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I got an early start today. I made some panels to replace the rear seats, the cover panel from the frame to the floor, fans installed in the cover panel, amp mounted, subs and box installed and the truck put back together. I'm having issues with the 2000d, I'll post a thread in the sundown forum. The left/right rear seat panels. The cover panel. The cover panel with fans. The cover panel in place. I'm ordering some fan grills, just not sure which one's yet. The box with speaker cutouts. The box installed. The sa8's sound pretty damn good, but I'm having issues with the amp. I assume it's not enough battery, but we'll see what I can find out.

First off, to those who have helped me with my mid bass thread. I'm still planning/ listening as time allows. Thank you, to those that have offered help , you know who you are, it's greatly appreciated and I should have some updates soon. O.K., I figured I'd better get off my ass now that i have some time and get the subwoofer box on its way. This is an enclosure for 4 sa-8's, 3.6 c.f. (net) tuned to 33 hertz with 52.875" of port. It will be driven by a sundown saz-2000d @ 1 ohm. This is going in my 2000 ranger extended cab pickup. Everybody has seen enclosures with kerfed ports, but not like this one I'd bet. I was originally going to do a double kerfed port, but in the end it wasn't worth it from a stability standpoint. I found a good price on some 11 ply Baltic Birch so I picked up 2 sheets. After working with this I'll never go back to MDF again. It's not void free, but it should be fine. This was my helper, until the saw fired up. (neighborhood buddy, My brother has 5) I tried to kerf some mdf, but didn't have much luck with a 2" inside radius., so I went with what I know. Steel, (11ga.) which I "nipped" into these radii ( 2" i.d., 2 3/4" o.d. and 7 1/4" i.d.) I don't have a router, only a circular saw, jigsaw and a drill. I need to route out some material so the steel kerfs would be flush with the surface of the wood. I then got out my "circu-router" and proceeded to do just that. I cut the first hole and thought,"I'd better check the fit (woofer porn to follow). I forgot how big the motor on the sa-8 was until these pics. it fit quite well. It looks like it's time to mow the driveway again. Let's start getting this together. I don't have the patients to wait for glue to dry, so we glue and screw. I figured I'd paint the port while I had a good angle at it. I may go with a charcoal instead. It depends on the fabric i choose to cover it in, black or gray, like trunk carpeting. I haven't decided yet. A few more panels glued and screwed. It was getting late, so I stopped taking pics til I was almost finished. I will paint the area around the woofers to match the port, gray or black. I can't wait to hear this. I've got the last of the electrical coming on tues.. I still need to do that, 4 runs off 1/0 kolossus flex and some 4 awg. runs as well as a new alternator, big 3 and weld up an amprack/enclosure frame. I hope you enjoyed the pics.

Depends on the slope, I wouldn't be surprised if it is using a 1st order network. Either way, why go active with a set of drivers that you have a crossover for already?

That's a big box or small car. Lol

So the Khaotik Enclosure didn't fit (fail) so i had Ernie build me one. It's 2.5 cubes after displacement tuned to 32hz, carpeted black with a black painted port, double baffle w/ flush mount, 45's all around, rounded edges.. etc.. etc.. I got the front stage done for the most part. The 6.5s are mounted and the door panels back on (no pictures, too busy installing) All i have left to do is mount the tweeters. Tomorrow in the early AM i'm going to pick the box up and knock out the sub stage. I'll be sure to take some pictures and videos. Pictures of the equipment: Stock Head Unit Bravox Audio CS60CF SSA ICON Kicker Amp Kit

Lol! Ohh, clean is all she deserves! Thanks dude! Thank you! Thanks bro. Sold it a little while ago to help out for finances. Had that truck since 2001. Gracias. Thanks! I will use one of the sets for the rear fill. Ill explain more in the pics... I know, I know! Haha! No crazy excessive speakers here. Just loud? Lol. I know its taken awhile but i got those pics for you Chop. A few of them this time! Of course you can take it for a spin bro. Just keep it under a hundred! The rims will do for now. But I thought of something with a wide black face maybe...

If you have room for a quad setup of DCONS I think you maybe surprised at the output! When properly installed in an accurate ported enclosure with a properly setup amplifier, you can achieve great output without having to run more than 1,000 watts.

www.linearteam.org

Pics or Lies you didn't bake that one....

The steering shaft should work now, hated to beat up these headers , its just how it is. By grasshoper at 2010-10-10 Had to trim back the slip sleeve on the shaft, and round down the inner shaft with a grinder By grasshoper at 2010-10-10

Expecting output and running 8's IB won't really jive either. Cone area is your friend in that alignment.

It shouldn't take a ton of power in most IB alignments to get full excursion out of the drivers, especially down low. Could you post the T/S parameters of those drivers? I wonder if they are truly intended for IB. Sometimes a manufacturer will say a driver is IB capable when it is not truly optimized for this (sometimes the suspention is just way to compliant, even though the Q is right to give decent response without a box).... Is the volume output adequate, or is it lacking in your opinion?

