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They will work just fine on the output of the amp. A/C or D/C doesn't matter, they will forward bias/reverse bias faster than than your eyes will ever be able to detect. They will just light up with the bass (assuming you have a low pass filter, pretty sure you do with a class D.) You'll just need to use a resistor to drop voltage and keep things safe. The resistor value will depend on your led forward bias current rating. If you aren't sure, just start with something high like 10K or so and work your way down. If you are using very high output leds, the resistor will be much smaller. Try and use a 1/2 watt or higher at least for the resistor, a few watts will be better, depending on how many leds you will use. Also, you could just use a ton in series, that will be fine too, jst make sure you hook up the polarity right, if you put one in backwards, there will always be one reversed bias and no cuurent will flow. I use leds in my amps I build straight of of the mains input (50/60Hz) with a dropping resistor and you could never tell it was driven by AC. The leds will blow up before you hurt an amp with an output stage like that....

That's always a possibility. But instead of asking that question, go out and find it. We've given you plenty of places to start. after you have tried those options come back and tell us that your amp is still doing it if they have failed. can't give you much anything else until you do. Re-wire everything. find a completely new ground. Sand it down and bolt it tight.

Chances are you are going to overload them with current due their inherently low resistance. IT's almost a dead short, so you would need thousands of them to work properly without some form of circuitry control. It may work if you wire enough up and use a very very small amp just for them, but then you run into another problem. You get lights that come on and off due to the reversing alternating current, and get dim and bright due to the varying voltage coming out of the amp.

Considering mild clipping (which seems to be your concern) has basically no effect on the driver, it really isn't an issue. Honestly, I just say this because I read about this all the time, and I really doubt that anyone is really doing any sort of objective measuring/adjusting. I only say this because the signal chain in most sytems has way to many variables to try and calibrate one part (gain of the final amp) and think everything is OK. Additionally, the clipping issue is just plain retarded. There are maybe only a handfull of people on here that have done any real testing and can give actual test data/testimony. Almost everyone else is just spouting heresay and theories... It is almost stupid and seems to be used as the scapegoat every time someone blows a driver... But it is honestly a dead horse at this point... Buy a decent scope that will help you with your career path. Not to calibrate equipment for people who are clueless....

the best place to deaden at the start is always the doors. the vibrations from the road come up the tires, through the frame, and then bounce around in the doors, so that's the best place to deaden whenever you start a new project, for future reference. if you havent yet done all of the doors do those first. after that you should focus on the rest of the car, as the rest is more or less effected the same amount by the vibrations that run through the car. except the roof. that's usualy the least effected of all the areas in the car. AX