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You do understand that we rate it at 2000 watts rms right?

I found some great bassy music. Check out some Bassnectar. A customer at work got me turned onto this stuff. Its dubstep which is club music but it bumps.

Dedication and craftsmanship! Enjoy .... 21 Maelstrom Curved Box Build - AVS Forum

So for those of you that may not of seen the other post, this is whats going in there 2 sa 12's in a box tuned to 28-29hz before car peak 1 jbl baby crown amp the 1200 one 1 autotek 4 channel for mids and highs 2 mb quart 6.5 component sets 1 for back and 1 for front for mids and highs 1 pioneer avh-5700 50 feet of 1/0 for power extra battery Here is me getting started

Getting started. Andrew

Got my SSD in today. All I can say is WOW. short video playing late night tip

This is yet another build for my good friend. Seems he has to buy a new truck every year or so... What's Going in: 2 Massive Audio DB8000 Amps 8000w @ 1 ohm strapped (the two amps will be strapped and running 1.33ohm) 1 Massive Audio HD1600.4 200w x 4 @ 2 ohm 1 Soundstream Ref Comp set 6.5" (something used I had sitting around that he liked) 3 Rival Mobile Electronics A12.22 4" VC D2 ohm 2000w RMS 2 Shruiken BT120's JVC Deck--nothing fancy 1/0 everywhere... big 3 ect... all tsunami cables **not sure on the rear speakers yet... they're not all that important... he's got some old soundstream 6x9's that we'll probably stuff in there..

Is the trunk sealed? If so don't deaden the trunk lid, if not get the trunk lid.

All install dependent! Just about all quality built drivers are able to get loud, just that some are built to get loud! I would suggest doing some more research and try and listen to as many systems as you can to get an idea of what you may or may not want.

As much cone area as you can fit, but it's impossible to suggest somehting that will work when we absolutely NOTHING about your installation.

really pumped how it tured out...just over 3cubes picked up some damp. pro b stock from second skin, i know this stuff is legit so i picked some up for my next car. Powa! feels good running only a hc600 compared to a 2400 using 4ga knu for the whole car. Should work out nice

I wouldn't wire an EQ's power to a relay. Wire that straight to the battery (with a fuse). The turn-on for the EQ can be on a relay, though, and I'd recommend hooking up the amps remote to that relay also.

You need one of these: That is all.

heres the spray I used.. Bolt terminals Thought i would do alittle touch up of black textured around the corners..

