yes I already know the answer which makes your recommendation even worse.

I asked him about doing some horns, but we haven't heard since. Until he responds it isn't worth thinking about tweets. Needs to determine if horns are a feasible solution, but I am not sure what the budget had to cover so can't say. Then need to determine mounting location limitations, then processing, then drivers/amps.

? srlsy 8w rms and only 90dB is not going to give the OP the output he is looking for. Personally I've never heard a TB tweet I love either.

The Exclusive is a great driver, but it isn't a midbass fiend. I've seen a bunch of 2 ways with the SLS as the midbass, they just require a full ranger for the rest of the top.

You are dwelling on the wrong bit of information AGAIN. He asked for input on what would fit his needs and yes he did reference kick panels, but when you read further you'll see he referenced doors and is generally open to good suggestions which yours was not as it didn't address his needs. Sure you have kicks and he said kicks, but how does that help him, I'll make it easy and cut out what wasn't his request so you can read it better this time. Active 2 wsy, SPL route, reference levels, low distortion, rockin' midbass, mellow tweets, with a budget of $500. You told him to copy you which will be not loud enough, missing midbass, and made no reference of how the tweeters you have fill his needs nor can we be sure they meet the budget. And you bypassed the active altogether, although perhaps you don't know what that means.

Yes, majorly wrong. Showing off is for junior high or elementary school. Most of us are in the hobby to have the best sounding system that we can. Impious didn't "explain" your system. In fact, if you understood it he pointed out what you should be concerned about and only touched on the surface. Many more things we could help you with. As to your recommendation to the OP, you didn't listen. He wants loud, you didn't offer that and nowhere near. You completely missed out on his actual question.

Perfect compared to some other idiot. Really get off your high horse, equipment doesn't buy you anything and you have shown over and over again that you don't comprehend what is necessary. If you have to tout your "experience" to give your comments merit, then obviously your comments have no merit on their own. Notice you don't see other people on here citing why they are the cats meow. There is a reason for that. Stop.

Most people get into car audio for 2 main reasons 1. sound good and show off. 2. BE THE BEST IN THE PARKING LOT !!! Am I wrong? Impious explained my setup in detail better than I ever could. He understands how a Competitor thinks. You either be the best on the street / competition or you go home. Winning at the largest audio comptition in the united states should be enough creditals for anyone. (except you I guess) NCSU ECE I apologise for the jump on your thread. You asked about kick pannels and tweets at the start and I just wanted to share my experience. I hope you get things worked out.

my 6 1/2s and tweets have about 400 watts on them (extremely modified amplifier). I also have 5 batteries and a 200 amp alt. I wish you could hear my truck. It gets very loud. I run it in street beat classes to. ultimate autosound did a tahoe with 4 rd audio tweets in each a pillars, 6 1/2 in the kicks, 2 6 1/2 in the doors on a 4 channel rd audioamp. It was very loud. 4 18s in the rear. sorry bout that.

I typed it wrong sq_mgb, thanks.

Model RMS Power @ 4 Ohms Stereo 12.5 volts THD 20-20KHZ Mono Rating 4 Ohms ** Maximum / Peak Power Damping Factor 4/2Ohm Channel Separation Slew Rate Volts/mSec Signal To Noise Ratio Required Fuse 2 Ohm St 4 Ohm Mono Capable Internally Bridgeable Frequency Response 2.2HV 12.5W x2 RMS 0.004% 600 Watts 1500 Watts 300/150 >72 dB >95 dB 40 Amps Yes Yes 5Hz-200kHz ** Mono Rating @ 4 Ohms is tested with the power supply taps moved to 2 Ohms setting where applicable. This the link from Linear power. just add a few mods to it and see what you come up with.

yes sir. right at about 200w per channel.

I do not use amp gains if thats what your asking.