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^ It's this Bro

2001 VW Lupo GTI. Kit list, Alpine 7998R (Old Skool Gem!) SPL Dynamics ICE-150.4 (Running mids/tweets active) 4x Ascendant Audio 7" carbon fibre Neo Mids 4x Ascendant Audio 1" tweets 2x SPL Dynamics ICE-3500D (1 per sub) 2x Ascendant Audio Mayhem 18" subs 3x XS Power D3100 Batteries 1x 180A Alt Fitted KW Variant 1s already and will be doing a complete retrim and new seats in this one.

A lot of music I've downloaded from various dub artists for free, or from http://rcrdlbl.com/ all legal

(whisper) ....most torrented albums are 320kbps.......... If you're interested in Dubstep by any chance, I highly recommend Dub-Level.com Killer dubstep uploaded daily!

^ It's this Bro Either way, between you and me, fuck the smd forum I got everything I need right here

email [email protected] and ask his advice. getting rid of rattles takes more attention than a couple layers of deadener. i treated my whole truck with all his products for under 700 shipped.

I don't like double negatives. I would suggest not taking someones word over Scott's word as no one knows those drivers better then him, especially when that other person is trying to sell you something.

This is where we are tempted to respond with "Great! Then keep yourself on those forums that way you're their problem and not ours". I don't see where that question was ever asked. I see random thoughts from the mind of Kryptonite, a question about spiders, then some quotes from Scott @ Evo & Scott @ Fi, followed by your complaining about being broke.....and then finished it off with probably the truest statement your fingers have ever typed. I don't see a question about gap sizes or motor comparisons. So, despite the thread title, the only question I see that you actually posed was in regards to spiders, not motors. You posted some quotes from a discussion about motors, but you didn't actually post a question relating to the motors. You asked a question about spiders. To answer your question with a question.......what in the hell is it that you actually want to know. You ask a question about spiders, but want answers about motors? It sounds like you want someone to design an entire subwoofer for you that will hold up to your abuse. The simple answer is; stop abusing shit. You shouldn't need to stupid-proof the subwoofer. There are obviously larger issues involved which are not related to the subwoofers, the subwoofers are just the victim. But from all of your previous threads it seems you have a sense that you already know everything you need to know about achieving your goals. So you should be able to figure this one out on your own, since most of our suggestions will fall on deaf ears anyways. You complain about our responses; think about your questions, posts and threads.....maybe it'll become a little more clear as to why our responses are what they are. You ask for advice, don't take it and get pissed off, then come back complaining when shit breaks. We give more advice, you don't take it and complain that we're being pricks, you break more shit and then come back complaining about it....and the cycle repeats again. You should realize by now the problem lies with you; not us.

No its not

Making up panels for the front wall Mocking up lower panel Making an outer frame to dress the wall Little more work on the lower section Rounded and smoothed off All done, cept need some lighting SMD LED tape. Should provide a nice glow.

Wired up the amps.. Got some lighting going too.. More or less completed here, just the panels left to install/trim. Moving back to the wall. Piece of large acrylic for the front face Using template from the front wall Test fitted. Time to paint the port, first up 2 coats of MDF primer Followed by 2 coats of black gloss. Thin skim of instant grab adhesive.. before applying the panel ontop... And on the front face.. Few screws to help it which are removed following day.. masked up ready for panel work next..

Working on getting the batteries in... Using 8mm thick copper bar (60mm wide) Earth bar installed, with 2 runs of 1/0 earth. Lower part of the box is screwed down, but for extra safety using some 45s to anchor it down some more.. Same on the top and other side. Finishing off the panel for the battery cover.. Almost there with the panel. +12v bus bar installed. Next up installing a Bosch 180A Alternator. Engine had to dropped about 15mm for me to remove the lower bolt, so undone the engine mount bolts on the top side of the engine lowering the block slowly till I could extract the offending bolt. Once removed you can see the old alt is quite a bit smaller, its a 70A unit. Installed the new unit which was extremely tight getting inside the bay but got in there albiet with a couple of grazed knuckles! Inline fuse installed and secured safely out of harms reach.

Adding some initial pieces to help form the shape Few more Starting with this then applying bridge filler Right about now camera has gone tits up. Its an old Ixus 75 which spent most of its life in a pile of dust or next to a dozen subs, so it was no suprised it went grey eyes lol Fine filler Couple of skils at a time over the bridge then sanded Repeated till the panel was close to how we need Like so Next to work on something to hide the wires on the floating ICE-150.4 Camera flash not working, sorry!! couple of pics time I use my other Ixus 90IS... Starting with this.. 3 End up with this.. Adding some dowel pieces to make things flow End caps and other accent pieces on the install getting painted 2 pack gloss black as you'll see later on.