just bought a new deck yesterday got rid of the old sony installed the new deck and made a world of difference the sound quality of the new deck is amazing the specs for the new deck are: CD Player KD-A815 MP3/WMA Compatible with ID3 Tag/WMA Tag Yes CD-R/RW Compatible Yes CD Text Yes Random/Repeat Play Yes Frequency Response 5 - 20,000Hz Dynamic Range 96dB Signal-to-Noise Ratio 102dB Channel Separation More than 85dB Wow & Flutter Less than measurable limit Bluetooth Conrol KD-A815 Bluetooth Control [2] Yes (USB Bluetooth Adapter included) Hands Free Call Yes Audio Streaming & Control Yes Text Message Display Yes (Receipt notification only) Phone Book Transfer Manual (400 Max.) Mic Unit Yes iPod/iPhone Control KD-A815 iPod Control Yes (USB) iPhone Control Yes (USB) Play / Pause / Skip / Search Yes Rndom/Repeat Play Yes Text Yes Battery Charge Yes (USB) 2-Way Control for iPod/iPhone (Headunit/iPod or iPhone Mode) [3] Yes (USB) USB KD-A815 Position Front/Rear MP3/WMA Compatible with ID3 Tag/WMA Tag Yes AAC/WAV Compatible [1] Yes (WAV only) Random/Repeat Play Yes iPod/iPhone Playback Yes Tuner KD-A815 HD Radio Ready (KT-HD300) SAT Radio Ready Yes Tuner Type HS-IVi Yes Preset Stations 6 AM + 18 FM Station Name Registration Yes SSM (for FM) Yes Seek (Up/Down) Yes Stereo/Mono Switch (for FM) Yes European Switchable Tuner Yes FM Frequency Range 87.5 - 107.9MHz Usable Sensitivity 9.3dBf (0.8uV/75 ohms) 50dB Quieting Sensitivity 16.3dBf (1.8uV/75 ohms) Stereo Separation 40dB AM Frequency Range 530 - 1,710kHz Sensitivity 20uV Selectivity 40dB Amplifier KD-A815 Maximum Power Output 50W x 4 Continuous Power Output (RMS) (CEA-2006 Compliant) 20W RMS x 4 CH at 4 ohms and no more than 1.0% THD + N MOS-FET Amplifier Yes Audio DAC TI/Burr-Brown 24-bit DAC Yes Source-Specific Volume Control Yes Volume Attenuator Yes Loudness Control Yes (3 patterns) Balance/Fader Control Yes EQ 3-Band Parametric iEQ Yes LPF/HPF Cross Over Yes HPF Yes Max. Amp Gain Switcher Yes Amp Defeat Switch Yes Front AUX Input Yes Line Output Terminals (Pair) 3 Pairs (Gold-Pated, Front + Rear + Subwoofer) Subwoofer Output with Level/Frequency Control Yes (Gold-Plated) Load Impedance 4 ohms (4 - 8 ohms allowable) Line Output Level 5.0V Line Output Impedance 1 kohms Subwoofer Output Level 5.0V Display KD-A815 Display Type Full Dot LCD Yes Level Meter Yes Contrast Control Yes Switchable Dimmer Yes General KD-A815 Detachable Control Panel with Carrying Case Yes Steering Remote Control Ready Yes Wireless Remote Control Type Oval-Shaped Wireless Remote Control Yes Beep Tone Support Yes (From Speakers) COMPU PLAY Yes Rotary Encoder Yes Power-Off Mode Eject Yes Dimensions (W x H x D) Installation Size 7-3/16'' x 2-1/16'' x 6-5/16'' (182 x 52 x 160mm) Panel Size 7-7/16'' x 2-5/16'' x 1/4'' (188 x 58 x 5.6mm) Detachable Face Plate Size 6-3/4'' x 1-7/8'' x 3/4'' (170 x 46 x 18.8mm) also forgot to mention picked it up for 149.00 can$

i applied a couple layers of speckled gray spray and i like the look of it. I am sick of using black with white specks so i thought i would change it up a bit. Plus i thought it would look nice with a giant ass black aeroport coming out of the side. Paint still has to dry for another hour and then ill be putting in the terminals, predrill the screws in for the BL. Almost completed in a single day

waiting for glue to dry, then i will be adding fiberglass

6: Aero 18" long. 3.1cuft NET @33hz Pay close attention- The baffle, back and LEFT side are dual layered.

and here are subs in the box and a picture if you can tell of them playing now I am testing box firing options, have turned box where subs and port are up, and pushed as far back as possible then I will push it up closer and test it for a bit up against the seat then subs and port forward test then I will go from there about double face, the extra bracing, and ect...

ok here is a few more, showing the amp and everything else going it here is mids and high amp that was in and then pulled out thinking it was bad, pissed about radio acting up still here are the subs ooo btw here is the wire, look how flexible it was

Here are some more pics I am going to test enclosure before finishing it, it's still going to get 2-3 steel threaded rods thru it, along with double faced, and then being painted or what not..

Just waiting for shiz to finalize my enclosure and then it starts..

the Start of the box will work on more if it tonight, this is where I am at though.. plan on doing more pics, and what not

Here is some more

birch yay

Here's a few pictures for ya whores out their DC alt on the way, should have it in a week or so! I'll have a couple videos tomorrow woot!

I haven't used it yet but will soon. The package claims that is ridged, sandable, paintable and expands 10x. The package says its for sealing off internal body cavitys to reduce noise and the make them more structurly solid. recommened for car box sections such as a-pillars. Won't deform the panel. The name on the package is IES INTER-FOAM 10. Sorry to clog the build but thought you might be interested. No worries. It's good info. I've never seen the foam like that. I've used that style of set up for panel bond adhesive though. That will be much easier for doing smaller areas that are hard to pour foam into. I use the stuff that comes in bulk containers that you mix A with B and then have about 30 seconds to get it poured before it starts expanding. Update.. There is a little more to do but here is a peek at it. The back seat set in place. Now lets see if I remember how to post a video. Let me know if they aren't working. Front windows down and flexing. did I say it plays low? 15hz test tone putting them to work. Finally found a good use for my daughters long hair :cheesy: Now all the gear gets pulled back out and I get busy with the sound deadener.

