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I've answered his questions 4 or 5 times via email now..and he keeps coming back with the same question of "I do not want to blow my coil".. I keep giving him the same answer as well.. If you blow it, it is because you did something wrong...I can't guarantee that you won't blow a speaker. Speakers are stupid, they only do what you tell them to do in the environment that you put them in. If you've blown stuff before..and put one of our speakers in that same scenario, odds are you are going to have issues. It is trying to tell you something is wrong.

Don't think you can do it without a relay, but here is a easy video to follow to do it with a relay.

I don't know about that one. The manual that came with my warhorse calls for eight, 800CCA batteries and two 200amp alts. That's only for 10K watts. I've spoken with Chris at Missing Link Audio, he told me you need about 3 to 4 batteries per HO alt. I'm not sure on the math to calculate how much battery you need for alternators. One thing I do know is that Hummer that Chris has is plenty effing loud. I've experienced it in person. If he says that's what it takes who am I to argue. Since when does alternators need multiply batteries to make power? A HO alternator will charge 1 battery the same as 4. So I'm not sure why he said its a NEED to have multiple per alt. Only thing I can think of is, he meant 3-4 is ideal to get the most out of the setup. Also, just because he is loud doesn't mean you can't argue with what he says. I'm not talking about his affiliation with MLA. But just based on someone owning a loud vehicle, doesn't mean they will give out wrong info. Even though I'm not saying he is wrong. Just saying in general. Take Alan Dante, at one point he had the loudest car. If he told you the loud way to get loud is to buy a stetsom amp, would you agree? Of course not.

Fs won't play that big a part in the sub bass game either Its amazing when people only look at two specs of a subwoofer and automatically assume one thing or another. I like the 1w/1m though. No BS rating FTW.

From Fatmat: An important consideration in the sound dampening of automobiles, boats, homes, computers and buildings is of course selecting the correct products that will be most effective in your application. Here you find the product that started it all for us, FatMat. Our 50 mil nominal rubberized compound is covered with a shiny protective aluminum top as well as a waxed paper release bottom it's exactly what your looking for in order to stop those nasty rattles, eliminate road and outside noise, insulate your vehicle and dramatically improve the sound of your car audio stereo system. So it's not asphalt, just saying. Rubberized compound compound is a euphemism used to mislead: Coated or treated with rubber Rubber compounds are added to all products like these to stabilize the asphalt. These compounds break down quite quickly which is one of the most common reasons for failure. If you don't have the balls to admit that you're selling asphalt, you misdirect. You can sprinkle sugar on feces and say it contains sugar - which they did, but you can't say it doesn't contain shit - which you did.

Reactive loads is what makes it REAL power. Resistive loads don't prove anything, you don't listen to resistors, and it's called impedance because it changes. You don't have x ohms all the time. If it's rated for 1 ohm, you may never go below 1.6 during play, that 1 ohm power isn't what you're getting. Please tell me you don't look at THD spec on an amp to compare them. There is no standard for THD measurement. Distortion could vary at a given frequency, voltage, anything. Beyond that, do you have any idea how distorted subs are to start with? I'd be willing to bet up to 10% distortion, the ear can't differentiate. Distortion will increase power on a meter, fully clipping however will show LESS power. CEA-2006 is a joke. An amp could be rated at 1000 watts @ 14.4v @ 1 ohm under that system, but in a car it will get something like 650 watts in a car. Why? Because you don't have 14.4v, you have 12.6v, and then you have impedance rise. You don't have any of the conditions the amp is rated at. Is there a distortion standard? What equipment is being used to measure that distortion? Is that equipment equally calibrated to each other? What frequency is it tested at and is it tested the same way for every amp? Is the same output level being used to check that? Are all those same standards used to get the power rating? Your same reasons for "real world" numbers not being accurate also apply to every manufacturer rating their amp, even in a "standard of measurement". Yes, real world DOES mean it's accurate and useful. In THAT vehicle with THOSE conditions it did THAT number. Will you have those exact conditions? Maybe, maybe not, but at least you get an idea of what it's capable of in a vehicle and not on a bench with a resistor. The only way a test isnt properly conducted is if you fail at basic math and can't multiply 2 numbers. Can those conditions be recreated? Sure, that same vehicle has the same conditions, if you test one against another, you have accurate results. You've used the same scenario with the same test equipment. Bottom line is anybody who is concerned with actual output probably has their aim at SPL, where distortion doesn't matter. Power is power, it does it or it doesn't, and an SPL meter doesn't discriminate. If 1 amp does more power than another amp, odds are, SPL went up. The testing you want will never be done, because every manufacturer would have to use the same test equipment, calibrated before every use, under standards that would only be adhered to by honest people.

look into some skar 12s if you did 4 of them on 2500 watts it would be perfect

In any other business transaction (1800woofers.com, etc etc) I would normally refund a customer first - In this situation the amp worked, tested working, and even have a PM from you saying it worked. Due to the area of uncertainty - I cannot simply just issue a refund incase you did in fact blow it, and it wasn't the shipping companies, fault - etc. On a side note - I just got the amp back from UPS, and will be in touch with the lady who gave me her numbers in the claims dept. tomorrow - This should all be resolved tomorrow and at rest. I will keep you updated