Leaderboard

Update Time Got the box wrapped and put it in the Yukon. I ain't going to lie, this is one heavy bitch. The three of us were red faced and hurting after. The right corner got scratch up moving it from the porch to the truck and that sucks, but I ain't redoing it. Might try to use some vinyl repair from the parts store to see if i can make it look a little better. Anyone got any other ideas. Amps and batteries installed, still need to finish the battery box. I will wrap it in vinyl and put a lid on it to hide wires. The wires on top are not installed, they will go in the box and will be covered up with a lid. I will drill holes in the dividers and pass the wire through that to the next batteries. I thought real hard about not mounting the amps like this on the box, but in the end said WTF, they look good here so that's where they are going. The back wall of the enclosure is 1.5" thick and the amps are on a 3/4" baffle. Hopefully this wont be a bad move on my part. For some nighttime fun, wired some LED's in the box. My buddy said it looks like a fish tank. I agree. lol With the inside painted white it changed to glow to a aqua instead of a blue. I like it better. I had some help with the lights and have to give a shout out to my friend Sefugi. Thank you for all your help, it turned out better than I expected. Now I need to wiire up the subs and sub amps. Hopefully it wont be much longer. Everytime I think i just have just a little bit left to do, I am wrong. I am getting closer tho. :dancing: :dancing: :dancing: :dancing: :dancing: :dancing:

So, build logs aren't really my thing. For one, my fabrication skills are easily bested by a monkey on narcotics. Second, I simply don't have the patience to stop and take pictures when I'm in the middle of doing something. But, a couple people have asked so......here it is. My attempt at building kickpanels to house the CS603CF comp set. Thank you to audiolife for lending his ears while playing with the aiming, and GrampaDon for lending a hand at wrapping the kicks. Onward to the pictures I suppose. First pictures are of the basic molds for the kickpanels. My vehicle happens to have an opening in each kickpanel location that vents into the fender area, so I fashioned a hole into the molds for both kickpanels so that the midbass will see an infinite baffle alignment. The molds also have kind of an odd shape at the top because they were originally trimmed to fit around my horns. Wish I hadn't done that now that I'm not using the horns as I could have used a little extra height to work with...but I was not going to make new molds, so I rolled with it. The speaker baffles, which look a little like Mickey Mouse. Plunge router with circle jig FTMFW. First time I've countersunk with it (the midrange & tweeter baffles)....turned out pretty well IMO. The comp set in their soon-to-be home. Kickpanels in the kicks showing the aiming. I spent several hours spread over several weekend afternoons working on aiming. I felt this positioning did the best. I think the aiming might be a smidge different now as I originally didn't have quite enough clearance for the rear of the midbass with my initial aiming, and I can't remember when I took these pictures. But the aiming is pretty much the same, regardless. And the kickpanels how they currently sit. I trimmed the shape some compared to the above pictures. It's starting to get a bit chilly up here, so I've been using a heat lamp and antique heater (that I'm honestly surprised works, and hasn't caught fire yet) to aid the curing process. The passenger side kick (right) has 2 layers of 'glass and the drivers side has 1 layer. I'd planned to put another layer on the passenger side tonight but got home from work late. The temperature is dropping the next couple days, not sure if I'll get anymore 'glass laid down again until Friday/Saturday. But my goal right now is to atleast get them functional this weekend. Bondo/sanding/finishing them off may end up waiting until spring depending on how the weather goes. If they start playing music before winter.....that's good enough for me. And just for shits and giggles.....my ("son's") snake that I bought a few weeks ago He named it Joe Cool......

For most audio applications a scope won't be terribly expensive because you don't need a ton of bandwidth. Anything over a 100Mhz scope will be overkill for 99% of what you do... (and this is really only needed when T/S power supplies, etc....) You should be able to find a decent used 100MHz Techtronics for pretty cheap. If your sole reason for buying a scope now is for gain setting, then I would wait until you are further into your career and use it for something useful....

If you haven't already purchased the 1500D then, If I were in your shoes, I would save a little cash and pick up one of the smaller Sundown mono blocks for a little less cash. A little overhead is never a bad thing as long as your gains are set correctly, but saving money is never bad as well. I would also go with the 3 10's ported. Good luck! Colby

CLZZ is on the same server as SSA, HAF, CA-F, and DSBP

This is from the show today 11-06-2010. Was a crazy spot just near the airport where planes where flying very low coming in for landings right over top of the crowd, was awesome!