Bolted the baffle in a sealed it up. Used a piece of flat bar to sandwich the board between it and the angle. I used stover nuts on everything to keep them from backing off. Then I foam filled the dead space between the rear deck and the baffle board. I did this to both seal and prevent rattles. I'll trim it all once it sets up and then put a coat of black paint on it. Started wiring up the batteries. So close now to hearing this thing.

The madness is about to begin.....again, well not to much. Remember i am not looking for a all out SPL setup, just a daily driver that is light on weight and still bangs...a solid 12 BL in a 2.0 cu ft enclosure~35Hz equipment: 12 BL dual 1 Alpine MRP M1000 (yes i know, no subsonic filter blah....it was stuffed away in my closet so i wanna give it some use) Knu Konceptz 4awg Kolossus cable Sundown 100.4 (JL 6.5s, tweets) Still need another set of components for the rear. Also my enclosure is temporary due to the fact i dont know if my new car rear seats fold down......if they dont i know there is a armrest that connects to trunk. Maybe aeroport straight forward. Previous setup (BTL 18m, sundown 3k..etc) 12 BL brushed alum feels good to go back to a 12.... tomorrow it will be tested out in my brother car...going against a W7 Found a type of car i am interested in but we will keep that a secret for now

It's the factory color for the exterior of the car and it's a very classy color that looks great in the sun. You spy correctly the 9" was going to be for this car but I'm building a fab 9 housing instead thats why the 3rd member is pulled. With 19 batteries in the trunk plus sounds and pumps I need the strongest axle and housing I can fit under this thing. Ya, I'll have to get some outdoor pics when the sun is out. Here is a little sneek peek of them partially installed. Started getting the doors back together and blacked out the baffle board. The flash makes the color look lighter than it is. Now to get my game plan together for all the foam filling and sealing of the trunk and cabin. As always thanks for all the positive comments. I hope this build has motivated others to put in some work.

I finally got everything painted today. Base coat Clear coat. My "spray booth" ventilation is a little weak.

well here are the pics my home music system for now. thats all i got for now

Thanks guys. I always push myself to do the best job possible. Don't forget filler and paint and... seriuosly though I try to tackle everything myself, it's the only way to get quality work these days. Too many people out there just slap shit together and take peoples hard earned money without truely earning it. I'm not afraid of failing thats why I can do what I do. Enough about me. Back to the build... Made some panels for the rear doors just to make sure they match the finish on the front doors. Then primered them and gave all the other parts a few more coats after blocking them flat. Got the head unit all wired and ran the rca, speaker, and power wires to the trunk. rca's ran down the tunnel. Speaker wires down the driver side rocker. 2 runs of 0/1 down the passenger rocker. I tried to keep al the wires as far apart as possible and any wires that had to cross were done at a 90 degree angle. I feel like I'm getting somewhere finally.

the way it is as of yesterday... baffel mounted... the top board is just sitting there... that's not where it belongs **this thing is now too bulky/heavy to move on my own

I sealed the mdf with fiberglass resin a couple days ago and just about have it all sanded and ready for primer. I'm going to paint everything to match the body color this time. The fabric was already fading from the sun so I'm not going that route again. sealed sanded The reason I did the resin was to prevent the MDF from soaking up the paint materials. It's another new thing I'm trying so I report how well it works.