Making the battery box which is ever so tight. Secured to back of the wall with some 1" thick 45s, also on the sides in the same manner onto the floor piece which is 2" thick to avoid the weight of the batteries bowing the wood, around 100 kilos for just the 3 batteries! M24 stud bar.. Cut Test fitted... don't worry there are square washers inside and out coming as you will see later and slightly recessed lower nut to clear back of the battery case.. As you can tell theres no luxury when it comes to room. Sourced M24 dome nuts for the front.. not easy to come by! OK, so now to face the amps... After alot of head scratching and messing about with ideas.. figured best way to mount all three amps. 1st of the ICE-3500Ds to be mounted on a baffle mounted off the top of the back wall 2nd to of the ICE-3500Ds to be mounted on a bracket made from MDF The ICE-150.4 mounted off a bracket suspending it over the 2 amps.. Using M6 thread insets and machine button head screws Like so Everything getting a coat of black paint along the way.. Starting the panels for the battery cover Routed out hole Cut Quick round over Checked for position Amps installed Mock up for panels top and bottom And we leave it there. The panel will be removeable with the floating amp still in place, which can be removed in less than 5 seconds to access any fusing later on.

2 sets of AA Havoc Components (Active) Since Lupos don't have A pillar trim as such, chose the mirror covers as next best place for them. Not on axis but about 20 degrees off. They have a very balanced response and work well both on or off axis, but for this application feel this will give us best of both worlds when open door playing. Using my Resin mixing sticks are reinforcements with mitre bond Few holes in the plastic and keyed surface Bridge filled Fine filler before starting on the other side. Not easy to get them bang on perfect but with mitre bond you can offer rings up, measure measure measure.. before you commit to final position Same procedure, using the mixing sticks (much like jumbo sized lolly pop sticks) Still utilising all OEM fixing points. More or less complete, needing final 240 grit rub down. After offering them up the tweeters ended up being deep and thus not clearing the doors body work, so another 5mm ring added and moulded. This is at 120 grit before finishing till there 240 grit. Sorry not got every pic on this build, my camera goes dulally as you'll see later! Next up the mids. Came across these door builds whilst looking at another build in the SQ section. Didn't feel like cutting corners but they had the look and position I wanted so went ahead and ordered them. Took 2 weeks to come from Germany. Made entirely of fibreglass with gel coat outer layer. Took few goes to make them fit till I was happy. So with our Lupo having electric windows there no need for the indentation for the window winder Couple of holes for better bite Bridge filler Before finishing with body filler. To remove some of the brittleness and add mass/weight for better midbass/midrange response the back side will have 2mm deadening mat, foam pad much like SS rattle pad.

Time for some seam reinforcements. 400gsm cut to desired lengths. Double layer on main seams And over arch moulds The little bubble is old seat bracket which I didn't chop out, incase wall is removed.. though doubtful! 2 coats of resin. 2 hour break between coats. No glass on any other seams other than joining ones. Bolts, washers and nuts for terminals 1 side done. Other side. Just see the expandy to the left in this shot. As a side note, only used 2 cans for the entire build. Rear side labelled Both sides done. Next up PU glue brushed on edges for front baffle to go on. First baffle already on at this stage, preparing second baffle. Marked... Holes drilled.. Glued to keep my bond tite Before penertrating screws there pilot holed then screwed in like so Other side. Done.

Port divider rounded Both halfs Glued and screwed Internal port rounded Offered up to the top section of the enclosure Glued and screwed. Bridge filler also used on all joins. Not to act as a seal but add ever so slight taper than a cold straight join. All offered up, and needing some tweeks to fit All metal masked up to avoid resin or expanding foam making permanant contact with surfaces. Top section rested into the place with PU glue, and left to set over night. Bridge filler used on seams. Expandy foam used to fill the arch mould, twice and trimmed back and sanded for smooth form then skimmed with bridge filler. Next up another layer off 1" MDF on the rear of the enclosure. Maybe its over kill, but couple of screw holes drilled. Relief cuts to allow bend with the top section of the enclosure Glue spread Screwed in place. Batteries dropped in to check for clearances and room. Fitting the amps in a tiny amount of space is looking more bleak even with me going over dimensions several times. Edges where the box meets the metal was all masked up, and expandy foamed. The top of the box used 2 of the sub cutouts PU glued to the top of the box, then from top of the metal skin to the top of the cutout was expandy foamed. Foamed down the sides, also masked. Physically this could be removed from the car with probably no sign it ever had a wall. But the way its come out I doubt it will ever be anything but a walled Lupo.

Front face offered up Couple of 45s added Quick guide made to run router through for clean opening Run Same with second baffle (2" baffle) Marking up for cutouts. 4 passes. Cutout out Offered up again to check if the subs fire right at the back of your head for the soon to be punishment! Ovolo on inner side cutout 1 side 2nd sides And cos we can on the outside.

Floor section cut and after set level with few supports begin with the rest. Sides cut. Glued and screwed Lower section primered Then matt black incase when the sun shines through the limo tint there is no ugly bare MDF. Top section glued and screwed and dry fitted to check everythings square Piece 1 of the front baffle offered up and checked for square Pencil line drawn then chopped. Lower section moved into the car, not easy! Working on the port for the top section to be added later.