Google Sketchup

Port is 341sq inches. The port edge is not rounded, but will be when i put these on the front and paint them black.

made you guys a banner for this, it's such a great idea we wanted to help the cause. Also, put this banner at the top of all your sections

Dash is out and the modding wheels are turning. Have to fit the Autometer package in the factory spot, but should not be a problem. Here are some pics. By grasshoper at 2010-11-05 By grasshoper at 2010-11-05 By grasshoper at 2010-11-05 By grasshoper at 2010-11-05 At 205197 the old 4.3 did a good job. Now it's time to turn back the odometer to 0 and have a little more power!! By grasshoper at 2010-11-05 Our project this week is to take this space below and fit the Autometer package into it. By grasshoper at 2010-11-05 These are the guages going in the above space. By grasshoper at 2010-11-07

That should be easy. Nothing special about the IDMax but its price tag. Don't throw money away!

Thanks for the reply. Trying to talk him out of an ID Max and towards an Fi Q.

Don't let the the low weight fool ya on the DCON. They have plenty of beef where it counts and that's in the output and sq!

I was lucky enough to watch Paul from Fi build up an SMD from start to finish. What a monster those are. He is one hell of a sub builder. Bonus Pic:

Very nice job of turning a mess into a clean purpose built harness, it looks great. It has to drive you nuts making sure the right size ring terminals and other connectors are in the correct place. I assume you must have allot of different size connectors on hand. Strain reliefs are cheap and work well. From my sa-8 build. I put the big end on the inside so it wouldn't get damaged.

Now it's time to get the relays setup for the few circuits that need modded since there is not a computer to control 2 of the circuits plus the addition of 2 circuits. Quick diagram for the relays. By grasshoper at 2010-11-05 Relay pack. By grasshoper at 2010-11-05 Relays harnessed up and ready. By grasshoper at 2010-11-05 Harness is in place under the hood and here is were the relays will go. By grasshoper at 2010-11-05 A little fun while getting the realys mounted. Gotta make sure the are straight. By grasshoper at 2010-11-05 By grasshoper at 2010-11-05 Various pictures of the wring around the engine bay... By grasshoper at 2010-11-05 By grasshoper at 2010-11-05 By grasshoper at 2010-11-05 By grasshoper at 2010-11-05 By grasshoper at 2010-11-05 By grasshoper at 2010-11-05 By grasshoper at 2010-11-05 By grasshoper at 2010-11-05 By grasshoper at 2010-11-05 By grasshoper at 2010-11-05 By grasshoper at 2010-11-05 By grasshoper at 2010-11-05 By grasshoper at 2010-11-05 Just a few more connections under the hood to take care of, still lots to do in the dash for the new guage package. Comments, questions or whatever is on your mind post it up. We understand this is not an audio install at this point, but we do want to hear your comments on this phase of the project. Thanks, and stay tuned!

Qucik prep for the beginning of phase 2 of this project. Installing the 1/0 grommet in the firewall. By grasshoper at 2010-11-05 By grasshoper at 2010-11-05 By grasshoper at 2010-11-05 By grasshoper at 2010-11-05 By grasshoper at 2010-11-05 By grasshoper at 2010-11-06 I know this is something simple but is part of the install that I don't recall seeing in any of the builds I've looked at so far.(of coarse I may have missed a few along the way)

Time for some updates...It seems this build is really dragging, but when you are completely rebuilding the wiring harness and redesigning the drivetrain it takes as long as it takes especially when you are trying to go the extra mile to make sure it is done right. So on to the updates. If there seems to be to many pics of wiring to bad just passing along how much has been done and the pics don't show the half of it. On to the pics... Various shots along the way... By grasshoper at 2010-11-05 By grasshoper at 2010-11-05 Figuring circuits and location of were they need to be. By grasshoper at 2010-11-05 By grasshoper at 2010-11-05 Grounding circuits have been relocated and lengths adjusted... By grasshoper at 2010-11-05 By grasshoper at 2010-11-05 By grasshoper at 2010-11-05 By grasshoper at 2010-11-05 This is the overall harness built other than connecting the few circuits for the relays and the new guages that will be installed in the dash By grasshoper at 2010-11-05 By grasshoper at 2010-11-05 By grasshoper at 2010-11-05 By grasshoper at 2010-11-05 By grasshoper at 2010-11-05 By grasshoper at 2010-11-05 That's the end of actually building the harness, next we will get to installing it under the hood.

weakass

I would get the 2500, it gives you the head room, and if you set the gain properly along with knowing your limits on the volume knob you should be fine. Those subs will handle more then 800rms fairly easy, when FI first came out I ran the SSd12s with 1000watts each problem free for 10 months before upgrading. With the 1500 he will be prone to cranking the gain and volume up do to not getting the desired output and when that happens its game over for the subs due to CLIPPING! With the 2500 he can keep the power clean and thats the name of the game when over powering a woofer.