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outhopu
Members15Points329Posts -
bassnatzii
Members9Points32Posts -
Mac N Cheese
SSA Regular8Points4,186Posts -
rushnrun
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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/09/2010 in all areas
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powerbass XTA-4000d
2 points
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For all you bassheads out there
1 pointI found some great bassy music. Check out some Bassnectar. A customer at work got me turned onto this stuff. Its dubstep which is club music but it bumps.1 point
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So you think you can build a home subwoofer
Dedication and craftsmanship! Enjoy .... 21 Maelstrom Curved Box Build - AVS Forum1 point
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Here we go, 97 Dodge Grand Caravan build, with keepin room for family
So for those of you that may not of seen the other post, this is whats going in there 2 sa 12's in a box tuned to 28-29hz before car peak 1 jbl baby crown amp the 1200 one 1 autotek 4 channel for mids and highs 2 mb quart 6.5 component sets 1 for back and 1 for front for mids and highs 1 pioneer avh-5700 50 feet of 1/0 for power extra battery Here is me getting started1 point
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Enclosure Build for vwfamily (One 12 Inch SSA Dcon)
1 point
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96 Yukon Full Install 3 12's 8000w ect...
This is yet another build for my good friend. Seems he has to buy a new truck every year or so... What's Going in: 2 Massive Audio DB8000 Amps 8000w @ 1 ohm strapped (the two amps will be strapped and running 1.33ohm) 1 Massive Audio HD1600.4 200w x 4 @ 2 ohm 1 Soundstream Ref Comp set 6.5" (something used I had sitting around that he liked) 3 Rival Mobile Electronics A12.22 4" VC D2 ohm 2000w RMS 2 Shruiken BT120's JVC Deck--nothing fancy 1/0 everywhere... big 3 ect... all tsunami cables **not sure on the rear speakers yet... they're not all that important... he's got some old soundstream 6x9's that we'll probably stuff in there..1 point
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93 Fleetwood Caddy build.
1 pointThanks. I'm glad I gave the IB set up a shot. To be honest I had so many people talking crap about how it would have weak output or that I should just build a box...that it made it hard to commit to going IB. Well after getting this fired up I realize that very few people knew what the hell they where talking about. I have to believe the Fi subs and there power handling played a big part in the performance. It probably helped that I put a lot of thought and time into getting the trunk and cabin sealed from each other. Did you ever get your IB set up dialed in? I did get a bit more done also. I bored a hole in the interior to start filling the front of the 1/4 panels with foam. 1 quart of mixed foam filled from the rocker to the rear deck solid. It can make a mess if you don't get all the openings taped off. This is the area inside the trunk above the wheel tub. The foam really expands and fills a lot of space with a small amount of foam mix. Decided to glass and paint the dash to match the rear deck now. Made a 1/8" press board panel for a air bag delete. Glued it in and filled the top with foam. I just used masking tape to make a border around the area that needed filling. Trimmed, sanded, and ready for glass.1 point
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Sound Deadening
1 pointIs the trunk sealed? If so don't deaden the trunk lid, if not get the trunk lid.1 point
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Level 4 vs 3512
1 pointAll install dependent! Just about all quality built drivers are able to get loud, just that some are built to get loud! I would suggest doing some more research and try and listen to as many systems as you can to get an idea of what you may or may not want.1 point
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Mac N Cheese's build log
1 pointreally pumped how it tured out...just over 3cubes picked up some damp. pro b stock from second skin, i know this stuff is legit so i picked some up for my next car. Powa! feels good running only a hc600 compared to a 2400 using 4ga knu for the whole car. Should work out nice1 point
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18" subaru outback build
1 pointalright here are some pics. fist will be some older pics from last week i wasnt able to upload. here is the dual 2awg ground. the hole through the floor. voltage readout w/o the big 3 and here are some pics i just took a couple minutes ago 23 ft of 1/0 wire and here is a size comparison between the old wire i was runing(lol) and the new stuff and i gots 4 12's in my room!1 point
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jay-cee's Build Log
1 point
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Does remote line cause speaker thud?
