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Ok here we go. This thing is going to be aero ports with two tunings. (4) 6 inch aeros @ 38 Hz for SPL competing and a second tune of (3) 6 inch aeros @ 32 Hz for daily driving. To achieve the daily tune Hove will be able to remove one port and close up the hole with a cap I am going to make. On to the pics!!!! Just getting started tonight... Andrew

Whats in it? I love twins!

I guess for starters I really don't see the point behind any of these charts. Not to devalue stephan's work.....but com'on, it's basic math that anyone capable of successfully operating a computer should be able to figure out on their own in a matter of minutes with a calculator. It would probably take more time to pull up a chart than it would to just figure it out by hand. I mean seriously, would people really not be able to figure out the area of more than one circle, then compare that number to another, on their own without use of a chart? Can someone not look on the companies website for Sd, multiply it by the number of drivers they want to use, and do the same for a different sized driver and then compare the two? If someone can't manage to figure out this little bit of information on their own, then they should probably to revisit elementary school as that is where the basic skill sets required to accomplish this feat are acquired. My main issue with the use of that chart, aside from the laziness required to even need to use that chart, is that it is teaching people wrong information. It may be close enough for government work....but it's still wrong. And if it's teaching novices wrong information, then that will simply confuse them more. They'll be missing out on a basic but fundamental concept. Cone area is a simple driver parameter, that is apparently disturbingly misunderstood. It'll only make things worse if we start them off by teaching them wrong information. When you were in school, your educators hopefully didn't teach you that Pi was 3 since that's "close enough" (there have actually been laws passed throughout the years to attempt to change the "officially recognized" value of Pi in various states and localities....ignorance abound). Second, there can actually be a fairly significant difference in Sd between two same sized drivers. If we assume there's no difference by using incorrect values for determining area, then we are again missing important details. A 12W7 for example has approximately 1db worth of additional cone area than the SSA drivers listed above. That's breaching the realm of audibility, due simply to difference in cone area between two different "twelve inch" drivers that the original chart completely ignores. Last, most people interested in cone area are trying to determine potential output differences. Cone area alone is useless for this purpose. For that, you would need to know Vd not just Sd. In order to obtain an accurate Vd, you would need an accurate Sd and Xmax. Using inaccurate Sd will misrepresent potential output capabilities and differences. Again, making the information useless and teaching novices wrong information. Overall, I can't think of a single reason to suggest or recommend the use of wrong information.

Here you go J-Road Tatts, not to in depth but straight to the point. If someone was on the edge of car audio and didnt know if super tweeters would be too much for you then try the Selenium ST200 and if you want louder then work your way up. After playing them side by side, I find that the Crescendo XST2 Super Tweeters are louder and more raspy while the Selenium ST200s are smoother (if im allowed to use that word to describe a super tweeter). Honestly I love how the ST200 sounds, just ordered another pair why not. Im a dome tweeter guy and these feel like the dome tweeters of pro audio super tweeters/bullet tweeters, hope this helps someone if not

Someone please correct me if I did anything incorrectly, I just used the Sd values from the ssa homepage I'll make another for SA when I got a minute.

If you jumped in sir lance's yukon you wouldnt think twice about getting a sa you would sh*t yourself and get a xcon asap. Till this day i wish i went with a single 15xcon instead of my bl's ((( o well thats next setup.

Yep, they are the tens, with the upgraded suspensions and copper coils. Why didn't you get full dustcaps? The full dust caps aren't available on the ten's yet.

Making some good progress now bro. Looks real good. Sucks to have days like that where everything goes wrong, but there is always tomorrow. I use the same thing to separate spark plug wires, had not thought about using it to keep cables separated too.

How about this baby-maker...

I started today with the amp rack. The feet are welded off, and the angle iron to hold the amps is welded off. I put the box in to get a better overall picture. I will be recovering the box as I'm not happy with the way the suede turned out. I have plenty of room for the amps under the box. The amps (saz-125.2, saz-2000d) under the box. Without the box. I figured the 125.2 is going to get hot, not sure about the 2000d. So I went inside to grab some 120mm fans. I'll mount them to the back of the cover panel that goes from the frame to the floor. I will use at least 4, maybe more. I've yanked the interior out of the truck 3 days in a row now, so I thought I'd run my new rca's while I could. I an planing to put a pioneer dex-p99rs in the truck and go active sometime soon so 4 runs of rca's and I don't have to screw around with this again. I made some cheap wire separators to keep the rca's flat under the carpet. This also works great for keeping spark plug wires separate, no more misfires. I may go golfing tomorrow, not sure. I also have the frame in primer and will paint it tomorrow. I may start recovering the box as well.

The loudest will be the setup that gives you the most capability to have maximized your excursion and cone area per volume that you have available for you box. There is NO generic answer to your question and even specific answers might require testing although someone who is capable with modeling could determine it as well (and no I don't mean some jackass with a copy of BP6 as cabin gain is by far the hardest portion of the equation to model).

However, if you are truly going to run a 125.2 then all of the processing above is overkill as you can't run active with only 2 channels. When i read "Best possible sound without going overboard" it screams for the JBL solution. It will really help you in the learning process unlike any of the other choices. You can whack out any anomalies that the stock headunit adds and at the same time get a general setup for your drivers. While the general setup will be far from ideal, it will be way better than your first shot. And most definitely do not run those drivers sealed. If that is your goal, you should look elsewhere for a mid which potentially could make a lot of sense anyways if you are running active.

The DQL-8 from Audio Control is pretty flexible. It's about on par with the the 360.2 without the need for ther palm pilot or any worries about the RF's noise issues. Personally, I think the MS-8 is more than you would ever need and the only reason for purchasing it would be if it was near the same price point as one of the other processors. IIRC, there are several versions of the Clean Sweep too, and all do different things. If you have the Mach or Shaker system in your car, you will indeed need one of these as the factory systems are heavily EQ'd. You could attempt to get signal out of the stock HU though as all the factory processing is done in the amps and in an outboard EQ located elsewhere in the car.

I wouldn't seal the CF's. Pretty high Qts, really designed for operating IB. As Sean and I have said; It all depends on your goals. From what you've said, I'm still not sure With a $600 spread in price between something like the Cleansweep and MS-8, it really depends on how important imaging, etc is to you. Your range so far goes from talking about imaging, to just not wanting it to sound like crap. With the Cleansweep you'll get a conditioned factory signal but without any additional tuning. You'll probably still be able to get a subjectively "good" sounding stereo if certain considerations are taken into account when installing the speakers. Imaging may or may not be good depending on the install. But overall would definitely sound far from "crap", and what you lose in sound you'll make up for with a fatter wallet. With the MS-8 you get the whole deal. Signal condition, processing, and the ability to obtain great frequency response and imaging with a properly installed and setup system. As I said, it's not completely dummy-proof as there are certain things install/setup related that the MS-8 can't fix. But setting up the MS-8 is about as "Idiots Guide to Processing" as it can get. Plug in the mic, setup xover points/slopes, follow the on-screen prompts, turn your head a couple times, and it literally takes care of the rest for you while still giving you some flexibility in level settings and frequency response after it does it's thing. There are some helpful hints and tricks to using it to obtain optimal results, but really as far as processing goes it's the easiest product on the market to use with the best results. So, it's up to. $200 or $800. Good results or better results.