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Amps only amplify the incoming signal. They do not change the sound. An unclipped, clean signal will sound the same, IMO. The main reasons to buy a brand X over Y are price, features, and brand reliability. Not SQ. If I spent $1500 on an amp I would have already convinced myself it would sound better than the $200 amp it replaced before I even listened to it, therefore it would sound better to me because I just spent all that money. The mind is a very powerful tool. Phychoacoustics. Edit to add if it sounds better to me, that's the goal. So if in the end I am happy then I win.

I see your pony and raise you a BULL

Picked this up off of Craigslist, turned out it was a guy I went to school with. I will be putting it in my GF's jeep powering my old ID ctx65cs components. Also bought her a reconed SA 8. I put a "dove" logo on it, she has a similar tattoo. It will be replacing (2) old Infinity reference 12's she bought awhile ago. build log coming soon...

x2. Specify your goals, what are you planning on running and charging in your vehicle? And then you turn around and say you may sell your truck soon. wtf. I recommend DC Power for an alt, that is if you decide to get one because you actually need it... Edit: what year f150? I tried a couple different year f150s for your engine on DC Power's site, and they make them

Your going to have to run the AA's active and it does not sound like you have any experience with that. Why not install the Hertz real proper like and call it a day? A good install is not going to be cheap and it's never a bad idea to have money left over so you can buy me something too. lol

"crossed at" is the same as saying the filter is set to xxx. A Low pass filter attenuates frequencies above the set frequency. So setting your LPF at 80hz would lower the signal of midbass and highs being sent to the subwoofer. It's not a cutoff but a slope (hence the reason you hear 12db slope, 24db slope etc)

look what i got in the mail today! I will be wearing this tomorrow at work! and an action shot of me with my shirt and my 15inch NS v1

Just sell the SA-12's and find out how much space you have for 15"s and throw all SA-15's in there, I woudnt mix two different sub sizes. Or you can just buy more SA-12's and build a bigger box for all the 12"s.

You don't hear amps SQ. An amp is an amp unless its a piece of shit

Have fun

If you want to do it the best way, a triple bracket with either 2, 270XP's or 2, 390XP's plus a stock output alt in the stock location. Run the 2 390XP's isolated from your stock electrical because your 'Lade has the stock RVC system which is just FAIL for guys like you so it's best to just go around it. One of our 270XP's will run a 4500 pretty dang good, one 390 @ 15v continuous will handle 6K no problem which is what a 4500 @15v is about capable of.. One 270XP will handle a 3500 @ .5 all day long, and depending on how hard your on it, you'll cook an amp LONG before you ever need to worry about the alt. One 270XP will run a 4500 at .5 about 8/10 of wide open with no drop.. One 390XP will run a 4500 at .5 wide open with no drop whatsoever and again, you'll cook an amp long before the alt gives up.. Either way you go, it will be better than ANY other setup you can get.. Kyle has a 3500 he ran at.5 in his Camry on a 270XP and we've done hours and hours and hours of testing with it so we're very familiar with them.. In all the testing we did though, we could never run the amp long enough to over work the alternator before either the amp or subs got too hot and we had to back off...

Great article, Duran! Thanks for the read. I guess there really isn't anything wrong with CCA if you simply don't have the money. But that also gives rise to my opinion that if you simply can't afford the cable, you can't afford the system you intend to install. But, for those of use with bigger dreams than wallets, I would advise that you get yourself at least 1 size up from the standard cable required for the system. I considered using the 1/0 CCA from Knukonceptz, as my system really only needs 4Ga to run it, but instead I opted to use their 1/0 Kolossus Fleks cable. I figured I might wind up upgrading my sub stage to a ShivaX or 2, and it would be nice to have sufficient cable already installed. When I really thought about it I concluded that I just didn't see any reason to cheap out on the cable, after all it should outlast the vehicle it is installed in... so why be cheap about it? Seriously, if you can't afford $100 for a 1/0 pure copper cable, you shouldn't be running a system that demands 250-300 amps of supply side current.