Probably the last set of pics on the rack, since everything else that needs work is just wiring. Put the sub in though and ghetto-rigged it to my amps... now just waiting for the 3sixty replacement so I can actually have decent crossover options. I think I've decided to stick with the grill for now, actually. Hard to tell in the pics, but it matches the interior fabric of my seats and does a decent job of covering the chrome bling that is JBL's dustcap. Looks better in person too.

clamping on the 1" worth of spacer to bring the subs back. test fitting the parts actually gluing the port/battery tray down underside.... ignore the scribbles... baffle... glass drying...

here's some early pics of the box... it's further along now I just need to upload the other pics... these are off my cell

Ugh, I knew things were going too smoothly! My 3sixty.2 doesn't power up. Will have to exchange it now, which means it may be a few more weeks before everything is finalized. Still, everything is installed regardless. And the amps power up, which is a small mercy I suppose. I also threw some cloth over an MDF grill frame, just to see how it'd turn out... not sure yet whether I'll keep it in the end or just leave the sub uncovered. Decisions. The wiring is a mess... not sure it's gonna get any better either, lol. Limited space ftw.

Thanks. I spent most the day working on it. Attached the end caps and added some 2x4 pieces to reinforce the joints. I also added some trim pieces for looks on the rear brace. Started doing some of the filling and smoothing but still have a lot of sanding to do. Another test fit. I need to do a couple of slots for the wiring but it fits real good other than that.

I sectioned the front baffle and layed it back 5" at the top. Added some gussets and bracing. Mounted the subs to check clearance. Shit is close. Going to see if I can get the rest of the woodwork done on it tomorrow.

Well this weekend sucked. After doing some more mock up of the hydraulics I discovered the rear cylinders were going to hit the outside subs. So out came the baffle board and into the trash it went. The new layout. I still need to cut the holes for these subs. Put the rack back in the trunk and mocked up the amps to check for clearance on the subs. I don't feel like going for a 3rd attempt on this. It sucks that I had to rework this but at least I've come up with a design that will be easier to install and get sealed up when it's done.

I've started putting the pieces together now. I've done about as much as I can until my knukonceptz order comes in and I can mock-install all my wiring to determine where everything needs to be mounted. After that I can seal, paint, and carpet everything together. Just a few quick updates until then: The bottom piece. Equipment gets mounted on the right; the left is part of the sub airspace. The horizontal wooden bar nearer the top of the image is bolted to the chassis and will allow me to drill through the false floor and into a secure mounting point. The false floor. The righthand side leaves a removable window to access the equipment mounted below. And yes, miraculously enough, that is enough space for two amps, a processor, and my distribution blocks. The subwoofer box. Uses the basement airspace and a little above the floor. 1.7ft.^3 in total, after accounting for the W12GTi. These pieces are not yet attached. Equipment window closed. I'll install a rope or something on the underside that will allow this piece to be pulled up at will. The grill frame. I'm waiting on some grill guides from PE, after which time it will be primed/painted and covered in grill cloth. The whole thing. It won't be completely assembled until it's ready to be installed permanently. If the mailman cooperates, that might be as early as this weekend.

OMG, it's Christmas morning over here! Thanks, State Farm! I have no need for the Focals or PPI, but I appreciate it all the same. And this W12GTi is freaking massive!

Made a little progress over the past few days. Hard to make anything too final without my equipment yet. Bolted a brace to the chassis so I can screw down my floorboard and make removal of the entire piece a pain in the ass. Might not discourage any thievery/vandalism, but it makes me feel better. Clamping some pieces on the bottom. The area on the right is where my amps will be installed. I'm having trouble believing they're as small as the manual claims, but we'll know soon enough... Made my circles on the left, and cut out a piece of the floorboard on the right. I'm hoping to install a hinge and leave that section of the floor able to be pulled open for easy access to the amps/processor directly beneath. I'm expecting my equipment to arrive tomorrow, so more exciting pics should be on the horizon.

Thanks. This build is definetly getting complex. There is going to be a total of 19 batteries (3 for audio and 16 for the hydraulics) ,4 hydraulic pumps, 2 amps, 4 12" subs, and enough cable and hoses to power a small village. It will be a very tight fit but will be super clean and organized. I almost finished the amp rack. Just need to modify a couple things but it's close. I finished welding the tray to the subframe then moved onto the hold down. Just showing off here. Welded a 1/2" stover nut onto the tie down bracket which I failed to take pics of. Hold down/amp rack top side Under side. Bolted on. I still need to drill and tap the frame for bolting the amps down but here is the layout.

Yes they can. Thanks. Finally got the trim piece done. I'm pleased with it now it looks like it belongs there. Now I need to get the amp locations sorted out.