I wouldn't wire an EQ's power to a relay. Wire that straight to the battery (with a fuse). The turn-on for the EQ can be on a relay, though, and I'd recommend hooking up the amps remote to that relay also.1 point
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ShiZZZoN's Build Log
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Mac N Cheese's build log
1 point1 point
- jay-cee's Build Log
1 pointI started spray painting the box, the port will be black and the undercoat on the box will be black. I will either be using black stone or grey stone spray paint for the final coat just havent decided yet, more pictures will come soon. I finished filling the speaker hole with silicone and wood glue to make sure there is a permanent seal. I picked up some screws today to use to mount the subwoofer with, since its raining I will have to take a break on the box for the next couple of days (damn hurricanes ). Sub amp will get here tomorrow and I cant wait Port Box Half-Painted1 point- Mac N Cheese's build log
1 pointheres the spray I used.. Bolt terminals Thought i would do alittle touch up of black textured around the corners..1 point- Mac N Cheese's build log
1 point- Mac N Cheese's build log
1 point6: Aero 18" long. 3.1cuft NET @33hz Pay close attention- The baffle, back and LEFT side are dual layered.1 point- Here we go, 97 Dodge Grand Caravan build, with keepin room for family
and here are subs in the box and a picture if you can tell of them playing now I am testing box firing options, have turned box where subs and port are up, and pushed as far back as possible then I will push it up closer and test it for a bit up against the seat then subs and port forward test then I will go from there about double face, the extra bracing, and ect...1 point- Here we go, 97 Dodge Grand Caravan build, with keepin room for family
ok here is the sub amp1 point- Here we go, 97 Dodge Grand Caravan build, with keepin room for family
ok here is a few more, showing the amp and everything else going it here is mids and high amp that was in and then pulled out thinking it was bad, pissed about radio acting up still here are the subs ooo btw here is the wire, look how flexible it was1 point- Here we go, 97 Dodge Grand Caravan build, with keepin room for family
Here are some more pics I am going to test enclosure before finishing it, it's still going to get 2-3 steel threaded rods thru it, along with double faced, and then being painted or what not..1 point- Mac N Cheese's build log
1 pointJust waiting for shiz to finalize my enclosure and then it starts..1 point- Here we go, 97 Dodge Grand Caravan build, with keepin room for family
the Start of the box will work on more if it tonight, this is where I am at though.. plan on doing more pics, and what not1 point- Here we go, 97 Dodge Grand Caravan build, with keepin room for family
1 point- Here we go, 97 Dodge Grand Caravan build, with keepin room for family
1 point- Here we go, 97 Dodge Grand Caravan build, with keepin room for family
1 point- 1997 Jeep Wrangler
1 pointHere's a few pictures for ya whores out their DC alt on the way, should have it in a week or so! I'll have a couple videos tomorrow woot!1 point- 93 Fleetwood Caddy build.
1 pointI haven't used it yet but will soon. The package claims that is ridged, sandable, paintable and expands 10x. The package says its for sealing off internal body cavitys to reduce noise and the make them more structurly solid. recommened for car box sections such as a-pillars. Won't deform the panel. The name on the package is IES INTER-FOAM 10. Sorry to clog the build but thought you might be interested. No worries. It's good info. I've never seen the foam like that. I've used that style of set up for panel bond adhesive though. That will be much easier for doing smaller areas that are hard to pour foam into. I use the stuff that comes in bulk containers that you mix A with B and then have about 30 seconds to get it poured before it starts expanding. Update.. There is a little more to do but here is a peek at it. The back seat set in place. Now lets see if I remember how to post a video. Let me know if they aren't working. Front windows down and flexing. did I say it plays low? 15hz test tone putting them to work. Finally found a good use for my daughters long hair :cheesy: Now all the gear gets pulled back out and I get busy with the sound deadener.1 point- Mac N Cheese's build log
1 pointThe madness is about to begin.....again, well not to much. Remember i am not looking for a all out SPL setup, just a daily driver that is light on weight and still bangs...a solid 12 BL in a 2.0 cu ft enclosure~35Hz equipment: 12 BL dual 1 Alpine MRP M1000 (yes i know, no subsonic filter blah....it was stuffed away in my closet so i wanna give it some use) Knu Konceptz 4awg Kolossus cable Sundown 100.4 (JL 6.5s, tweets) Still need another set of components for the rear. Also my enclosure is temporary due to the fact i dont know if my new car rear seats fold down......if they dont i know there is a armrest that connects to trunk. Maybe aeroport straight forward. Previous setup (BTL 18m, sundown 3k..etc) 12 BL brushed alum feels good to go back to a 12.... tomorrow it will be tested out in my brother car...going against a W7 Found a type of car i am interested in but we will keep that a secret for now1 point- 93 Fleetwood Caddy build.
