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It's really important when looking at a problem like this to figure out what is going on. The quick answer is always "put some deadener (vibration damper) on it" but that may not really be what you need. Vibration damper will control panel resonance. That vibration can eventually loosen panels and lead to rattles but remember - rattles are always two or more hard objects making intermittent contact. Adding vibration damper may help and it may help prevent the conditions that led to the rattling, or not. We care about panel resonance because it can energize rattles, but more because it selectively reinforces the sound we hear at the natural frequency of the resonating panel. This only matters when you are looking for accurate reproduction. We also want to control panel resonance because it is a mechanism for transmitting noise into the vehicle from the outside. All of this means that sound deadener (vibration damper) has an important role to play when we care about quality musical reproduction and a quiet vehicle. It sounds to me like you were happy with things at first, beat the hell out of the vehicle and now it's starting to rattle. If what you want is to get back to the way things used to be, vibration damper isn't going to be the best answer. What we're really talking about in this case is accelerated wear. All of the clips and fasteners that used to be nice and snug have been moved around enough that they are wearing out. I'm really tempted to make an analogy to a a woman here, but will resist the urge. There are basically two approaches you can take to this problem. You can go through the vehicle and replace the clips and fasteners so that they are tight again or you can put something between the objects making contact to stop them from doing so. The best material for this is closed cell foam. Line the backs of the trim panels. Soft will be hitting hard and it won't make any noise. This will also take up some of the slack that has been created. If you care about resonance, apply vibration damper to the sheet metal while the panels are off. If not, you're good. This is really the inevitable result of adding more pressure to the system than it was designed to handle. Big dude, little chick kind of problem (couldn't resist )

We MAY have found the problem then.. try putting everything back, and tightening down that fuse really good to make sure it doesn't move or come loose, and see how it does. If the problem still occurs, check your grounds like I said before. If all that is good, then we'll try some more troubleshooting. we'll try to work out everything we can before having to send that amp off for nothing.. been there done that.. it sucks having to wait a month and a half to get back a perfectly fine amp and then finding out all that was wrong was a loose bolt on your ground connection.

No need to do this when all he needs to do is PM me. Done. And on top of that it is a violation of our Terms & Conditions. You are allowed ONE account. Having multiples does not promote the right forum atmosphere. Thank you for making a thread and asking that your name be changed

Brad you really didn't say that strongly enough. Objective measurements of a speaker will show EXACTLY what it can do. There is no magic driver that can avoid Physics. If it doesn't measure or model well for an application then it isn't a good driver for that application. Doesn't mean it can't fit a niche, but it will mean that there is something that can do that better. Subjectively some idiot may like it better, but that just confirms their stupidity. All the forum boners over brands and hype over nonsense is incredible. Shows the power of marketing and the lies and BS that some companies use to promote their gear which makes me sick. I am all game for someone defending their product and stating what it can do, but as I said earlier in this thread: Subjective responses by judges who are already aurally challenged will NEVER impress me, but true measurements will. If you want to pimp some product feel free to post up some REAL objective results. If you are unwilling and will only throw down subjective nonsense then it is obvious you are hiding the truth.

You mean subjective. I watch for the commercials (well, used to.....they've sucked here the past few years) I think you mean subjective again. Some car stereos get "rated" or judged at car audio competitions. But we aren't discussing car stereos as a whole, we were discussing an individual product; speakers. Therein lies the problem. A car stereo competition is a terrible means by which to attempt to "judge" individual speakers against other individual speakers. It's subject to a wide range of variables.....from subjective opinions to environmental and tuning/setup issues. Which makes it pretty useless for the purposes of comparing speakers themselves. Enter objective measurements......the ideal grounds upon which to compare individual speakers. Do those even exist anymore? Huh? If you don't understand how objective measurements correlate to the "real world", then you don't understand objective measurements. If you think that's the extent of the usefulness of T/S parameters, then you don't understand T/S parameters. 30% is a pretty pessimistic figure, or a brand with lesser quality QC......most good brands with decent QC are going to be in the sub-20% range. Which realistically isn't going to make much of a difference in overall performance. It would certainly be naive to think (or say) that T/S parameters entirely encapsulate the sound of a speaker. Nobody here is making such a claim. T/S parameters are a good start to understanding the behavior of a speaker, however. And some trophies and subjective opinions certainly don't tell me anything about the speakers. Though I do agree, one should select products based on what sound the end user is looking to achieve. But that doesn't make objective measurements any less useful.

Sean this is for you.

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/ that is all you need...

Some people use Dynamat which is a very high quality product but expensive. there are less expensive products on the market, such as Fat Matt or Lizardskin, however these products tend to be of a lesser quality than the pricier options. Another option would be to go with products from Second Skin Audio(secondskinaudio.com), the company I represent. keep in mind that there is quite a bit of labor involved in the installation of sound deadeners, and the lower quality products often do not perform as well as the more expensive ones, and sometimes require you to restart the entire project because they fall off. the main thing you want to avoid when shopping for sound deadeners is any products that uses asphalt or roofing materials in it. Dynamat, Second Skin Audio, and a few others do not use any asphalt or roofing materials in their products. I'm sure you will have many people offering you their opinions before 24 hours from now. use this information along with their opinions as you will. AX

Good video, but sucks for him What brand is this amp? just to let people know and is it me or are there loose power/ground wires around the amp? or did they disconnected during the bass test?