I didn't get started until after 12:00 today, but it was a pretty good day. It may not look like I got allot done, but the SUNDOWN logo took forever to cut out. I'm happy I decided to redo the suede. It's not perfect, but it turned out not to shabby in my opinion. I pulled the primed frame out, painted it (2 coats metallic charcoal) and cleared it (3 coats). It turned out pretty good for a rattle can. I went to work and got some of my spring clamps, the wind was not going bite me twice while wrapping the box. Here's the frame. I still need a way to mount a cover panel to it, I'll figure something out. A closeup in the sun. Today is my brothers birthday, we're celebrating it tomorrow at our moms. I think I'll let the adhesive cure until Saturday before I cut the woofer holes and port out. I am no tailor, but I needed an easy way to cover the ends of the box. I picked up some stainless screws and finishing washers to do the ends. The end of the box. I used the old "eyecrometer" (it's in need a caibration by the looks of this pic) on the spacing/line of the screws so don't rip into me too much. The SUNDOWN logo without the holes cut out. I should have more pics on Saturday.

I guess for starters I really don't see the point behind any of these charts. Not to devalue stephan's work.....but com'on, it's basic math that anyone capable of successfully operating a computer should be able to figure out on their own in a matter of minutes with a calculator. It would probably take more time to pull up a chart than it would to just figure it out by hand. I mean seriously, would people really not be able to figure out the area of more than one circle, then compare that number to another, on their own without use of a chart? Can someone not look on the companies website for Sd, multiply it by the number of drivers they want to use, and do the same for a different sized driver and then compare the two? If someone can't manage to figure out this little bit of information on their own, then they should probably to revisit elementary school as that is where the basic skill sets required to accomplish this feat are acquired. My main issue with the use of that chart, aside from the laziness required to even need to use that chart, is that it is teaching people wrong information. It may be close enough for government work....but it's still wrong. And if it's teaching novices wrong information, then that will simply confuse them more. They'll be missing out on a basic but fundamental concept. Cone area is a simple driver parameter, that is apparently disturbingly misunderstood. It'll only make things worse if we start them off by teaching them wrong information. When you were in school, your educators hopefully didn't teach you that Pi was 3 since that's "close enough" (there have actually been laws passed throughout the years to attempt to change the "officially recognized" value of Pi in various states and localities....ignorance abound). Second, there can actually be a fairly significant difference in Sd between two same sized drivers. If we assume there's no difference by using incorrect values for determining area, then we are again missing important details. A 12W7 for example has approximately 1db worth of additional cone area than the SSA drivers listed above. That's breaching the realm of audibility, due simply to difference in cone area between two different "twelve inch" drivers that the original chart completely ignores. Last, most people interested in cone area are trying to determine potential output differences. Cone area alone is useless for this purpose. For that, you would need to know Vd not just Sd. In order to obtain an accurate Vd, you would need an accurate Sd and Xmax. Using inaccurate Sd will misrepresent potential output capabilities and differences. Again, making the information useless and teaching novices wrong information. Overall, I can't think of a single reason to suggest or recommend the use of wrong information.

I started today with the amp rack. The feet are welded off, and the angle iron to hold the amps is welded off. I put the box in to get a better overall picture. I will be recovering the box as I'm not happy with the way the suede turned out. I have plenty of room for the amps under the box. The amps (saz-125.2, saz-2000d) under the box. Without the box. I figured the 125.2 is going to get hot, not sure about the 2000d. So I went inside to grab some 120mm fans. I'll mount them to the back of the cover panel that goes from the frame to the floor. I will use at least 4, maybe more. I've yanked the interior out of the truck 3 days in a row now, so I thought I'd run my new rca's while I could. I an planing to put a pioneer dex-p99rs in the truck and go active sometime soon so 4 runs of rca's and I don't have to screw around with this again. I made some cheap wire separators to keep the rca's flat under the carpet. This also works great for keeping spark plug wires separate, no more misfires. I may go golfing tomorrow, not sure. I also have the frame in primer and will paint it tomorrow. I may start recovering the box as well.

