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Rude and strict is sometimes what makes this place better than any other. If you let them kids do what they want it will just turn out like SMD, CАСО and so on... Soon the knowledgeable guys lose interest in the forum and it gets abandoned.

I was being general in my response as a guide, not specific to your install. In this case same distance means just same distance, not exact mounting locations. While that would be ideal I seriously doubt you can come up with a good way to get the SLS up on your dash too. You can infer from my vertical comments that you need to have the midrange up high which is more beneficial than putting them in the kicks with the midbass. Keep them up on the dash

Oh noes ...

Brahma MkII were designed for sound quality with some output. The Achilles heal of those subs is the coil... or lack of a substantial one. While Adire called them 1600, I call that coil 600-800 with the DAF applied (which is how we rate all subs). The comparable sub for the time was the RE XXX, and it was also rated at 1600W (by me) and had significantly more coil in it than the Brahma. Very linear sub, but lacking suspension and thermal ability by todays standards. In having built all the Mk1 and Mk2 Brahmas (Kodas, and Tumults, and other variants for Adire) there isnt too much that can be done coil and thermal wise to the sub to beef it up. We do offer an extra spider, but beyond that they dont have enough motor force to support much more. With XBL coil height is critical. Go any longer and it has double BL at rest and then switches to standard BL one coil is in only one gap. Issue is, it kills the flat BL curve and makes an even larger distortion shift. Thanks, Scott

Good questions T/A is never a solution, but a band aid. Proper installation is the first goal or at least should be. EQ & T/A can help in the positioning domain, but does nothing for the vertical which is why I am a proponent of you mounting the Fountek's on your dash Width and Depth, should be an outcome of placement & aiming. ie, installation. Perhaps the reasoning behind the comments, 90% installation, 5% equipment, 5% beer now makes sense to you. As for your midbass question. The first step is to get them as far from you as possible (read forward), then it is to get them as equal distant & equal angles from your ears as possible, and now make it the same distance as your mids. You can't electronically fix the angle, but T/A can help if the distances are off. It is a bandaid though and will never be as good as actual physical mounting. Width & Depth are related to positioning of the drivers more than anything. Cars suck ass for this in general and here is where you have no choice but to compromise.

Be sure to rough up the surround lip and the basket with 60 grit, then glue in and keep pressure on it for a few hours, let the glue cure for 24 hours and your good.

That's just the surround. I would use some CA glue, which can be had at any local Hobby Lobby or craft store.

What they are trying to say is you go for both applications, daily and spl are 2 totally different things, if you want a good daily setup that has the potential to get loud on a mic then you might want to look into the sundown nightshade v.1 or the v.2. But if you want a v.1 then you will have to buy a used one somewhere. Also want to look at the ssa xcons which have great sound quality (not sure if you are looking for that) and have a great potential to get loud off the right power in a solid box. Everything is install dependent, electrical, box, amp, etc etc blah blah. Think about you're goals again and save up for that, also might want to think about you're front stage aswell, you will need something that's going to keep up with 2 15's on 3500 watts. P.S. I know some people may come off as dicks on here but they are really just trying to help you, you need to be able to post correctly. Grammer, spelling etc. Alson don't ask dumb questions like what sub should I get. You don't want other peoples goals you want you're own, may ask what subs would suit you're needs but not what is better.

No. IT all comes down to efficiency here. The only way to get louder is to increase power, displacement, or efficiency. The other driver will need to be 3dB more efficient, or he'll have to double power, or double the cone area for him to notice an audible difference. Simply switching drivers may meter higher, but without one of the 3 above variables changing, he won't notice a difference.

We can't tell you what exactly you will need because we aren't there doing it for you. But here's what we can recommend. If you run the saz-2500d at 1 ohm you will need electrical upgrades. Here is what you should try in order. Big 3, Battery or Batteries, High Output alternator. The saz-2500 draws a lot of current. You need power to make power. With the Saz-1500d you will probably need to do the big 3 and have an extra battery. Anyways, 2500 watts is a lot for those subs. SSDs are rated at 800 watts and with that amp you'll be giving them 1250 watts each. It may take it, but then again they may not. It really all depends on the install. Since you said you are new, I'd personally play it safe and go for the saz-1500d and run it at 1 ohm for 750 watts to each sub. make sure you get Dual 1 SSDS so you can wire to 1 ohm. Hope I helped.

M5..... lol Ha, really? Proportionate energy goes into answering the question based on the energy used in proposing it. Rude to me is not following the guidelines that have been requested of you and that you AGREED to when you joined the site. It gets really old when people over and over and over do the same things not at all showing ANY respect for the forum. Easy to see what happens when they do follow the guidelines, they get really good help.

I like the FR88's on the dash, I like the SLS in the doors (experience with 8's, but can read plots on the 6.5's) and considering what you have for processing there are definitely things you can do to hugely improve it. I would also state that going 3 way in the long run will probably sound worse as it is much harder to setup properly. If you aren't savy with 2 ways I would never recommend a 3. The 99rs is nice, but it is a hell of a lot of money for something which you may never use feature wise. Obviously if you "need" a 3 way front the story may change, but from what I have read so far that would be quite a leap. Perhaps you should start with an 880 that is used or something to nail down what you have and see if you need to go that far.

5x7's what are they for? The SLS and FR88 is ALL you should be running that is not your sub. Midbasses will be confusing to listen to on their own, but you cannot make decisions on their capabilities by muddying them up with any other drivers. I will add it is very hard to do this by getting out of the car, making a change and then listening again. The phase change on the FR's should have made a significant difference. You are just changing one and not the other right? The Dayton 28 is an okay tweeter, but it is only a $10 tweeter. I personally prefer to spend a bit more on mine. It also won't play nice with either the FR88 as ultra top end is not its thing and it won't play low enough to mix with the Peerless. The $5 ND20 would work better for your application....assuming you are using this for a 3 way since you cannot use it for a 2 way. I'll also add that for a 3way you will NEED processing outside of the amplifiers. It helps a crap ton with the 2 way even. I would find it very weird to listen to a stage that was centered in my position in a car. The combination or aural and spatial cues wouldn't make me happy. That being said I don't want it centered in car either. Somewhere in between is my preference. You can have yours, but right in front of you will be most easily achieved if you move the right drivers a bit closer... Otherwise you are going to have too much processing to fix the stage which will then detract from the FR of the stereo.

Sometimes the only reason I read some of the threads is because it says M5, Impious, 95Honda, Nick@Fi and so on...have replied to them. Don't even read OPs post, just scroll down and enjoy a well put answer (no offense to the others I've missed or scrolled over, lol).

As am I. Nobody is more interested in having another good sound deadener company around. Those that think I have been too harsh may not realize how badly FatMat has behaved in the past. harsh?? lol, not harsh...arrogant, aloof, elitest..should i go on? no, the truth is, i would love to see you test his product, as i said in my first post. i even think he should match what you buy, so you're not out all the money. but again... whatever. FatMat may have indeed behaved badly in the past, you've shown links to that, great! i don't doubt that you know what you are doing, especially since aaron backs you. but you still attacked two members here, one a manufacturer himself, about ethics and such because we suggested a compromise of sorts? again, get off your high horse bro. visitor nailed it.... and steve...i suggest sending don samples at either a discounted price or some other agreed upon method. or get gone. simple as that. past history of the FatMat name isn't good, so what do you have to lose? wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee