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Alright folks! Usaci Finals is next weekend....soooooo...time to sexy up my install! The paint and such is drying now but we basically made the box SEXY as all get out and built a new amp rack! We also threw threw a Powerbass 3K @ the LMS today and created a COSMIC ORGASM !!!!!!!!!! Can't wait till my new amp gets here! Now onto the pics! Vids will be up tomorrow...i'm kinda tired...lol A few supplies here.... LMS next to Type Arrrgghhhh 10"!

Got some tune time in, and I am amazed at how clear and LOUD these speakers are. It was a straight switch from stock speakers with no amp, to the Bravox's with the Alpine PDX on them and my friend is as happy as could be. Right out the box I knew they were great speakers, the build quality was phenomenal. The crossovers do seem a little bulky, but since we didn't use them, it didn't bother me that much. Once we were deep into the install I was going to put the 6.5" into the door only to realize the Bravox's were physically wider then the stock ones by about 1/8th of an inch. So after some careful dremel work to make room I got them in. After that was the tweeter installation, my friend didn't want to drill massive holes into his car for flush mounting so I just placed them on the top of the door panel as far forward as I could with the angle mounts. The tweeter was VERY difficult to get into the angle mounts for some reason. With just plugging everything in to make sure it played and ZERO tuning, gains still at 6v on the amp, I was already blown away by the Bravox's clarity and loudness. With only tuning in gains, a little EQ play, and some crossover tweaking. I have come to the conclusion........... These are some simply amazing speakers.

Jacob will do them for free if your getting the recones from him, just ask.

Top sanded down, flush mount and getting ready to cut the circles. Teaser pic of the drivers. Andrew

^^^^^If you cant make your own baffle rings then get a shop to make them for you, thats what I did since my baffles were going to be in the doors and I knew moisture would mess up the mdf. So I went to a shop and got mine made of polyurethane plastic (about $40-50 for the pair but worth it). Not saying you have to get them made in plastic but just another option as well but most 6.5" speakers are oversize 6.5" or 6.75" speakers. Your cheapest option would be to get some mdf and measue your speakers inside flange diameter and outside diameter and use that to make design out of cardboard or if your tool worthy then draw it on without a template. Cutout the baffles (make them as thick as you want 0.25-0.75" if need be) and viola. You can do the same as above with the tweeters and measure the original frame and go from there. You can also put the tweeters in the sail or A pillars, dont know how much work you want to do or put into the car. But if you take pictures it would help make better options available for you, hope this helps.

It will raise Fs a bit while increasing mechanical power handling, go for it if you want.

You aren't understanding the purpose behind setting the gain. When you set the gain, you are setting the input sensitivity of the amp (ideally) so that it operates at maximum rail voltage without exceeding that voltage. You aren't setting the gain based on the impedance of the load, that's simply one means by which to help figure out where to set the input sensitivity control. Almost every amplifier has a fixed amount of gain. If you drive the amplifier with 1V of input and it outputs 20V, then the amplifier has a 20:1 gain ratio. If the amplifier has a maximum operating rail voltage of 40V (400w @ 4ohm), then it needs 2V of input signal to achieve that level of output. But, almost every amplifier is also designed to be capable of operating at it's full power output with a wide range of input signals....hence, the gain knob. Setting this knob to a certain position manipulates the level of the input signal so that the input signal is at the proper level for the amplifier will operate at it's maximum rail voltage without trying to exceed that voltage level. So if you have a 4V headunit outputting the full 4V, and you set the gain control to the "4V" level, then essentially the amplifier is attenuating that input signal by 2V so that after the 20:1 gain the output voltage will be 40V, right where it needs to be. But wait.....if the knob doesn't have a "4V" mark on it's dial, how do I know where the 4V setting is? Well, that's where the chart comes in. Since we normally aren't given the rail voltage of the amplifier, we're forced to calculate it back out of the information we are given. So if we know the amplifier is designed to output 400w @ 4ohm, we now know that the amplifier's going to output 40V. So, we now know the target rail voltage to achieve for a "proper" setting of the input sensitivity is 40V. So we put on a test tone and turn the gain knob until we achieve 40V. Make sense? Now, I'm not saying this is the ideal method of setting the gain. For starters, it assumes the amplifier is capable of cleanly outputting exactly rated power. On an underrated or overrated amplifier, the gain setting may not be accurate. In addition, there is also an issue with the actual level of the input signal. Using 0db will keep the amplifier from clipping (since HU output will be at it's maximum), but music is almost never at that level so we end up reducing the actual average power we'll receive from the amplifier. Etc, etc, not worth rehashing right now, but you get the point. The gain setting is really independent of the actual load or impedance rise. If the amplifier is capable of 40V, that's not going to change with impedance (for amplifiers with non-regulated outputs)*. Hence why amplifiers are normally rated at, for example, 400w @ 4ohm, 800w @ 2ohm, 1600w @ 1ohm. If you run the numbers or look on the chart, you'll see that the voltage for each for is the same....40V. If your load rises to 8ohm, you can't try to set it for 400w @ 8ohm because you'll exceed the rail voltage of the amplifier. You would set the gain for 200w @ 8ohm, maintaining that 40V rail voltage. *EDIT: I should mention that it's possible and not atypical for an amplifier's output to not hold true to the "double each time impedance is halved" rule for several reasons. A weak power supply, internal losses, current capabilities of the outputs, etc will limit the ability of the amplifier to double output as impedance decreases. As a result, the voltage at lower impedances may decrease. Sundown 1200D as an example. sqrt(360*4) = 37.95V, sqrt(720*2) = 37.95V, sqrt(1200*1) = 34.64V.

Flares mocked up! First one in! Second one in! Andrew

mine had 3

PIMP MY RIDE Ha Ha!! You want the clothes dryer or the snowcone machine??

You Fail. Try again in a week or so.