1 pointMounted and wired the crossovers and speakers. I added another piece of MDF to the back of the panels to sandwich the door panel to prevent rattles. I set the panels back on for now. I need to go pick up new door clips for a better fit. Finished prepping the baffle and installed T nuts. I glued some felt to the frame work to prevent the wood from making noise. Installed baffle. It still needs to be bolted down and sealed though. It fits nicely. Ran power cable through the board and the other cables under neath. I used my router to do a relief notch to prevent the wires from getting pinched. Finally sorted out the trunk lifts. I just need to pick up a couple more ball stud mounts and it's good to go. Next on the list is to finish the battery wires and seal the baffle, then it will be time for the test run.1 point- 96 Yukon Full Install 3 12's 8000w ect...
1 point- 93 Fleetwood Caddy build.
1 pointIt's the factory color for the exterior of the car and it's a very classy color that looks great in the sun. You spy correctly the 9" was going to be for this car but I'm building a fab 9 housing instead thats why the 3rd member is pulled. With 19 batteries in the trunk plus sounds and pumps I need the strongest axle and housing I can fit under this thing. Ya, I'll have to get some outdoor pics when the sun is out. Here is a little sneek peek of them partially installed. Started getting the doors back together and blacked out the baffle board. The flash makes the color look lighter than it is. Now to get my game plan together for all the foam filling and sealing of the trunk and cabin. As always thanks for all the positive comments. I hope this build has motivated others to put in some work.1 point- 18" subaru outback build
1 pointwell here are the pics my home music system for now. thats all i got for now1 point- 96 Yukon Full Install 3 12's 8000w ect...
Did some glassing Yesterday... Put the top on trimmed up the top today... opened up the port as well--still have finish work to do in there.. I'm holding off until I get the flare glassed--it's an addition to the top of the box. no sense in doing a ton of sanding now when resin is bound to drip down there later.. test fitting the amps... getting an idea of the wiring layout ect...1 point- 93 Fleetwood Caddy build.
1 pointThanks guys. I always push myself to do the best job possible. Don't forget filler and paint and... seriuosly though I try to tackle everything myself, it's the only way to get quality work these days. Too many people out there just slap shit together and take peoples hard earned money without truely earning it. I'm not afraid of failing thats why I can do what I do. Enough about me. Back to the build... Made some panels for the rear doors just to make sure they match the finish on the front doors. Then primered them and gave all the other parts a few more coats after blocking them flat. Got the head unit all wired and ran the rca, speaker, and power wires to the trunk. rca's ran down the tunnel. Speaker wires down the driver side rocker. 2 runs of 0/1 down the passenger rocker. I tried to keep al the wires as far apart as possible and any wires that had to cross were done at a 90 degree angle. I feel like I'm getting somewhere finally.1 point- 93 Fleetwood Caddy build.
1 pointThanks. Well we are now one step closer to seeing it in paint as of today. I'm going to try to get it painted this weekend weather allowing. More progress today. Made the brackets to hold the rear seat. I'll be drilling the holes larger and replacing the screws with bolts and lock nuts. Didn't feel like running to the hardware store today. Also drilled the angle support in the car to give more mounting points for the baffle. I used some spray on bedliner stuff instead of under coating this time. Then I masked it off and sprayed some high build 2K.1 point- 93 Fleetwood Caddy build.
1 pointI sealed the mdf with fiberglass resin a couple days ago and just about have it all sanded and ready for primer. I'm going to paint everything to match the body color this time. The fabric was already fading from the sun so I'm not going that route again. sealed sanded The reason I did the resin was to prevent the MDF from soaking up the paint materials. It's another new thing I'm trying so I report how well it works.1 point- idiot's slimming down build
1 pointProbably the last set of pics on the rack, since everything else that needs work is just wiring. Put the sub in though and ghetto-rigged it to my amps... now just waiting for the 3sixty replacement so I can actually have decent crossover options. I think I've decided to stick with the grill for now, actually. Hard to tell in the pics, but it matches the interior fabric of my seats and does a decent job of covering the chrome bling that is JBL's dustcap. Looks better in person too.1 point- 96 Yukon Full Install 3 12's 8000w ect...
here's some early pics of the box... it's further along now I just need to upload the other pics... these are off my cell1 point- 96 Yukon Full Install 3 12's 8000w ect...