All the wood for the enclosure, cut via CNC machine. There's two of most panels as spares incase of any alterations being required. 25mm MDF. Measure twice, cut once.. Well thats the idea. Everything gets drawn up and tweaked. Idea is make things go little easier when you work on your own.

Next up the roof. After mulling over this excuse for OEM deadning I conceeded that it had to go. Stuck on with a PU Flex or Tiger Seal substrate. Not coming off, so I guess we'll deaden over that one Done. Front area got another layer. No MDF roof. Never done it in any of my builds infront of the B-pillar so we remain Street class Legal. There is some foam to roof action behind the B-pillar as you'll see later on. Few random shots of the cable runs.. RCAs down the center with some REM and +12v / -ve sense wiresfor accesorries and gauges, speaker wires on the outside edges and power wire along passanger side and utilising panel gaps to keep it flat under underlay and carpet.

Totally standard in here. Feeding through Kolossus Flex 1/0 power cable. Hard to spot after being covered in copex. Just see it here. Note, the 1.6 16V GTI models have the battery in the boot, no need to run extra ground off the alt (neg field) as it already has one, though we will to TB3 under here too without the battery link. 1/0 going straight to new alt later with inline fuse. Next up to deaden the doors. Silent Coat Extra. Compared to Second Skin D amp Pro Wires ran for speakers. 1 door done. Both doors done.

I vote that he keeps NEWBIE status for good since he asked... lol

Aw shit. You done started another one of these.... Pick whichever one you want. Pick one cuz one's cheaper, or cuz one's prettier, it doesn't matter. Pick whatever you like because the do the exact same thing. People will come in here and say "well Sundown's underrated and will actually do more" and that's true (to a certain extent. Don't get the SAZ-1500d and expect 2000 watts. It's a 1500 watt amp, it'll do a little extra. You will never notice the extra, or be be able to measure it.) but Audioque is "underrated" as well but like I said, don't get a AQ1200d and expect 1500 watts. It's not a 1500 watt amp. Sundown is more expensive. People will come in here and say it's because "you can pick up the phone and talk to the owner" or "awesome customer service costs money" but those aren't the real reason. Sundown is a dealer brand. They sell to dealers who sell to you. That equals more markup. Audioque has no dealers, they sell factory direct. That equals NO markup so they can sell for waaaaayyy cheaper. With Sundown, you have to be careful and buy from Authorized Dealers or you won't get a warranty. Audioque can only be bought straight from the source, so that's not a problem. People will come in and say Sundown is built better, but...really? As long as you take care of either one it will pretty much last as long as you need it to so don't worry about that. So if they do the same thing, both are underrated, and both last why buy Sundown? You pay for the dealer's rent, the extra engineering, and the super reliable name. (not that Audioque ISN'T reliable) That's all. If you want to pay extra for Sundown, do it. If you don't buy Audioque. Period. EDIT: What I'm really trying to say is...there's no Magic "Sundown sauce" that makes Sundown products better than any other. They're good. But Audioque is too lol. (And if it seems like I'm bashing Sundown, my SA-12's get lower than gas in a Trans-Am so yeah...lol)

Those things have been delayed like 4 times already. Where supposed to come out last August. Don't hold your breath for them. Off their website........ "Final ETA of new models (BC2000, BC3500 and BC5500) is on or right before mid March. Thanks for your patience"

This is where we are tempted to respond with "Great! Then keep yourself on those forums that way you're their problem and not ours". I don't see where that question was ever asked. I see random thoughts from the mind of Kryptonite, a question about spiders, then some quotes from Scott @ Evo & Scott @ Fi, followed by your complaining about being broke.....and then finished it off with probably the truest statement your fingers have ever typed. I don't see a question about gap sizes or motor comparisons. So, despite the thread title, the only question I see that you actually posed was in regards to spiders, not motors. You posted some quotes from a discussion about motors, but you didn't actually post a question relating to the motors. You asked a question about spiders. To answer your question with a question.......what in the hell is it that you actually want to know. You ask a question about spiders, but want answers about motors? It sounds like you want someone to design an entire subwoofer for you that will hold up to your abuse. The simple answer is; stop abusing shit. You shouldn't need to stupid-proof the subwoofer. There are obviously larger issues involved which are not related to the subwoofers, the subwoofers are just the victim. But from all of your previous threads it seems you have a sense that you already know everything you need to know about achieving your goals. So you should be able to figure this one out on your own, since most of our suggestions will fall on deaf ears anyways. You complain about our responses; think about your questions, posts and threads.....maybe it'll become a little more clear as to why our responses are what they are. You ask for advice, don't take it and get pissed off, then come back complaining when shit breaks. We give more advice, you don't take it and complain that we're being pricks, you break more shit and then come back complaining about it....and the cycle repeats again. You should realize by now the problem lies with you; not us. I am very open minded, got nothin against nobody, but I am sorry you like it in the butt