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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/17/2010 in all areas

  1. Theres a local competition going on here and I need your help !!! Please ... Local Radio Station US 96.3 Country, Dr. Pepper, and Local Shop Rick's Pro Trucks ... http://www.us963.com/pages/8049984.php?imageGalleryXRefId=2012064#imgXR My truck "White Lightning" is truck number 17. From US 96.3 website ... US 96.3 Country, Dr Pepper, and Rick's Pro Truck are giving you the chance to win a $5,000 Gift Card from Rick's Pro Truck. Get your friends and family to vote for your ride. Just text the entry number associated with your picture to 601-896-5289. Standard text message and data rates may apply. Voting ends on Friday Sept. 24, 2010. The top ten vote-getters will be invited to the "FINALS" on Saturday Sept. 25, 2010 at Rick's Pro Truck on Lakeland Drive in Flowood. Winner must be present to win on 9/25. Stay tuned to US 96.3 Country for all the details. Please text this number 601-896-5289 and enter the number 17. I would really appreaciate your SSA help on this. Please make my dream come true ... Thank you guys and gals from ... Randal / Cablguy184
  2. There has been a lot of questions about charging batteries lately. Lets look at it this way. A D3100 is around $350. A multimeter or volt meter can be purchased for $40 to how ever much you want to spend on one. IMHO it would be a good investment to get a multimeter/volt meter to make sure the batteries are being charged at the correct voltages. Multimeter/volt meters are just good things to have on hand for any electrical situation. You can usually find some pretty good deals in pawn shops on stuff like this.
  3. http://www.sundownaudio.com/index.php/products/discontinued/nightshade-12.html
  4. Jump to 1:00 for this ^^
  5. 1 point
    If you know it's been asked a million times, you would also no it's never been answered. There's a reason that there is a recommended enclosure sticky in this forum..
  6. Forgot to show this little guy. Ernie built this up for me. To spec, MECA headrest meter stand. Both the SPL-LABS USB and LCD sensor are in the picture.
  7. Shitty-ish iphone camera... kinda fuzzy but still a good picture got mine today around 4:20
  8. Grilles Ya'll know what these are The X-overs are BIG and HEAVY Looks like no protection for tweeters Both Internals These are also very heavy for their size. A ton of mounting options. It's nice they included all the stuff I'm going to need for the front stage instillation Heavy Mo-fo's!
  9. The spider and surround are the only suspension parts I know of in a speaker . The PR will be mounted on its side of course so sagging will not be an issue. I know that PRs work in a car. They have for many years. If someone can please plug in the parameters and LMK a good box volume to start with. The big BUT is that subwoofers have a coil in a magnetic gap with power applied across the coil, which keeps the woofer very linear. Park on a hill or embankment and tell me sagging is not an issue. I had a set of Acoustic Elegance PRs and even leaning them against the wall at a slight angle made the heavy radiator shift.
  10. 1 point
    This is the section to look in: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/forum/110-dc-power-engineering/ The guy to catch up with is: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/user/7750-dc-power-kyle/
  11. ID CTX65CS would be a recommendable set for that budget. Lots of good comments and reviews on them available here and elsewhere. I've heard good things about the new Crescendo components, a less expensive option. With a $200-$300 budget there's quite a few sets that can come into play from companies like CDT, Focal, Morel and possibly Rainbow to name a few. :EDIT: Forgot to mention, there's Bravox, and they're sold right here on SSA too! Give us your listening preferences and more detail on the goal and more recommendations can be made. The thing about components is that what sounds good to me, what sounds good to you, and what sounds good to someone else can be at opposite ends of the spectrum. Best thing to do is try to find what gets recommended at a local shop and give them a listen in person. That can give you at least some idea as whether or not they suit your listening tastes.
  12. Well on a side note.. Look what the big brown truck brought me today.
  13. heres brians van with the carbons in action http://s183.photobucket.com/albums/x24/bkolfo4/?action=view&current=MVI_1760.flv
  14. Ok, finally an update! I mounted the buss bars in the trunk. They are mounted just under the trunk latch between the tail lights. I made up some cables and connected all the rear batteries together to the buss bars. I haven't hooked up the cables from the front yet, I'm going to charge the rear bank overnight then hook them up to the charging system. This is all you can see of the cables coming up from under the trunk carpet. This is without the trunk carpet, you can see a little more of the cables. This is the cover I had made for the spare tirewell, I just covered it with the same carpet I used on the buss bar mounts. Another angle. Now, without the spare tire cover. Here's a good view of the cables and buss bars. I need to find the cleanest way of routing the cables, then zip tie them all up nice and neat. Thanks for watching.
  15. 1 point
    Yes, that was designed by me at RE many years ago. Only one exists and I how it is where it is I don't know. It was a proto made for AA and was a solid design. Specs and parts wise as doable for the intended market but seemed to be at a time when AA was going in a different direction and the sub was scrapped. Realistically not too far off from the current Fi Q, although 6-7 years down the line and things are much more refined than that...
  16. Well I haven't been making much progress on this, but I got a little done. Working 12 hour days sucks, I've been looking for work closer to home so I don't have to drive 3 hours each day. Anyway, I have the mounts for my buss bars made, I just need to get some trunk carpet to cover them with. Here are the buss bars mocked up with the mounts I made. I will then bolt the wood pieces with the bars on them to the rear of the trunk. Then I can just run the wires up from the batteries to these, which will be pretty much just above the batteries.

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