Gutted RCA's and speaker wires all loomed up *note that I hand washed the entire floor... A little deadener... cheap stuff... just what I had sitting around. *all these photos are pre- heatgun/roller... just laid down in the pics Carpet Pad__removed them and washed them up.. they were pretty nasty.. the carpet was all stained up.. some oxyclean and scrubbing took care of the carpet.. cd wiring, soldered and heat shrinked all the wires... *we didn't clean the cargo carpet... yet... going back together apparently I didn't get any pics of the door speaker install.. pretty basic.. mids and highs are in factory location.. I'll get some box build pics posted later today or tomorrow.1 point- 93 Fleetwood Caddy build.
1 pointI sectioned the front baffle and layed it back 5" at the top. Added some gussets and bracing. Mounted the subs to check clearance. Shit is close. Going to see if I can get the rest of the woodwork done on it tomorrow.1 point- 93 Fleetwood Caddy build.
1 pointWell this weekend sucked. After doing some more mock up of the hydraulics I discovered the rear cylinders were going to hit the outside subs. So out came the baffle board and into the trash it went. The new layout. I still need to cut the holes for these subs. Put the rack back in the trunk and mocked up the amps to check for clearance on the subs. I don't feel like going for a 3rd attempt on this. It sucks that I had to rework this but at least I've come up with a design that will be easier to install and get sealed up when it's done.1 point- idiot's slimming down build
1 pointI've started putting the pieces together now. I've done about as much as I can until my knukonceptz order comes in and I can mock-install all my wiring to determine where everything needs to be mounted. After that I can seal, paint, and carpet everything together. Just a few quick updates until then: The bottom piece. Equipment gets mounted on the right; the left is part of the sub airspace. The horizontal wooden bar nearer the top of the image is bolted to the chassis and will allow me to drill through the false floor and into a secure mounting point. The false floor. The righthand side leaves a removable window to access the equipment mounted below. And yes, miraculously enough, that is enough space for two amps, a processor, and my distribution blocks. The subwoofer box. Uses the basement airspace and a little above the floor. 1.7ft.^3 in total, after accounting for the W12GTi. These pieces are not yet attached. Equipment window closed. I'll install a rope or something on the underside that will allow this piece to be pulled up at will. The grill frame. I'm waiting on some grill guides from PE, after which time it will be primed/painted and covered in grill cloth. The whole thing. It won't be completely assembled until it's ready to be installed permanently. If the mailman cooperates, that might be as early as this weekend.1 point- 93 Fleetwood Caddy build.
1 pointThey are just some left over fasteners from another job. I'll trim them down flush once I'm done. I may put a piece of 1/8" aluminum plate under the amps for piece of mind. I don't like the amps being that close to the batteries in case of a freak meltdown. Strength is very important this ride will see lots of abuse when it's done and I don't want shit coming apart. I mounted the breakers today in the same manner as the amps. This will be the main power from the alternator. These will be for the amps.1 point- idiot's slimming down build
1 pointOMG, it's Christmas morning over here! Thanks, State Farm! I have no need for the Focals or PPI, but I appreciate it all the same. And this W12GTi is freaking massive!1 point- idiot's slimming down build
1 pointMade a little progress over the past few days. Hard to make anything too final without my equipment yet. Bolted a brace to the chassis so I can screw down my floorboard and make removal of the entire piece a pain in the ass. Might not discourage any thievery/vandalism, but it makes me feel better. Clamping some pieces on the bottom. The area on the right is where my amps will be installed. I'm having trouble believing they're as small as the manual claims, but we'll know soon enough... Made my circles on the left, and cut out a piece of the floorboard on the right. I'm hoping to install a hinge and leave that section of the floor able to be pulled open for easy access to the amps/processor directly beneath. I'm expecting my equipment to arrive tomorrow, so more exciting pics should be on the horizon.1 point- 93 Fleetwood Caddy build.
1 pointThanks. This build is definetly getting complex. There is going to be a total of 19 batteries (3 for audio and 16 for the hydraulics) ,4 hydraulic pumps, 2 amps, 4 12" subs, and enough cable and hoses to power a small village. It will be a very tight fit but will be super clean and organized. I almost finished the amp rack. Just need to modify a couple things but it's close. I finished welding the tray to the subframe then moved onto the hold down. Just showing off here. Welded a 1/2" stover nut onto the tie down bracket which I failed to take pics of. Hold down/amp rack top side Under side. Bolted on. I still need to drill and tap the frame for bolting the amps down but here is the layout.1 point- 93 Fleetwood Caddy build.
1 pointYes they can. Thanks. Finally got the trim piece done. I'm pleased with it now it looks like it belongs there. Now I need to get the amp locations sorted out.1 point - jay-cee's Build Log