Yesterday I got the alternator installed and the rest of the wiring under the hood done. It was getting cold, 45-50 degrees, to make matters worse after 12:00 it would sprinkle for 15 minutes then stop, then start, then stop. I kept putting things back in the garage, then taking them out again. I'd had enough around 4:30. The alternator installed, I know , big whoop. It's a massive 200 amp DB Electrical on a 4 cylinder. GOT CORROSION???????? These are the stock 100,000 plus miles battery terminals. These are the new terminals with all the connections made. It's getting crowded in here. The monster of a battery will be upgraded soon. The 2 fuse blocks mounted and wires run. The voltage at idle. The stock was at 14.45 idle and dropped to 12.89 volts at idle with a 50 hertz tone and 1 jl 500/1 at full tilt. Today was warmer and no rain. I got started on the frame to secure the enclosure and will add angle iron to secure some amps under the enclosure. Time to get the welder out. It does quite well for a 110 volt welder. When trying to remove the rear seats I snapped the heads of 2 bolts. 100,000 plus miles of rust and crap on the threads. I got the metabo with wire wheel and some penetrating oil out to remove the rest of the bolts. Then I got the drill and tap set out to repair the snapped bolts because I'm using the existing holes to mount the frame to the floor. The frame in the truck. The existing amps will have to be relocated (or flipped upside down) so I can adjust the crossovers and gains. The amps are mounted on an aluminum frame behind the plastic panel. I need more angle iron to finish the frame. I make it tomorrow at work. I hope to have the box done and installed by this weekend, we'll see.

I got a late start today and my camera was pissing me off. It doesn't want to work unless the batteries are new, so I didn't take allot of pics. I made an aluminum mounting bracket for my fuse blocks. Drilled some holes and mounted them. I got 4-1/0 runs down the underside of the truck, clamped well out of the way of anything hitting or catching them. Drilled 4 - 1" holes to bring them into the rear of the truck, mounted the strain reliefs and pulled the wire into the cab. The wires are 1" away from the metal in this pic, it's just the angle that makes it look like there touching. Inside of the truck. These are water tight strain reliefs. Don't mind the other wires in this pics, they will all be removed. I over guesstimated how much cable I'd need. I could run all 4 of these back to a trailer and power a stereo in it if I needed to. Better to have too much than too little and too much is just about right. I hope to get the rest of the electrical done tomorrow and start welding the frame for the 2000d/ enclosure.

I got a late start today. I didn't get all the electrical finished, oh well. My camera was pissing me off, it doesn't work unless the batteries are brand new, so I don't have allot of pics today. I made up an aluminum mounting bracket for the 2 fuse blocks. Drilled some holes and got them mounted.

Well, today was almost a total loss. I started by repainting the port and replacing the c.s. screws with button head screws. While I was working on this I was almost run over by two pissed off squirrels. Then my brother comes out of the house to see what I'm doing, he looks up to say something, then his eyes got real big and he took a step back starring a the top of my head. To make a long story short, I thought there was a bee flying around my head or something, so I swatted my hand over my head and hit this praying mantis to the ground. I don't know how long it was there, I never felt it, I was wearing a bandana. It's about 5" long. I thought the screws and the port looked better. Then the brown truck showed up. My fuses, fuse holders, ring terminals, cushioned stainless steel clamps, battery terminal protectors and heat shrink tubing arrived. From this point everything went down hill. I got the black micro-suede out and cut "SUNDOWN" out in 4" tall letters, It looked pretty damn good. I sprayed the super 74 down on the backside of the black, reached over to get the silver suede and the wind folded the black over onto itself. NOW I'M F___KING PISSED!!!!!! I got it laid out smooth again, grabbed the silver and used the roller on it, o.k. I should be good. Right? I flip it over to admire the last 2 hours of work only to see the super 74 bled through the black and it's ruined. :suicide-santa: :suicide-santa: :suicide-santa: :suicide-santa: NOW I'M READY TO START THROWING S__T!!!!!!!!!!! So I head inside to do a search for a better adhesive. I don't find much. I head down to ace hardware to get some stainless wood screws and some stainless finishing washers to do the ends of the box. They had some Elmers spray adhesive that stated "low bleed through", so I bought a can. Well the Elmers doesn't bleed through, but I don't think it sticks either. I wrapped the box and cut the port and holes out. I check in the a.m. to see if it will hold the suede on or if I'm going to have to start over. THIS SUCK'S, a complete waste of a day!!!!!!!!!! If I redo the suede I may try the logo again, but for now this is what it looks like. On another note I picked up some strain relief's from menards to run the 1/0 into the back of the truck. I'll try to get the truck wired this weekend.

I hit one of the local fabric shops yesterday looking for something to cover the enclosure with. I've done vinyl in the past, but thought I'd change it this time. I found this fleece and felt, nothing else really caught my eye. I wasn't really happy when I left the store. I picked up some paint for the port and the area around the woofers. I also got some super 74 adhesive. I don't like the look of the the countersink screws that I used, so I picked up some stainless steel button heads to replace them. Today I went to another fabric shop and ran across this microfiber suede. I was much happier when I left with my this material. I also hit an arts-n-crafts store and got these. I hope it turns out as good as I have it pictured in my head. It should look like this, but black/silver instead. I'm golfing tomorrow, It's supposed to rain mon/tues.. I may have some more pics wed, I hope.

What Mr. Pacutepaw said! If you can, get a 15" But the Mayhem is one heck of a durable subwoofer